Two new builds, one a cleanup....one PROJECT

I figured sooner or later Id post, as I lurk alot, and have 2 seperate early Jeep projects in the making, one may break me financially and be a forced sale......but whatever. Lets start with the recent purchase:

1966 CJ-6, seems to be almost a frame off restore 5-10 years ago, with some upgrades, and then it sat for 5 years............then I purchase it for a DD!!



Its specs are (as quoted to me, and some confirmed....)
1966 CJ-6, 225 odd fire, DUI dist, offy intake, Holley 4 brl, rear exit stock exhaust manifolds to duals, new wiring harness, upgraded (bigger) drum brakes, stainless lines, all new fuel lines, some 2.5 inch lift kit with Rancho shocks and HD shackles, T350 tranny conversion with AA adapter to D18 tcase, front D27 and rear offset D44 with 3.xxs (not confirmed), one piece summers bros axles, 31 BFG muds on centerlines, sag power steering conversion that apparently does not function (cant confirm, but it has pump, belt, steering shaft with joints, box and lines installed, so......but box is SCARILY mounted)

etc, etc.
Plan is to install full cage provided by the seller (it is sitting in the Jeep now), bolt it down, and weld plates under the body to the frame to stop flex that will hurt the frame/body as it is in GOOD shape, fix the steering box mount and function of power steering, clean fuel system as jeep wont run (have drained entire system, should have running this weekend), install Obriens geared 4.1 tcase I have, reupholster/pad seats, etc.

 

The second......started with this:


old specs: Scout/early Jeep D44s, 5.38s, lockrights, 4 wheel discs, 2002 4.3 FI, 700r4, novak adapter, 4.1 D18, matkins frame, sprung over on wrangler springs, 33ltbs, rocker/corner gaurds, etc.
So, new plan is: Rear Ford 9, with Hi Nine center section, spooled, 5.38s, discs, sprung under with RE 4.5 YJ springs (if I EVER get them...grrrrr), front is narrowed D60 (65" wide), sprung over, 35 spline shafts, ARB, 5.38s, Solid 5 lug hubs, drilled/vented rotors, high steer with ARP studs, one ton tie rod ends, front pushed forward 3-4 inches, rear pushed back 3", 37 Toyos on 17 Allied beadlocks, and a new 27 spline input d300, 4.1 lomax geared, twin sticked, with bling new novak 1.1" thick adapter. Springs have been inboarded under the frame where they were before, for more flex/tire clearance.

Ill get some pics, but this is taking FOREVER (parts disaster), and my wallet has been submitted to FEMA for AID!!!

 

It is don's old jeep.

 

I can confirm it used to be yellow. I just wasnt happy with the SMALL ujoint at the front tcase output that was just about at max angle (like 7 degrees) at ride height, and the short shackles combined with some serious outboarding (springs like 32.5 on center!!), and about 1.5 of slip(10" long driveline) in the rear driveline before it pulled apart, so it really wasnt helping suspension flex for the harder core offroading I envisioned. It also had a BAD gear setup on the front gearset from one of the POs, along with some shot balljoints............so some things kinda snowballed. I had to remove the adapter that was installed, as it turned out to be a D20 adapter, and was 3/4 inch shorter than the intended 700r4/d18 adapter, making NO room for a 1310 ujoint, and the output shaft was cut to fit, so it was either REPLACE the adapter with the correct one just like it, but 3.4 inch longer AND replace the trans mainshaft, along with repairing the front axle and dealing with the rear driveline.....................or put it together the way I would have. Axles are 65" wide as opposed to 60-61, springs are 27.5-28" on center as opposed to 32.5, adapter is 1.1 thick, and axle is pushed back 3", as well as the shorter MUCH higher pinion on the nine, so I get a TJ sized 1310 rear driveline (17-17.5"), and the vertical drop shouldnt be an issue in the rear since its centered now...............just dealing with a 89" plus or minus 1 wheelbase (firm measurement once the rear springs are installed, and perches welded on). Just trying to improve on a proven platform!!!! I also DESPERATELY need to re loom the wiring to the 4.3, as it is bad.
Anyone who has any info on the CJ-6, send it my way, going through reciepts today....turns out it may actually have a detroit in it!!

 

Is that a venting windshield on the CJ6?

 

Yup, one of the attractions. I have never seen one ('cept in pics) before now

 

The cage:



How it looked in PO's CJ-6

 

that's pretty sweet

 

Funny you said that.....after some research into some old posts, it seems that the "after" (4.3/700r4/novakadapt/d-18 resulted in a 10" driveshaft, and the "before" (4.1 buick/700r4/novakadapt/d-18 was a 16"......so, anyone with one of these super short wheelbase vehicles should know you WILL lose 6" driveline just by using this engine (engine drive pulley is right up against radiator, so it wont go any further forward(NO room for any sort of mechanical fan, and VERY little dist clearance at firewall).Just some things to think about.

 

She lives!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Cleaned fuel system (still has some crud in it, but its TONS better, cleaned the filter like 5 times, drained entire sys, lines, pump, etc.), replaced vaccum line to transmission modulator, plugged vaccuum leak on manifold fitting at rear, cleaned carb, removed 3 washers under water pump pulley (WTF??) as it wobbled, runs and idles great................

BUT
....passenger vaccum wiper works, back and forth, drivers side only goes one way when button is pulled, and back the other way when pushed in.....dunno
.....power steering does not function, pulled dipstick, looks as if pump is functioning, box moves ALOT on that scary *** mount, have to remount, and maybe replace box.........
....Wiring, well......its all new, but seems nothing is hooked up (even though it looks like it is). Ameter and oil pressure work, nothing else (HAVE to buy a water temp, as I couldnt get the fan to come on, even though its hooked up??), no speedo cable is installed, and no lights function/or are hooked up (headlights have dimmer on floor, but no dash switch, turn signals arent hooked up at the column but wiring is running forward from the front and rear. I need a drivers side signal to install as well.....).
I can also confirm that the Jeep is 3.73 geared, detroit locker in the rear. I also need to square up the cage as best as I can, and bolt it in.

 

Will you be able to operate the venting windshield with the cage in?

 

Yes............but only after extending the wingnut like ends, so that it clears the rollcage , which is my plan!! Good catch.
Now if only I can figure out if the mounting plate welded to the inside of my frame which is threaded (again, wtf?? Never seen one threaded, and its not used, fairly thick like 3/8 inch, I dunno), and APPEARS to have the same bolt pattern mounting as the steering box can be drilled out, frame sleeve, and boxed in front (have NO FAB SKILLS, cause no welder............grrrr) and how to cut out the front crossmember for the steering shaft. Then somehow determine whether its the box or pump thats not working.

 

Wich is the brand of the softop of your 3A ??

 

Its a Kayline, and a 2a!

 

ok, thanks, nice 2A with 3A windshiled

 

What are the current axles in the flatty out of? I like the looks of the 2A/3A!

 

Progress:

 

califorina house


east coast house


oh ,and very nice rigs there ...........can't makeup my mind which one I like more ,,,,,,,,,,