Drag link build sequence

I've got a problem. I put the steering all back together a while back. It's stock with all new parts; bell crank, tie rods, tie rod ends, drag link, steering gear, etc. I set the toe and everything looked good.

I've had a few month pause on the project as I was waiting on getting the tub painted. I've now started to get everything together as the body will be picked up this weekend and I noticed the toe on the frontend is out of wack. When I set it the first time, I tightened the tierod ends and I just checked them and they are still tight. Anyone know what would cause the toe to get out of wack?

Ok, here is the other question that's in the title. When I put the discs and springs back in the drag link, I checked the sequence against the original I took apart. When I went to tighten the "+" shaped cap "nuts" on both sides, I can't get them down far enough to get the cotter pin in. Anyone know what would cause this? I functions fine, I just dont want to drive it without the cotter pins in place in case the nut unscrews, the steering falls apart and crash.

Thanks, Matt

 

Now you have me nervous since half of my drag link is removed. Anyways according to Moses Ludel, Jeep CJ rebuilders manual (46 to 71), pg 402:

Make certain tapered ball stud seats and studs are clean, free of burre. Stud should seat snugly and not rotate as you tighten the castellated nut. Torque tie-rod stud nuts to 45 lb-ft,and install the cotter pin. If slots in nut do not align with the cotter pin, tighten just enough to align first available slot. Torque 5/16" thread size sleeve clap nuts to 20 lb-ft.

Hope this helps

 

Here is how the FSM says to do. It might help you a little.


http://www.hdts.vcn.com/JEEP/DRAG%20LINK.pdf

 

The problem is that I can't get the nut screwed down close enough to put the cotter pin....not even close

 

Take it all back apart & check that everything is in place & that no debris/foreign matter found it's way in there. Any chance there's just too much grease packed in there?
BTW DON'T drive it without the cotter pins in place!

 

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You can't really set it correctly until you have the JEEP totally ready to drive so the weight is distributed.

Ditto on that, I set my toe-in with bare frame, and as I have added weight, toe-in has progressively changed. On my check list for last thing to do before road test.

 

do the tapers match?
picture?

if its close you could grind the castle nut deeper but don't go crazy deep.

 

I put the drag link together dry. Would weight really affect toe? I'll take a pic so you guys can see what I'm talking about.

The front bell crank is new with new bearings and bolt. It hasn't moved that I can see