Swaged bolts, Rear drum removal 1971 cj5

So I feel like I've searched the forum for all different advice about removing my drums on a 1971 cj5 (rears). I went and bought a "beefy" hub puller at a local FLAPS, even added a 2.5' pipe on the end of the ratchet for leverage. I know my bolts are swaged on and read that I need to pull out the drum/hub as as assembly. I don't think my drum is coming out with a puller ... I think I even broke the puller's threads with all the torque I was using. So I think I have two options. 1. Go into the rear dif. and slide the axel out from there 2. (and this is more a question) If I don't want to save the drum, can I just cut it down the middle ... cut the swaged bolts off too. The only part I would want to save is the hub. At this point, I don't think drums are that expensive ... I could just do the cutting and just be done with it ... any thoughts as to how/where/when to cut?

Thanks

 

Yeah, puller looks like that ... It's the one that pulls on the studs. I mean, I really pushed this thing ... I used a 3' tube for torque. It got so bad that the metal on the center thread on the puller seized up from all the pressure and I ruined it. I know people keep telling me to keep hit it ... I feel like I did for hours ... and nothing. May be I can try the other wheel, see if that budges. Have you ever heard of cutting the studs or the drum to get it off? I love how a simple "I need to change the wheel cylinders" turns into a huge project!

 

Excuse me for asking but you say the vehicle your working on is a 71 cj-5 with a flanged rear axles.If so that may be the problem.do the axles have a large nut on the end or are they flat.pictures would help diagnose problem. good luck.


mike s.

 

I don't have pictures right now (it is helpful to have them). The axel shaft had a large castle nut and clip, I took those both off. What do you think the problem is? I started reading some of the threads again and may have a couple ideas. The puller I had, which seemed very big and industrial, didn't have the "ears" on the side where I could hit with a hammer. Although I used a 3 foot pipe for torque, if I remember my physics ... hitting with a hammer/impact can give it more force then a slow steady increase in torque from a pipe. May be I should find that exact puller that "Patrick" had ... Is there anyone on this thread that I could borrow a puller from? I could pay them for shipping and a little extra ... My other idea was to put the castle nut back on, leave it a turn open and drive it up and down the street. My breaks aren't that good (air in them) but I could do that a couple of times and see if that would work ... any thoughts

 

OK it seems that you do have a two piece rear axle with a tapered axle and hub.first thing is can you still put the nut back on or are the threads damaged ?if you can good.install the nut backwards and thread on so it is flush with end of axle than attach puller ,tighten and hammer on end as you go .keep tightning and than hammering .it will come off.

mike s.

 

Does anyone know of a tool rental place in Boston where I can get the hub puller Patrick (above) was talking about? I think I need that one ... It doesn't seem like NAPA, Advance, or Autozone has one that is that industrial ... If I start with the right hub puller I think I'll get it. My threads are ok, and I can put the castle but back on ...

 

If you can't find one to rent, a possible fallback position would be to buy one from jcwhitney ($60)

http://www.jcwhitney.com/Profession...12;0;0;0;100001;ProductName;0;0;0;0;2007847;0

 

Try calling Taylor Rentals in Arlington http://www.taylorrentalarlington.com/equipment.nxg. If they don't have one, they might be able to direct you to someone that does. There's also a Sunbelt Rentals in Woburn that you could try.

 

I would say that you have to have the puller that Patrick posted.

Sucks that you have a '71 and still have two piece'rs

 

awesome ... thanks guys, I will try those two places!

 

The puller that Patrick posted can be purchased from http://kaiserwillys.com for I think around $80...they work great!

 

I got one of the killer pullers off e-bay for around $80. The local rental place had one about 4 years ago but they lost it. I had to tighten mine to the point of pulling the studs out I feared, and then heated the hub with a torch. For once I was thinking enough to put the nut on for containment. When it finally pops it is scary loud.

 

If you try Grainger Industrial Supply they have the puller you're looking for, it's expensive but works great, It was $170.00.

 

So my question now is: Once I get the puller and get the hub/drum off, how do I go separating the hub from the drum? It's swaged on, but can I bring it to a machinist and have them press it off? I want to save the hub and drum.

 

But if they press it out, won't it make the hole bigger and the studs won't fit snug?
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manganjb, I'm new at this forum process. Did you get the drum/hub removed from your jeep? I have a 1966 with less than 18K miles I bought new when I got out of service & drove to MT. I used it for a couple years before going to work for John Deere in Mpls. I retired & moved back to MT a couple years ago. It has been stored inside my garages for 41 years & this fall I needed transportation being our family car wasn't driveable. You probably know how we get busy with everything & neglect things. I would start the engine every other year, but it was on blocks all the time until I towed it to MT. When I drove it, it pulled hard to right when the brakes were applied, so it was time to flush the brake lines & install cylinder kits. This has been an education & I appreciate your posting the info you did. I didn't have the puller others advised you to obtain, but I had pieces by OTC for pulling drums. I obtained coupling nuts, cap screws & threaded rod of grade 8. Attached the pieces & met the surprise that you have explained. I even applied heat with my oxy-ace torch to the hub. First I was using a 3# lead hammer & decided it was absorbing the shock & switched to a 2# Blacksmith hammer. I actually bent the forcing screw from all the pounding before the RH side let loose. The LH side came some what easier with the same process.
I have a couple questons at this point & anyone reading this is welcome to reply: [1] I'm thinking of applying "Never Seize" paste to the tapered surface when re-assembling. What is the normal torque for the castelated nut & would you advise the use of "Never Seize"? [2] When I removed the RH backing plate I find one .030" shim, one .060" shim next to the axle & bearing. [The LH side did not have these two shims.] Then there was a .029" plate with grease seal & a .150" thick plate next to the brake backing plate. The problem I found was the plate on LH side with grease seal is nearly worn through from opposite side of the seal. I missed the direction that this seal should be installed for either side, but this worn side had to be toward the bearing. Do you know if there is a specified adjustment to preload the bearing [or endplay]? I'm thinking the LH side was not set up correctly, being the seal plate is nearly worn through. Your or anyone's input is welcome. LeoS

 

I had a similar experiance with the hubs in my 56 rear. I broke the jc w puller , mande up one that was twice as beefy, broke that, tried heat, impact, you name it. Finally took the whole mess in to work and pressed the hub and bearings out with a 50 ton press.
That press nornally doesn't bog down on much, but it grunted a bit before the hub came off with a clang. Bent the hub . So, on the other side, same story, finally just cut through the hub with a cutoff wheel and saved myself a lot of grief.