1967 Jeepster Commando - I am new to the Jeep family

Ok guys........help me out here.........see the questions in the quote above....

www.goincommando.wordpress.com

 

No and, ah----no. There are some aftermarket seats you can adapt. I'm using Cavalier/Sunfire/Grand Am seats in my snowplow Jeepster, a 71 HC I'm building and if I decide to do it a Bullnose HC. You can also adapt some other Jeep model rear seats if you can't find one for a Jeepster, CJ comes to mind.

 

You can also check out the seats by corbeau. They sell brackets for just about anything and have a few different front/rear matching sets. Really cool seats.

 

I am running front seats out of a YJ that I made my own mounts for, the rear is a stock folding Jeepster seat, but I have seen CJ and YJ fold and tumble seats that fit back there.


If it helps at all pay close attention to TrickPatrick his advice and knowledge are top notch and he really helped me get motivated to complete my build, though it is never done.LOL!! His build gave me ideas for mine, since we both were headed towards a driver/trail rig. I am not saying that he is the only one, but he definetly has a good hold on what works and what doesn't when it comes to these Jepsters.

 

Well folks........I have finally formalized my plan........it has been updated on my blog.....i have also updated the blog with many more pictures on the "About" page and have added new info on other pages too. go check it out www.goincommando.wordpress.com ....anyway, the point of this post is to show all of you my plan and to get some feedback.....so here it is.....:v6:

Build a "daily" driver with mild/moderate off-road capabilty; in short I want to build a driver/trail rig

Keep and rejuvenate the original engine (Dauntless 225 V6)

Replace the original T-86 3 speed with a TH400 (automatic)

Replace all floor pans and complete all necessary body repair

Relace or repair hard top

Add a roll bar (this commando was not originally equipped with one)

Replace or repair all interior (seats, console, liner, steering wheel, etc...)

Upgrade stereo system

Replace or repair all hardware and lighting (gaskets, door/window seals, windows, headlights, tail lights, all mirrors, chrome bumpers, interior handles, exterior handles, latches, etc...)

Avoid having to cut any of the fenders away (which means tire size will be somewhat limited)

Replace original suspension with some kind of new suspension consisting of airshocks and/or coilovers (depending on lottery numbers)

Upgrade steering to power steering (would like full hydro steering)

Add some kind of 31" or 32" tires on some kind of wheels (if I go any bigger, fender cutting may be required)

Add a spare tire swing arm for a matching tire and wheel

Raise overall height by adding a 2" - 4" lift

Add new paint interior and exterior (RED interior and exterior tub; WHITE top, windshield frame, and accents)

Let me know your thoughts.........

 

Sounds like a plan :tea:. I am also still waiting for those illusive winning lottery numbers 8).

 

A well thought out plan, although I don't know why you would go to full hydro steering if you are only planning on going up to a 32" tire max.

I need to check the weekend's lotto tickets.

 

Well, I won't be going for the full hydro steering after all. It is not street legal (just learned that today). And I am now leaning toward a Hell Creek 4" lift to help accomodate some kind of 33" tire set instead of the originally planned 31" - 32". I think I will be happier with it that way. :v6: BTW, no luck on the lotto this week. R)

www.goincommando.wordpress.com

 

I have a CJ fold and tumble rear seat in my commando (Installed by PO) , but the brackets for the seat position the seat too high. I recall seeing a thread on here from someone who fashioned new brackets for a CJ seat- will search

 

Here's the thread:
http://www.earlycj5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=66219&highlight=rear+seat

 

This sounds like a good plan with a couple bump's in the road.

First settle on leaf springs.
Spring under like stock...

Stay away from pirate 4x4
Heres why.
they build trailer rigs, hardcore wheeling.
if you read that stuff you start thinking you need that stuff, ie.
Coil overs, dana 60 ect. blah, blah ,blah.
It will suck you in...
You want a daily driver that can wheel.
Keep saying that over and over.
Their are thousands of guy's right here who will tell you dont need that stuff..

OK.
I like your list ,but here are some things to ponder.

The 225 will cost as much to rebuild as any motor you could want.
And when you get that 40 some year old motor apart you may find its junk now..
Have an alternate plan when you get to this step.
For instance if it bad and you go with a Chevy motor you need a different Turbo 400.

