D20 Transfercase Removal

I finally found the time to pull my t-case out. The PO fabbed up a crossmember that supports both the t-case and my T-18. I was going to use a jack and a jackstand to support the tranny, remove the X-member, and then unbolt the t-case. Any problems with this idea? Is it as simple as removing the 5 bolts that hold it to the T-18 and then wiggling it and little and pulling to separate it? I was just gonna lie on my back and do this; surely the t-case doesn't weigh more than 80 lbs?

Also, have any of you guys used two 3/8 in. dowels about 4 in. long to hold the gasket in place for install?

Thanks for the help!

 

The T-Case might be more than 80 pounds, I just pulled mine and it was heavy and ackward. My tub is off so I had alittle easier time with it

 

Awkward is the key. When I pulled mine, the last place I wanted to be was under it. I also installed studs in the mounting holes on the T18 to make installation a bit easier. The rest of your assessment is correct, 5 bolts and wiggle it loose.

As for the gasket, I smeared it with grease and stuck it to the back of the T18, kept the gasket out of the way and most importantly, no leaks.

 

I CANNOT for the life of me get a socket on the two top bolts. Am I missing something? I lowered the transmission/transfercase a couple of inches to get some room to work, but I just can't seem to get a wrench or socket on them. Anybody else have this issue? I'm starting to wonder if I'll have to unbolt the T-18 just to get the t-case off.

 

I removed the big access panel from the interior and accessed them from the top.

 

And if the PO rhino lined the whole tub, what option does that leave me? It's almost like the bolt heads are recessed below the ear on the transfercase, or at least from what I can feel. I cant even fit just a socket on em either.
Posted via Mobile Device

 

If the bolts are coverd with Rhino liner, I suggest you try hammering the socket onto the bolt. If that doesn't work, I recall you can soften the liner with brake fluid. Heat would work too.

Get some light in there, and a mirror, so you can see what you are doing. Remove the floors too.

 

Thank you timgr.... Used the brake fluid w/ small spray bottle on the rhino-liner in bed of GMC Denali Quadrasteer/AWD and the rhino-liner material seemed to melt from bolt-heads and made the removal effort manageable. Appreciate the post!
Please, ensure to utilize a good size "drip pan" beneath any use of brake fluid on rhino liner product. Again... the Jarhead benefits from OJT.

Previously weighed D20 while r/r and installing the twin-stix 20 kit. Digital scale noted weight at 87 lbs. Also.. try NOT to pull on the T-case too hard.... if difficult to separate...it is simply binding/ sticking and requires a gentle lateral nudge, If you get into Gorilla Mode, could inadvertently pull the mainshaft out of alignment in the transmission, the connecting gear between the transmission and t-case has to be lined up just right to separate. Or... remaining lubricant could be creating a vacuum between face of gearing. Ended up spending a Saturday night with my buddy reassembling his transmission... only because a well intentioned "let us show you how we removed ours". It should come apart and reassemble without "force"!:AMC:

Have used RTV gray (very lubricant hardy and kept dana 18 & 20 dry)... if utilizing a gasket. Ensure to only adhere the gasket on one side with RTV... the side being removed will prove easier to clean in future. found out the hard way as usual for this jarhead. :JEEP:

Gunner

 

I can't remove the floors/access panel due to like 1/2 an inch of Herculiner/Line-X on the interior of the tub. Sorry, I should have been more descriptive-the bolt heads themselves don't have liner on them, I just can't fit a 9/16 socket (even a thin-walled one) on the top two bolt heads due to the t-case housing, or fit a wrench on them due to the lack of room.

Tomorrow I'm going to get my t-case dropped one way or the other. Idk how much further I can lower my t-case/transmission/motor without damaging the motor mounts etc. What are my options? I was even unaware that I could take out the floors due to my "superlining".

@ 72_CJ5_MUD: Thanks for the heads up. I've been around a wrench long enough to learn that "Gorilla Mode" is not the way to go lol. The t-case is loose as I've been able to loosen the bottom three bolts and gently shimmy the t-case. If I'm gentle when I pull it, nothing should shift/fall etc that will hinder me in reinstalling it, correct?

Thanks again for any help! The frustration this Jeep has caused me has shortened my life by at least a year, but I'm glad that I can get great advice from you guys.

 

use indian head type gasket sealer permatex makes it works a treat for all us old school guys.and yes the main WILL move fall out with too much force.....but i can put all the little parts back well now......

 

UPDATE: Got it pulled FINALLY. Ended up lowering the t-case/transmission/motor another couple of inches to be able to get a pivot extension and a short wobble socket in there. Note: For any others attempting this-what a pain this was without any access from the top. Keep that in mind. Also, I only had four bolts (instead of five) that bolt the t-case to the T-18...

Quick question, where can I get a T-18 transmission-crossmember mount like this:


The pad on the right has two bolts that bolt it to the bottom of the T-18. It fits inside the one of the left, and the left one has four studs on the underside that bolt it to the crossmember. Anyone ever seen one like this, or know where I can get a new one? My t-case was rubbing on the X-member (not good), so hopefully a new mount will raise it the necessary height so I don't have to grind on my X-member. Thanks!

 

That mount looks like a standard mount sold at most auto stores. take the old one with you to match it up, but most do carry it in stock (at least mine did)

 

Does anyone have a part number or anything else that can help me to find one of these mounts? I took it to NAPA and an old guy there recognized it, but he could only remember TRW- out of the part #. Anyone help me out?

Thanks!