Battery Location Mock Up. What do you think?

When I installed my 2nd battery, I left the first one in the stock location and had a mount made for the 2nd that actually bolts to the firewall inside the cab directly behind the original battery location. Work pretty well. It's up out of the way and you don't have super long battery cables...

 

I'm not sure the gas tank under the driver seat was one of the factories best ideas and I doubt they really considered the balance issue unless the figured the opposing tool box would would be loaded and create the balance. Duffers battery box is what I was thinking of. I think it's nicely done and no loss of cargo space, easily accessible, etc.

 

OrangeCJ5... That's a good idea, it just doesn't fit with the goal of lowering the COG and keeping heavy stuff from hanging on the body instead of the frame. There is a lot of room in that corner though so I will do some measuring and see how it looks. Do you have a heater in that area?? I'm looking at the summit heater for up in that area too.

Duffie, I finally got a look at your pics and that is a nice setup you have there. I wish there was room for two that way, but if I don't try to keep them together, that is sweet. That whole rig is sweet. Do you have any problems with that exhaust getting crushed?? Mine had the exhaust ran similar and I'm thinking of trying to run it inside the frame now.

Wheelie, you are right about that tank not being a good idea. As far as balance goes, I can always load tools and other heavier stuff on the other side in the cargo bed.

I may end up flipping a coin.

thanks again for all the input.

 

Nope-these are pretty stout

 

I guess I am sceptible that there would be a discernable "weight" advantage to putting batteries down that low; especially when you take into account the list of possible problems of tearing them up down there. For that matter, if weight of batteries were a concern, so would putting rull roll cages on a jeep.

If you are worried about center of gravity, ride height and tract width play the most important roll I would think. From your pics, if you are going with the suspension shown, you would'nt have any problems with center of gravity anyway. It looks to be close to stock.

Something to think about is the M38A1 army jeep. They had 24v systems with 2 batteries. The second battery was on the passenger side under the cowl. It had a door/cover on the outside and box setup to get to it. You can buy the door and box repo and it would fit the contour of a cj5 or 7

 

If I remember right, there are a couple of crossmembers that run vertically on the firewall and the 2nd battery mount goes through those so it's not hanging directly off the sheetmetal. I can get a couple pics if you'd like.
I do have a heater in there, it's not the stock one but it all fits pretty well. I have no idea where the heater in my Jeep came from though.
My battery is probably pretty close to the M38A1 location, you just access it from under the dash and not the cowl.

 

Duffer, I like the way you think. I was trying to dream up some rockers that would allow enough airflow to keep from melting my seat. I was thinking along the lines of expanded metal over the framework that will tie the cage to the frame. Thanks for the pics.

MD, I feel that ground clearance and COG are the "immovable object and unstoppable force" when it comes to wheelin. One changes the other and trade offs and compromises have to be made. I'm just dreaming on my project and doing everything I can to maximize both. I apreciate your comments. Thanks for the tip on the access cover. FWIW, the suspension is a SOA with YJ 5 leaf springs front and rear.

CJ, My firewall was pretty chewed up by the PO and may end up being replaced or fabbed completely different so that area is a good option. I'm thinking of going new to clean up the way he made room for the distributor, plus I'm going with swinging pedals. It looks like he chewed some of the holes so I may be better off starting fresh. Heres a pic although its not real good.

 

Going with the lower CG theme, have you considered deleting the toolbox under the passenger seat and placing the batteries in that area. Still make a battery box/mount that attaches to the frame, but uses the factory toolbox lid as the access point. By mounting them in this area you would not have to mount them as low since you can use the depth of the factory toolbox before going below the original body. Just my two pennies.

 

I wish that area would work, but between the rollcage bars going under the seats and the transfer case being right below that area, I'm not going to be able to put much there. Plus to get to change them, I'd have to remove the cage.

I think I've decided to go ahead with my original idea. The pics were of the rough mock up and after playing around with them a little more, it looks like I can raise them a couple of inches which will give more space between the batteries and the skid plate that will run pretty much even with the transfer case crossmember.

I'll let you guys know if this turns out to be one of those "great ideas that didn't work".

Duffers exhaust pics have also convinced me to go outside the frame rails with my exhaust. I'm looking into the 4" round mufflers that speedway sells, and then fabbing rockers from the bottom of the frame out past the exhaust, then angling toward the bottom of the body with another bend angling them up the body. I just need to find some metal that will have the holes in it for the under the exhaust part. More to follow.

