F-134 spewing gas out of carburetor

Any help would be greatly appreciated.
After sitting for 2 months my F-134 would not start. (2 months is nothing, oftern sits for 6-12 months between visits and starts right up). I always prime it with a little gas down the carb and it starts right up. This time it wouldn't fire. After bypassing the key switch and replacing the condenser, I am getting fire to the spark plug but it is not starting. (For the sake of brevity, I am omitting a lot of details.) During my last few cranks, it forcefully blew gasoline out of the carburetor. I ran out of time and had to leave. I intend to return in 2-3 weeks. Any ideas as to what I should check out would be appreciated.

FYI: m38a1 converted to 12 volts, mechanical timing advance in distributor, probably JC Whitney distributor

 

I agree. I'd pull the top off the carb & check to see if the float's sunk or if there's debris in the needle & seat.

 

Thaks for the replies. I'll check out the carburetor float. Does a sticking float explain the rush of air out the throat of the carburetor? It looked like Old Faithful. If the engine had been hot I think the whole thing would have gone up in flames.

 

Sounds like an intake valve is not closing all the way. maybe carbon on the seat

 

Thanks for the ideas.
I like the idea that carbon could be interfering with the intake valve. That should be cheaper than a chewed up timing gear. Am I correct in these assumptions: If the valve timing is off, it would spew gas out the carb 4 times for each 2 revolutions? (cam out of sync for one cylinder is out of sync for all 4 cylinders, thus if intake valve open on compression stroke for 1 cylinder, it will be open for all other cylinders) If it spews only once per 2 revolutions then it is an intake valve on only one cylinder.

 

Yea, I need help on timing too. I cannot locate a timing refernce mark on the engine. I have always had to time it by ear. A drawing in Chilton indicates that the timing mark should be on the timing cover at about 11:00 to the crankshaft pulley. Mine is a 1953 m38a1 whereas Chilton covers '55 and later CJ5's. Does the military engine have the mark somewhere else?
Some of the "omitted details" were that the wires came off the distr. cap. They are now in the correct order (1-3-4-2 CC) but I am not positive they are at the correct location. If I can locate TDC for #1 cylinder, then I can look at the rotor and determine which cap post is for the #1 wire. Any ideas on how to find TDC#1 without a timing mark?
More omitted details: I had to lift the distr. a bit in order to install the condenser. I tried to be careful and drop it back in at the same position. I think that the distrib does not have a gear with teeth but instead has a screw driver looking drive on the bottom. If so, then shouldn't it be off 180 degrees or not at all? I am certain that I did not move the distr 180 degrees. Any help is appreciated.

 

Just to be clear, it never backfired out the carb in the nature of a premature ignition while the intake valve was still open.

 

I had the same problem with my 134 F-head. I took the carb top off and the float was stuck and one very small gasket was not seated right. After fixing float and reseating gasket, no more leak.

 

Thanks everyone for helping me work through this.
Old F-Head, did your jeep blow air and fuel back out the carburetor?

Is an abnormal amount of gasoline a symtom of a hung float? I did not notice or smell excessive gasoline at the time I was working on the engine. Of course, I was not looking for it and could have missed it. (I am currently 200 miles away from the jeep.) A good amount of gas blew out of the carb with the backflow of air; however, I think I had just dribbled some gas down the carb to help prime the engine. The engine had been sitting for a couple of months and I had been doing this off and on all day as I tried to start the engine.

What are the signs of a hung float that I should be looking for?
The most noticeable things I saw were the lack of ignition and the backflow of air (and fuel) out the carburetor. I wondered if I had a bad coil wire, although after changing the condenser, I was getting a spark at the plug.:?
If the backflow is from carbon on an intake valve, what should I use to clean it?

 

some of those timing marks are a puto to find. look for a v groove on the back portion of the pulley. it take some contorting but you might be able to feel for it.

 

wrong page dont know how that happened

 

No actually I didn't have gas blowing back out the carb. I had gas running down the side of the engine from the carb. What yours is doing does sound like you might be a little out of time. But a stuck float will dump fuel down the throat of the carb and lay in the intake manifold and drain into any cylinder that the intake valve is open on. This will also flood you out making it hard to start because your plugs will be soaked. If your a little out of time, when the plug finally does fire, the cylinder may be firing before the valve closes and causing it to blow the raw fuel back through the carb. Also, When starting it, does it turn over easily? Or does it fight to turn over? I hope this helps some what.