Clutch Fork Travel

Does anyone know off the top of their head what the clutch fork travel at the outside end is for a V6 diaphragm clutch for a T14? My new hdraulic set-up isn't disengaging the clutch and before I start adjusting I am looking for a starting point.

Thanks

Todd

 

I just finished my hydralic clutch setup last night. I have the same setup as you, v6 and t14. I used a speedway motors "pulltype" slave cylinder with a 7/8" bore, and a Ford 88 - 91 Bronco clutch master cylinder also with 7/8" bore. the slave cylinder will give you 7/8's to 1" travel. this travel is perfect for my application. My jeep shifted into all gears without any problums.
Slave cylinder was $34.99 + shipping, and master cylinder was 61.99? from local NAPA. Have any question e_mail.

 

I used the same cylinder with a wilwood mc and I am not getting disengagement. I think I need to put a certain amount of preload on the throw-out bearing but I am not sure. I am using a t-14 clutch a chevy thow-out bearing( the slimmer of the two most common) and a muncie car 4 speed.

 

NO.

Preload on the TO bearing will kill it in short order.

You need clearance between the pressure plate arms, and the bearing when your foot is off the pedal.

 

I used a complete stock clutch assy. on my rig 225 v-6, t-14. I had checked a friend who has a 4x4 shop, and he ststed the has a travel of approx. 2 -2 1/2". I do not have any preload on mine. How do you have tne slave cylinder installed? Do you have a bracket on your tcase? I have the piston rod attached to that bracket, and a threaded rod to the fixed cylinder attached to the fork.

 

Thanks for the tip-I didn't think so but wasn't 100% sure. I think it is just a length of travel issue.

 

like I stated earlier, I'm getting approx. 1" of travel on the slave cylinder when I measure from slave to the bracket.

 

Take a look at http://www.novak-adapt.com/knowledge/clutches_etc.htm

Pay attention to the discussion about selecting the correct length, and ratio for the release arm, located about the middle of the article.

Basically, a clutch setup is a complete system, and all parts need to play well with each other.

Good reading here.

 

I also used N1086 gm type tob. It is longer that the stock bearing and got the pedal travel right. The 1086 was 1 7/8 long as opposed to the 1741 that was 1 5/8.

 

You should have about 1/2"-3/4" of freeplay (no preload!) and about 1" of travel.

I am using a similar setup with a stock T-14 pivot arm. Can't remember if my master is 7/8" or 1", but the slave is definitely 7/8".

When I first installed the setup, I couldn't get it to fully disengage. I had air in the system. After you pump and bleed for a few times, go down to the slave and disconnect it, then bleed out some more by fully compressing the slave. Should be able to do this by hand, 3 hands make it a little easier if you've got a buddy.

 

Success! I adjusted the slave cylinder way to much and it worked but with the floor cover off I could hear the TOB. I backed it off in increments until I got it to where the clutch would disengage in the last 25% of pedal travel(just a guess). No more bearing noise and it shifts and works great (in the driveway).

I originally had the long chevy TOB and it absolutely was to long. I went to the slimmer one as stated and it works. I have been planning to add some part numbers and pics to my other swap thread for future searches and use.

Mike, I read the Novak site a many, many times. Good stuff there and it helped alot in my swap.

I installed my cylinder the opposite way that chooperdoc did. I used a hard line from MC to SC and I was concerned about longevity of the line itself moving everytime I used the clutch. Because of the shift brackets and linkages on the driverside of the tranny I just couldn't figure out a good way to fab a bracket. I ended up making an angle bracket off the inside of the frame rail to mount it to. It works but I haven't twisted it on the trail to see how it really works.

Todd

 

I have the same engine and transmission. I'd like to convert to the hydrolic system but not sure how to proceed. Do you have pictures that you could post?

 

I will be posting some soon! I need to paint everything to make it look pretty. I have another thread on this swap I will post them to. See link below. Pics aren't there yet.

http://www.earlycj5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=77764

 

I am doing the clutch on my 1970 CJ-5 with V6 and T-14. Like many before, I got a kit from Rockauto and it came with a clutch release bearing that was too short to allow for full clutch disengagement. I really don't understand why they cant get that right - anyway - based on a search here (thanks guys) I am going to order a N1086 (1.775 inch) to help take up some of the free travel. Just wondering if anyone has tried the slightly longer 1697c (1.953 inch)...?