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Gas tank options in an early CJ5?

Discussion in 'Early CJ5 and CJ6 Tech' started by CJ5-GCR, Oct 21, 2010.

  1. Oct 21, 2010
    CJ5-GCR

    CJ5-GCR New Member

    Culver City, CA
    Joined:
    Sep 5, 2010
    Messages:
    46
    So I am getting my trans and t-case back in my rig. Now I am looking at more fuel capacity.
    I see people install the 15 and 20 gal tanks all the time. I am not thrilled about cutting my jeep in the butt end. I also don't really want to cut my frame braces(tow braces?) out.

    I think if I leave the 10 gal under my seat and put another 10 back there I would be fine.

    Anyone have a more custom fuel tank cell setup I could see?

    thanks
    george
     
    CJ5-GCR, Oct 21, 2010
    #1
  2. Oct 21, 2010
    napaguy

    napaguy Banned

    goldendale wa
    Joined:
    Sep 25, 2009
    Messages:
    441
    Some people have removed the toolbox and put another tank there.
     
    napaguy, Oct 21, 2010
    #2
  3. Oct 21, 2010
    Long&Low

    Long&Low Active Member

    Geauga County, OH
    Joined:
    Dec 13, 2009
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    1,212
    Seen one guy make a full across tank using that same idea, was pretty slick.
     
    Long&Low, Oct 21, 2010
    #3
  4. Oct 21, 2010
    mikesgoat

    mikesgoat Member

    Fresno
    Joined:
    Jul 23, 2010
    Messages:
    92
    ol' mailbox truck fuel tank under the bed. good fit.
     
    mikesgoat, Oct 21, 2010
    #4
  5. Oct 21, 2010
    mb82

    mb82 I feel great!

    Charlottesville Va
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    Mar 17, 2003
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    2,706
    He does not want to remove the braces that run under the bed.
     
    mb82, Oct 21, 2010
    #5
  6. Oct 21, 2010
    Mcruff

    Mcruff Earlycj5 Machinist

    Albertville, AL
    Joined:
    Sep 22, 2002
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    5,349
    Well if you think it will weaken your jeep, no it won't, the 70 and 71 models with a rear tank from the factory never had those braces and my towbar still works fine. My factory 1971 Jeep tank is a rear mounted 15 gallon. I have a simple hole in the rear on the passenger side with a rubber grommet around the filler neck. If you are trying to keep it original for that sake then fine but don't think your hacking your jeep up if unless its a true restoration.
     
    Mcruff, Oct 21, 2010
    #6
  7. Oct 21, 2010
    Patrick

    Patrick Super Moderator Staff Member

    Los Alamos, NM
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    Sep 22, 2002
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    They did have braces on the ends of the draw bar though that went up to the frame rails. Not sure how well you can see them here.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
    Patrick, Oct 21, 2010
    #7
  8. Oct 22, 2010
    dvw86

    dvw86 Member

    Eastern Washington
    Joined:
    Sep 23, 2007
    Messages:
    191
    I'm in the process of adding one under the passenger seat in place of the toolbox. I had to make new seat mounts anyways since I am installing post-76 seats. Figure I may as well make both modifications at the same time. I'm using a fuel selector switch from NAPA (made as a replacement Chevy switch) and a switching solenoid from JCWhitney.
     
    dvw86, Oct 22, 2010
    #8
  9. Oct 22, 2010
    Boyink

    Boyink Super Moderator Staff Member

    Tulsa, OK
    Joined:
    Sep 20, 2002
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    6,197
    Just the drawbar braces need to go - and you don't use the Jeep (I'm guessing) in the agricultural fashion those were designed for...;)

    Put a late model 15 gallon tank in the rear, it'll ride better, you'll get underseat storage, and no stinky interior when the underseat tank leaks.

    http://boyink.com/cj6/gas-tank-installing-rear/
     
    Boyink, Oct 22, 2010
    #9
  10. Oct 22, 2010
    bkd

    bkd Moderator Supreme Staff Member 2022 Sponsor

    K-Town Tenn.
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    Apr 29, 2007
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    3,294
    I agree 100%.....exactly what I did after seeing Mike's setup
    Jim
     
    bkd, Oct 22, 2010
    #10
  11. Oct 22, 2010
    Patrick

    Patrick Super Moderator Staff Member

    Los Alamos, NM
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    And then you can add the later style braces used with the rear tank, like on my'71 in the pics above. Or, am I missing something?
     
    Patrick, Oct 22, 2010
    #11
  12. Oct 22, 2010
    grannyscj

    grannyscj Headed to the Yukon

    Anchorage, AK
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    Dec 19, 2005
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    But it fits so nice. Nothing lost but some really thin channelled sheet metal. Bomb one way or another, it gets a really smelly tank out of the living space.

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
    grannyscj, Oct 22, 2010
    #12
  13. Oct 22, 2010
    Patrick

    Patrick Super Moderator Staff Member

    Los Alamos, NM
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    And the 3/16" thick 2" wide lower braces.
     
    Patrick, Oct 22, 2010
    #13
  14. Oct 22, 2010
    grannyscj

    grannyscj Headed to the Yukon

    Anchorage, AK
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    Sure can, but that leaves about 75 lbs of hitch on the back. I can think of a lot lighter ways to handle towing, farm machinery sure, but OW it's a boat anchor and should be dumped for a more modern lifestyle.:v6:
     
    grannyscj, Oct 22, 2010
    #14
  15. Oct 22, 2010
    Patrick

    Patrick Super Moderator Staff Member

    Los Alamos, NM
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    Like this? Problem for me is, I welded the bottom straps to my hitch and they still bolt to the crossmember like the originals.
    I'm considering swapping in the tank from my '71, but I have to have a sturdy hitch.
    :D
    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Oct 22, 2010
    Patrick, Oct 22, 2010
    #15
  16. Oct 22, 2010
    grannyscj

    grannyscj Headed to the Yukon

    Anchorage, AK
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    Why yes. My point exactly.:v6:
     
    grannyscj, Oct 22, 2010
    #16
  17. Oct 22, 2010
    grannyscj

    grannyscj Headed to the Yukon

    Anchorage, AK
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    You can also just cut down on the length of the drawbar.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
    grannyscj, Oct 22, 2010
    #17
  18. Oct 23, 2010
    CJ5-GCR

    CJ5-GCR New Member

    Culver City, CA
    Joined:
    Sep 5, 2010
    Messages:
    46
    You're correct about this. I just haven't been keen on the hole I have to cut. BUT Patrick's filler doesn't look too offensive.

    I guess I'll take the "easy" route like everyone else ;)
     
    CJ5-GCR, Oct 23, 2010
    #18
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