Well, it's almost 9 in the morning so I can go make some noise. Got some more grinding and cutting to do today.

 

IMHO, there is no need to reinvent the wheel. There is plenty of room under a CJ's hood for dual batteries, or a single large battery. The wire runs to the starter and other accessories are shorter, reducing voltage drop and reducing the need for large cables. Its well protected under the hood, and safe from mud and water. Plus its easier to service up under the hood.

 

Actually, batteries under the floor were/are not uncommon-GMC/Chevy pickups and trucks had them under the passenger side floor for decades-without much protection. I have an FWD and 53 Dodge that are also under-floor batteries.

Granted, CJ5/6 have way more under-hood space than any of the flatties, but depending on what else you put under there, it can get tight. On the 3B, there was absolutely no way it would still fit after the sbc conversion/larger radiator/PS and I had a box bolted in the bed for a year or so-just plain PITA, not to mention being a big "steal me" sign. I did consider the weight distribution issue but it would not fit on the right side so, as in all vehicles, a another compromise was made. At least a lot of the weight is not on the front axle. I made my box out of 1/8 plate which should stand a good bump but you would almost need to air drop the Willys on something to hit it. The winch gear box and York are both on the right side and I load all the tools on that side also-have never noted any adverse effects. That said, I would really like to get it on a set of wheel scales sometime.

 

Your right i didn't think about a flatty with a v8 but with a stockish cj it will fit.

 

I agree that it "will fit", but when I got this thing tore down to the frame, I started trying to think outside the box a little bit. I don't touch the batteries i have under a hood but about once a year if that, and i can still do that with these. As far as wires go, it's not that far from one end to the other of a CJ5 so I'm not too worried about volt drop, plus I'm going to run a battery isolater anyway, so it wouldn't run straight from the batt to the starter anyway.

I'm not trying to disagree with ya here, just giving my thoughts on how I got to this point. The good thing is....if it turns out to be a bad idea, I get to do more grinding and welding and fabricating. I bought this thing to be a project so i'll end up tearing it apart more than once.

I got all the measurements last night for the skid plates and box, so now I'm scrounging metal. Anybody got a hint on some of that holey stuff duffer made is rockers out of???

 

Sounds like you have a good plan but you should rethink your isolator. They only allow charging current from the alternator to be "split" to both batteries. One battery ends up being overcharged and the other undercharged. A better system is to have a relay that combines both batteries into in essence a single large battery for charging when the jeep is running. This alows the batteries to properly charged by the alternator. The batteries can emergency combined to jump one another. I run a similar setup on my sailboat. I have one large battery to run all the lights,fans,nav equipment and second smaller battery that is ONLY used to start the engine. With an crossover switch to combine them when charging and in emergencies. A similar setup for a jeep would seem ideal to me. You can run winches and accessories without worry of running the starting battery down.

This would be an ideal relay 300A and 1000A for 10s
http://bluesea.com/category/2/productline/overview/435

 

Thanks for the advice on the electrical setup. I want to do what you are talking about but didn't know what to call it or how to do it. That marine setup looks sweet. I'll be doing searches on electrical and will take all the advice anyone wants to give.

I've mentioned earlier what I want to call my "battery control center" which i envision being a lockable ammo can or something with all that sort of "stuff" in it with a master disconnect switch in it. I will be running a winch, lights, power pack with air compressor and who knows, maybe the wife will need her hair dryer, so I'll probably overbuild this too.

I really apreciate all the ideas.

 

Here are a few more items that could be useful

http://order.waytekwire.com/category2/M50/75/Battery Management Products/

 

For what it's worth, 2 Optima will fit in the original battery location. I've had this set up for 10 years now without a problem.

 

1/4" 6061 aluminum plate. You can use a hole saw for those holes but they will load up which is a pain in the rear. I tried a few that way before just bolting the stuff to the mill table and drilling them-makes for a lot more chips but is much faster and doesn't require as much for layout-just used the feed screws for position. Welded with a spool gun on MIG. That was my first experience welding aluminum and some runs weren't the best. However, after a little experience, the stuff is really fun to weld.

 

What is wrong with making a box and mounting them here(yes I jacked your photo to prove my point).


A steel box mounted directly over the pig you would avoid any thing hitting anything. You could run your exhaust on both sides you would have to make a box that would drop down or slide up.

Not perfect but it would lower your cg without creating any issues of hitting anything.