60 CJ5 w/SBC build pics for the curious.

While I was introducing myself under the rookie section some members where wanting to see pics of the project im working on.

For those that want to know what im up to, I have a 1960 CJ5 that I pulled the F134 out of and stuck a 385 cu" SBC into it. I mounted a th350 behind it and the stock D18. Im going to run the stock axles till I find out what works and does not work. With months of brain storming I was able to get a radiator into it and get the steering to work which was harder then I ever expected it to be. Below is some pics I took along the way to get an idea of what im up to.

Im up for any future advice from anyone that has done this in the past of lessons they learned.

 

off to a nice start...

 

Did you move the engine forward or are you running the long Chevy water pump? I had a 64 CJ-6 that I put a 283 in and I had more room up front for the stock fan. I used a 4 row Ford Torino cross flow radiator (don't know if you can still get those). I remember moving the engine and trans over to the passengers' side 1 1/2". That gave more room between the engine block and Ross steering box. Of course you're running an auto tranny so that may be different.

 

Looks nice. It's a lot of work, a lot of fun and when you run it around it will be well worth it. You will need to upgrade the brakes, ask me how I knowR). Keep it up.

 

Here is an idea for the cooling fans.

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Nice work. You should be proud.

Extreem

 

Thanks guys,
Patrick- The Ross Pitman arm would have hit the filter so I had to relocate it. I mounted the filter on the cross member between the parking brake cable mount and the frame rail, I also installed 90deg fittings off the motor to keep the hoses out of the pitman arm and drag link, I think it should work nice.
80cj- I have believe/certian I have the short pump on it; the pump was already on the motor when I built it. I have the motor shifted as far forward as I could, 1/2" from the front cross member. I also shifted 1 1/2" to the Driver side to be able to have clearance for the front driver shaft to clear the tranny pan by only 1/4". I think if I were to run a manual I could have moved it towards the Passenger side. I used a universal 19"x22" radiator, but had to notch the cross member so the hood would shut. My plan was to put a 16" pusher fan on the outside where I have the most room (2.5").
With all of the tight clearances I left myself, im scared how much stuff will move once under torque and forces. Too late now to do anything about it.

 

I realy like the fan idea, im sure it would cool alot better then what I plan on doing, but there is no room for my app.

 

Looks good and it will definately be a stump puller. A short water pump would buy you some easy space up front. It will be interesting to see how well the rear driveshaft works.

 

You do have the long water pump in there. The short version has very little space between the cam cover and the back of the pump-maybe 1/8 inch. The single belt crank pulley will also have no offset for a short pump and the alternator has to sit above the intake as there is not room for it in front of the valve covers.

 

When you say up grade do you mean drum size, or master cylinder, or all of it? After speaking to godevil yesterday he mentioned about putting a brake booster and new mastercylinder with a swing petal.

 

I run a 283 SBC in my 1970 cj5. Had room for the stock cooling fan. I'm surprised you're staying with the single reservoir brake master cylinder. At least is looks like one.

My big challenge was getting brake lines connected to my new dual reservoir MC since the engine block sat right next to it.



PO switched to manual saginaw steering so oil filter clearance isn't an issue but left side motor mount clearance and left side exhaust manifold clearance both became an issue with the saggy conversion due to the steering sector rod.

 

Thanks for the advise. That is alot of help, and may open up a lot of doors. Is it that hard to switch over to a short style, ae finding alternator brakets, pump, pump pulley etc.

 

Im a little ways away from the time of exhaust but Im already trying to think ahead. Is there anyone out there that has an SBC that has ran the exhaust on the inside of the frame rail. I know it would have been easy to run it out the fenders but I wanted to challange myself. Im thinking im going to have to run a big single pipe down the inside of the passenger side frame rail.

Any thoughts?

 

See 57cj5 posts here http://www.earlycj5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=80473&page=2

he's running a 283 sbc and block hugger headers

 

Pulleys are easy to find, both aftermarket and junk yard, and the alternator bracket I like is the same one Sammy used (and it is even on sale):

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Garag...Upper-Alternator-Bracket-Stainless,45742.html

 

Sweet. That’s almost exactly what mine is, a ’60 with an SBC.
So how did you get 385 ci out of it? Stroke a 350 or destroke a 400?
Alternator bracket: I’ve been keeping my eye on these. Looks like you’ve got the welding skills to possibly make your own.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Alte...r_Truck_Parts_Accessories?hash=item439993c731

 

Your local O’Riellys will have these Mr. Gasket parts on hand, if you just want an easy and cheap alternative.
Combine this:

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MRG-9851/

With this:

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MRG-9852/

And this:

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MRG-9850/

And it places the alternator on the driver’s side above the #1 exhaust port.
This is actually what I have right now.

 

One more thing while I have it in mind, have you test fit the tub yet?
You may run into clearance issues with the big cap HEI distributor rubbing against the firewall. I’m running a Mallory small cap with remote coil because there just isn’t room for the big cap.