changing a Dana 44 to amc 20

Already been told the dana 44 is better, but the rear diff is welded. how hard is it to change to a 79 cj5, i'm assuming an AMC 20 diff. i have all the parts to a 79 cj5 axles, transfer case, breakes, and all. What do i need to make the change. Do I have to use the transfer case from the 79?.

 

What year for what? The spring perches on the 20 will be wider then an early CJ.

 

I saw your other post regarding the welded diff. If you can't do it yourself, why don't you get someone to help change out the diff in the 44 to something like a Power Lok, Trutrac or other traction diff? If you decide to go to the AMC 20 be aware that 79 CjJs came with either 3.54 or 4.09 ratios. Your earlier CJ would most likely have either 3.73 or 4.27 ratios. The 79 front would bolt right up to your 73. Also, you should look into upgrading the AMC 20 with one piece axle shafts as the stock 2 piece is the #1 weakness in those rearends.

 

I can do it myself, it's a matter of money. I have the complete drivetrian of a 79 cj5. I trying to fix my 73 cj5, it has a welded rear end that i dont like. i dont mind the posi traction part but since it's welded it want release one wheel when i turn so it drags on the pavement. Just trying to find the easiest and cheapest route to go. i want this jeep to drive on the road not to much trail riding. It has AMC 360 that runs great want to be ablr to open it up on the highway.

 

If you insist on transferring the '79 axles to the '73, you have to use both axles. The '73 and '79 will have different ratios, and front and rear ratios must match.

To install the M20 in the '73, buy some new spring mounts and weld them on to the M20 tubes at the right width and angle for the new axle. Check that the tube diameter of the M20 is the same as the D44 - if it is, you can use the D44 spring plates unmodified. If not, you'll need to modify the spring plates to accommodate the proper sized u-bolts. Note you're not supposed to reuse the axle u-bolts; they should be replaced with new ones. Also the u-bolts use special nuts, which you can reuse. I have not done this change, so there may be something I'm overlooking, but this is what I imagine you'd have to do.

The M20 is universally hated in the Jeep community - it's a real cigar butt of an axle. Installing the M20 in the '73 will significantly devalue the Jeep to a knowledgeable buyer. The M20 has thin axle tubes which tend to bend, and the connection between the axles and the hubs is weak, and the axles will spin in the hubs. If you use the M20, make sure that the hub nuts are torqued to spec, and check them often. You are compounding these problems by running a 360 ... however, if you break it, you should be able to find another one cheap or free. Or you can truss the axle and buy aftermarket replacement 1-piece axles.

If I may suggest - you could post in the WTB section of the classified here, and in your local 4x4 forums, for a replacement axle. The 3.73 D44s are fairly common and should be inexpensive to buy private party if you can find one.

Welded is not posi. If anything, it's a locker.

 

Ok, how bad is it to just drive on the road with the rear diff welded. It might just be best to wait until I can find a D44 to replace mine with. Is it a bolt on application with minimal trouble if i get another D44 to replace mine.

 

If you find a 72-75 cj5 with the same gear ratio the rear axle should bolt into yours. you'll want new u bolts, it will make life alot easier knowing you can cut or break the old ones. most likely you have the 3.73s but do not assume. If it is wrong you will instantly know the first time you put it on fourwheel and it will not be a pleasant experience. before 72 has a d44 that is offset and wont work without changing other stuff and 76 post has the M20. If you want complete bolt in no headache 72-75 cj5 easily could be swapped in an afternoon, I've done it

 

You could change the carrier in your 44 or have someone do it.

 

welded diff for road use is just fine.
as for tire churping around corners is concerned .. don't turn so sharp (you need to practice this)

 

I think you would be way ahead to swap the carrier yourself. It is super easy with just a carrier change. There is no pinion depth to do. You just swap the ring gear stick the carrier in the axle and check backlash. If is not correct you have a bit of shimming to do. Here is an ebay listing of a complete carrier for $25 buy it now and he has 10 of them. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Dana...r_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3a5a1082d0 The model 20 is a turd of an axle and there is way too much work involved. In the end you will probably end up spending more doing your swap to the later axles by the time you do the little things. Definitely not worth it. That is like throwing out the baby with the bathwater.
Greg

 

Thats the answer I've been looking for. What Other than a carrier do I need to replace? I want to also thank all of you that have helped me.

 

Can someone take a look at this photo http://www.jeep4x4center.com/jeep-axle-differential-parts/dana44-rear-cj7-cj8.htm and tell me which part numbers I would need to order.

 

That ebay carrier I posted could be all you need other than maybe some shims and if the bearings aren't serviceable a set of bearings. It's likely the shims you have will work as is as well. If you are going to buy new you will need items 9 and possibly 11 depending on which one you order. Basically you need a full dressed carrier with spiders end gears and pin. You will also need items 2, 3, and 23. That should cover it. If it were me I would have the $25 ebay one on the way. If I were going to spend what it costs for all new open carrier parts I would go looking for a used trac loc or maybe look for a true trac. Either way I would go the carrier swap route to fix your problem.
Greg

 

FYI - I ran a welded diff with 30-spline shafts (same as your Dana 44) for years on the street in my Ramcharger. Much heavier than a Jeep and I ran it with both 35s and 37-inch tires and abusive off-roading thrown into the mix. I literally put over 40K miles on that diff before I yanked it for a 35-spline spool when I went to 38s and later 42s. Just checking if you're only yanking it 'cause you think something may go wrong with it. If the welding was done competently there shouldn't be any issue driving it on the street other than the tire noise when turning at slow speed. I actually prefer a spool over an auto locker in my short-wheelbase Jeeps.

I'd also agree with the comments on swapping in an open diff if you're on tight money. I've never needed to adjust shim packs when doing a diff swap without regearing - and I've done a lot of 'em. Just yank the old bearings off the welded diff, put the shim packs on the same sides of the new diff, and hammer on some new bearings. If you've go the right bearing puller you can even reuse your old welded diff bearings. Seems much cheaper and easier to me in the long run to just keep the Dana 44 in there.

 

ahh, just throw some Rockwells under that thing and be done with it. Seriously though, i do understand how it is to have budget parameters. If money is the problem think of it this way. It would be considerably cheaper to get a different carrier for the 44 when you consider the cost of buying all new hardware (U-bolts, spring perches, welding consumables, etc.) and in the end you have a better axle for less money. Also, driving jeeps with welded axles on the road can be fine most of the time. Just keep in mind that your tires will wear faster and in you live in a place where it snows or you get heavy rain, a welded axle can be really good for making a short jeep spin rapidly over and over again on the highway.