I like the Turbo 400.
2or 3 things though ,It will probably need a 2 piece front drive shaft.
And dont use a stock adaptor to your t 20 as they tend to crack.
use a after market one. IMHO.
You need a rad. or cooler for it.

Floor pans are not hard, but should be welded in.
Use a bed liner over it and it doesnt have to be pretty.
Make sure all lines under the floor are pulled away from the area you will cut out
Duh... I was replacing those brake line anyway but crap it could have caught on fire..

Hardtops are not hard to get just buy another Jeepster and part it out.
Caution the other top may not fit that great have to make it work..

Rollbars are very subjective. Its your life, think carefuly.
Mine is a cj bar that I shortened and mounted on the fenderwells.
Not very safe, is coming out, soon.
If you have even a slight idea you will wheel in the woods then you should have a real cage installed period.

Interior:
I bought some really nice seats at the pull and save for penny's
Their out of a Ford exploder.
Heres what I found.
the Jeepster has a low windsheild and so it needs a low seat.
Regular seats sit to high...
After market seats dont have a bunch of stuff under them and would be a better choice to mount how you want.
Also mine dont flip forward not good for back seat acess
Very comfortable though.
Tilt column from a gm is nice.
Back seat also is mounted very low.

Stereo:
get an amp.
Its hard to hear with the top off..

All the hardware seals, ect. is going to eat you alive pick and chose as you go.
Some of it you may just want to live without for awhile.

Rear fender:
this is tough you almost have to modify it for most tire size other than stock.
Pick your poison.

Suspension stay with a 4 inch max lift.
Alcans would be a good simple choice.

I would seriously think about a better front axle.
Widetrack dana 30 is most popular.
Disc brakes ect.
search it.

Steering:
get rid of the stock stuff.
Saginaw power.
this swap is hard for a beginer but so worth it.
Safety first, get help.

Tires:
32's are fine for what you want.
decide on them and stick with it.
This tire size would work well with 4.27's
IMHO.

Learn to weld if you dont know already.

When I got serious about building rigs I bought a welder and good sized air compressor first.

 

Hey, Trick. I appreciate the feedback.......as always. Anyway, on the 4" lift you mentioned Alcans. Is the website www.alcanspring.com the right place?

 

Yes notice the jeepster on the home page..
Only thing is.
i would think about a wider front spring than stock so dont order anything till your sure the stock width is pretty narrow.
I would want the 2.5 width to go with the back and like I mentioned.
Look seriously at a Dana 30 front axle.

I have BDS rideglides on mine. 3.5 lift.
Rubicon Express is a good spring to.
but Alcans are great for stock type springs that could just bolt in.

 

I can't wait to see this plan evolve.

What I have noticed with the JC is that with marginal lift and a 31-33" tire you have "alot" of ground clearance especially body to ground..with my 4" Hellcreek springs and 31's which measure out the same as a set of 33" Boggers I have on my CJ,I have close to 24" clearance/step in height which IMO is plenty for a DD/trail rig(makes you use your driving skills)

A few things on your list do not necessarily have to get done now...I chose to use some of my stock items with the intent to upgrade as they fail/break...one being the front D27, as much as I want to pull it, there is nothing wrong with it, and if I wheel smartly it may last a long time.

 

Thanks for the info, 60sCJ!

BTW everyone, I updated the blog. Go check out what I have accomplished this week! Pics are included! www.goincommando.wordpress.com. :v6:

 

"And dont use a stock adaptor to your t 20 as they tend to crack."

Yes get rid of it if you do th400. Just had my commando in the shop to have the HC 4" lift put in and the mechanic checked the TC to find all the blots lose.

And the adapter cracked. Novak has a nice replacement for it about 2-$300.

 

Thanks Wolfy! Appreciate the advice. :stout::v6:

 

Thanks, Warlock. I will take all the advice and recommendations I can get.

 

Like was said prior, with the cost of rebuilding the Dauntless you could go with another motor, I recomend a modern large V-6 like the Chevy 4,3, and go wiht the fuel injection, that will be a huge help with a DD and you'll most likely see better fuel economy.

Good plan. I'd also recomend breaking it into stages, with Stage-1 being the work necessary to get it running and on the road, just get it going and start enjoying it prior to moving on. I have seen a lot of projects that languished for years because they were not runnig and the owner lost interest.