Jeep First timer

Hi all,
I brought the jeep home and had to do a lot of sucking up to my wife. The next day my son and I had it striped down to the drive train. Disassembly was easier than I thought. A few days later we towed the frame and drive train down to the car wash to begin clean up. It's been a couple of weeks since we started and now it's has no engine transmission and transfer. The engine block and head are at the Machine Shop getting checked out from top to bottom. The transfer is striped and cleaned and waiting for reassemble. Here are some of the picks that were taken during that 2 week period. Tomorrow after work I will start the reassemble of the transfer. I ordered new seals for the transfer, transmission, rear-end and front-end. The engine block and head will not be ready for a couple of weeks which is good I have lots to do. My goal to be at 75% complete by this spring with just the body needing to be finished.

 

Good score. You are going to have a lot of fun with your build. It's (was) already a nice looking rig. You are definitely on the right path.

 

I know I stated in my earlier message that the engine at the machine shop getting work. Here are some Pics on its state of condition before it went to the shop. From what I was told the jeep was set up factory to run on propane because it first home was in Mystic Caverns, MO. When I disassembled the jeep I didn't find any gas tank. I was also told that the guy put a car and electric fuel pump on the jeep but never finished it. When I pulled the oil drain out about 2 QTs of milky water came rushing out. I thought to myself, that's not good. I'm not sure how long the jeep was setting with no water but as you see in the pics there isn't any rust in the lower end, just milky water. I looked at the bearings and they are surprising good. I also wiped some of the Crank Journals and to my surprise there any wear. Now the upper end is another story. When I pulled the head there was a layer of rust caked on top of the piston and around the valves. I was able to wipe most of the rust off with a rag. The block had a stuck valve for some reason. Has anyone ever tore down an engine that ran on propane before? Are conditions like what I found common with propane engines?
Well that's it for today, have a good, Brian

 

Hello all,
While I'm waiting for the engine and head to be done I started stripping the rest of the frame down. Wow what a job it's going to be to bring this old jeep to top shape.
After stripping the frame all the way down my son and I started sanding the frame down with a sandblaster my dad brought me and wire wheel brushes. The sanding job took a good day and I still have more to do. I was able to finish the job completely because the sandblaster I was using was too much for my little air compressor. I ordered a small spot blaster from Harbor Freight but it hasn't shown up yet. Most of that frame is bare metal for a week now, and yes it's starting to rust back up. I hope that blaster comes in soon.
What should I use to keep the rust from coming back? Thanks for your help.
Brian

 

Hello All,
While I was waiting for the sandblaster to come in I received a call from the machine Shop telling me the engine was ready for pick up. I finished it last weekend and pained it red. The engine block was cleaned, Magna-fluxed, and the exhaust values were redone. The Head ended up getting milled, magna-fluxed, and valves redone. I didn't have the crank turned nor did I replace the bearings. the total cost for the machine work 80.00, new rings 40.00, gasket set 80.00 and part cleaner 80.00. Here are some pictures of the build.
I will start the rust inhibitor ASAP. I'm thinking of trying to using some off the shelf rust converter spray from Auto Zone following with some epoxy primer from a spray can. I don't have a paint gun so I'm not buying it in bulk. What's your thoughts on that? Thanks for your input,
Brian

 

Rust converter needs rust to convert otherwise its just an ugly mess you'll have to clean up before you paint. If you've sandblasted you don't have enough. If you just want to keep it from surface rusting after blasting, spray it down w/ WD-40. When ready to paint clean it up w/ brake cleaner before you spray it. An epoxy primer is good, better would be POR-15 and Top Coat. POR is a rust encapsulator and doesn't need rust to work. It seals the metal so no O2 can get to it, thereby preventing any new rust from forming.:v6:

 

Good to know, thanks

 

The engine conditions you describe, the rust and stuck valves are not likely caused by LP gas used as a fuel. LP gas is supposed to be a cleaner burning fuel than gasoline. You described the oil as being milk colored when you drained it so some how, some time you got water in the crankcase which would be the source of rust. I see you had a machinist magnuflux the block for cracks. Also have the heads inspected and or magnafluxed before assembly.

 

I had the head done too. The head was also milled, and a valve job was done.

 

The frame is finely finished. I bought a paint spray gun and did it up right. I treated the minor rust areas with rust encapsulator then sprayed it with 2 coats of epoxy primer and 2 coats of industrial gloss black paint. I'm very happy with the finial look. I'm starting the leaf springs now and they are in bad shape. Larry D, your right about LP gas not causing the damage. I now believe the jeep spent some time under water, maybe it was flooded and that's what caused the damage. I found water in the engine transmission, transfer, frontend, reared, steering gearbox, and master cylinder. I guess My work is cut out for me...

 

That's good advice, Thanks.

 

Hi All,
It's been quite awhile since my last update on the jeep. I completed a lot of major tasks and I'm starting to put it back together.
Leaf springs: I separated all the leaf springs and cleaned all the rust grease and dirt which was an all day job. Put a thin layer of grease between each spring and put them all back together with new spring bolts (Napa). I had an issue finding an original looking band to replace the one I took off. After a couple months searching I decided to make my own. I used flat steel not sure of the gauge but it was 1" wide (Hard Ware Store). I wrapped the spring s at the original location and tack welded them emplace. I was very concerned using the welder because it might weaken the springs, so I tack welded the bands to its self and not to the spring. Now their primered and bolted to the frame with new bolts (Hard Ware Store) and bushing (JC Whitney).
http://i755.photobucket.com/albums/xx195/btraines/DSC02050.jpg http://i755.photobucket.com/albums/xx195/btraines/DSC02068.jpg http://i755.photobucket.com/albums/xx195/btraines/DSC02208-1.jpg http://i755.photobucket.com/albums/xx195/btraines/DSC02148.jpg