Alternator Buick 225

My altenator is dead in my CJ (225 :v6. Fortunetly the battery was strong enough to get me home. Only showed 7.8 volts at the battery, and the HEI still ran. The battery was so weak the turn signals didn't even work.

Anyways, I currently have a Duralast DL7091 and went ahead and ordered the same. It has a separate voltage regulator on the wheel well, which still works. But I ordered a replacement anyways. After I ordered it I wondered if I should have upgraded to a higher amperage unit or one with a built in regulator.

I don’t run any accessories, yet.

Any thoughts/suggestions?

Altenator
Part Number: DL7091
Manufacturer: Motorola
Alternator Amperage: 55 A
Pulley: 1V
Regulator Plug Clocking: 12:00

Voltage Regulator
Part Number: VR787
Automotive Electrical Terminal Type: 3 Blade
Connector/Terminal Type: Female
Installation Hardware Included: None
Voltage Regulator Fitment Type: External
Wiring Harness Included: No Harness Required

 

I upgraed the alt. on the 225 in my Jeepster to a Delco 12si. The new alt. bolted directly to the factory mount. At this time I also upgrade my wiring to the starter solenoid and to the battery, it works like a charm and my headlights aren't as yellow as they were. Unless you are restoring to factory correct condition I see no reason not to upgrade.

 

All my Motorola units have gone straight to the trash can and I no longer even wait for them to fail. Delco are not only cheaper but they last a lot longer and you can get about any amp unit you want. The 10si 63 amp is a good version along with any of the 12 si. I like the internal regulators-just less wire.

 

Those work very well and stand up to a lot of dirt. I put them on all 6 of the tractors we currently use. On the two gas jobs (Farmall H and M) that still had mags, I used the one wire version. The Case diesels had 3 wire harness so used the normal versions on those.

 

Thanks for the input!!!

I ordered it through Autozone online. I wonder if I can just take it back to the local Autozone to do an exchange?

I am sure the added amperage will be beneficial if and when I add a winch.

Any particular part number I should look forat AA? Just a GM 12si case style?

 

Some good info here:

http://www.madelectrical.com/electricaltech/delcoremy.shtml

I'm cheap, so I'm running one of these:

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/d...1035188&forcedVehicle=true&pt=01468&ppt=C0330

I asked for a 1978 chevy camaro with a 350

 

Wow that is cheap!!!

The document is very helpful.....

 

Save your old alternator for a core. That has a 1 year warranty, I think they have one for $10 more that has a lifetime warranty.

 

With HEI, future TBI, and future winch........ Would a 94 amp altenator be beneficial over a 63 amp unit?

Not to mention the future winch....

Autozone Altenators and Part Numbers for 94 Amp units.

DL7294 $114.99

7294 $94.99

 

I would go for the 94 amp.

 

have your old alternator rebuilt?

I ran into a similar problem with the generator on my 1965. I ended up having a shop in town rebuild it for about $25.

 

Thanks all for the input!!!

I was able to call AutoZone.com and change my order. It was actually cheaper to go with the 94amp with the built in volt reg as opposed to buying the one I originally ordered with the separate volt reg.

Now I have to do some searches on the single wire alternator "mod".

Thanks!!!

 

You're on the right track! I will be installing a 94 amp 12si soon. I will also replace the entire wiring harness at the same time. Make sure you have critical circuits fused. You should really have a relay for your headlights. That extra current may compromise some weak spots in the original harness. If you have an ammeter, make sure it's capable of the higher current capacity, or better yet, just install a voltmeter.

 

More good stuff here:

http://www.madelectrical.com/electrical-tech.shtml

 

The previous owner installed a GM harness from another donor vehicle. It looks good but I will need to verify the relay on the headlights. There is only one relay in the entire system and I think that is for the headlights.

After reading some of Madelectrical.com I think I will go 3 wire setup but just not install the warning light.

Still lots of reading to do.

 

I'd go ahead wire it up for the alternator light in the instrument cluster, otherwise you might need to add a diode to get the motor to shut down. It's also a good indicator of whether the alternator is charging, or if you throw the fan belt.

 

I think I got it...

94A 12SI and I will do the three wire so I can do the "down stream" voltage monitoring... and a warning light for the dash, which is not currently present. This will give plenty of "room" for accessory lights, electric fan, winch, and other stuff.


Thanks everyone!!!


Batt (Red AWG #10 or #8 wire going to insulated terminal at rear of alternator) This terminal is for the alternator output to the battery. On Land Rovers equipped with an ammeter this lead goes directly to the ammeter POS terminal. The ammeter NEG side goes to the battery positive terminal, usually by being connected to the starter switch or relay. A 10 gauge wire will work for all the 10-SI alternators and the low to mid amp 12-SI alternators. The high amp 12-SI should get a AWG #8 wire. You should install a fusible wire link in this wire in case of an accidental short to keep the shorted wire connected directly to the battery from starting a fire. The fusible link should be placed near the battery.

1 "Excite" (White AWG # 14 or #16 wire on white molex plug) This wire provides the start up voltage for the alternator. The "1" alternator terminal is fed by a switched 12V source from the ignition switch through a lamp ("idiot light") and is used to supply the magnetic field inside the alternator with the voltage needed to operate. The alternator can not start charging until there is a voltage on the field winding and a magnetic force is created.

The “idiot” light is there to act as a visual indicator of under voltage and over voltage conditions at the battery. When the engine is running, if the idiot light is on, the output voltage of the alternator is out of specification.

2 "Sense" (Red AWG #10 or #12 wire on white molex plug) The 'Sense' wire checks the voltage output level of the alternator. This is the reference voltage that the alternator uses to determine how much power to put out. If the sensed voltage gets higher than the regulator is adjusted for, the regulator causes the alternator to momentarily stop charging until the sensed voltage drops down to a specified amount, then the alternator resumes charging. The regulator basically turns the alternator on and off fast enough to keep the output voltage within a specified voltage range.

The Number two "sense" terminal is often connected to the BATT. terminal at the back of the alternator. This is the simplest connection and the least desirable since it is measuring the alternator output and not the voltage at the load connections. Any voltage drop due to loose, dirty or corroded connections and internal resistance of the wires and components is not accounted for and the voltage at the circuit loads may be lower than it should be. The voltage is best sampled in the interior of the vehicle after the fuse block load, where all the electrical current load of the vehicle is. The 'Sample' would better sense a voltage drain and and the alternator would correct for it.


Gnd (Black AWG #10 or #8 wire going to screw on back case of alternator) When most people convert to a SI Series Delco alternator they leave off the ground wire and rely upon the alternator mounting bolts, engine block and engine to ground strap for an alternator return path. This works just fine most of the time as long as the mounting bolts are making a good electrical connection. Sometimes the ground connection may not be all that good or it may get worse over time. This higher resistance connection keeps the alternator from generating its full rated amperage. An AWG #10 or #8 gauge wire between the alternator ground connection and a good frame ground assures a good pathway for the alternator. This wire should have a fusible link in case your engine to frame ground strap fails and tries to route all the starter current through the alternator ground wire.

SOURCE: http://www.expeditionlandrover.info/Delco_Alternators.html

 

Just upgraded mine to that one yesterday. Call your local store, web site said my store didn't have it in stock, but they had 2 on the shelf.