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One CJ5 from three on the cheap.

Discussion in 'Intermediate CJ-5/6/7/8' started by dortoh, Nov 29, 2009.

  1. Nov 29, 2009
    dortoh

    dortoh New Member

    Palmer, Alaska
    Joined:
    Jun 5, 2009
    Messages:
    44
    Here is the deal. I have three CJ5s and need to get it down to one that I can use as a daily driver by fall next year. I don't have a heated or covered place to work on it so this winter will be dedicated to parts gathering. I will have 3 months next summer to work on it after work and on weekends to get it finished. I want to use as much of what I have as I can. Last I'm on a fairly tight budget but will go with the best over all plan since I have a few months to aquire parts if needed.

    I'm open to ideas:D

    I posted a few of mine at the bottom.

    I have the following:
    1966: with stock drive train (225, t86, dana18, dana27 front end, dana44 rear end with 3:73 gears) with a hard top this one runs and is the jeep I use with my plow current plow. It has a post 72 body with short front fenders and hood. The gas tank is under the driver’s seat. The bad; the frame is broken, repaired and broken again. This time it is from the top down to the bottom of the [ in the original crack and one side of the repair.

    1970: with stock drive train (225, t14, dana18, dana27 front end, flanged one piece axles dana44 rear end limited slip with 3:73 gears). The gas tank in the rear between frame rails. The bad; the front end has a bad spindle, stub axle, hub and locking hub. The tub has no floors (rusted). The frames front spring perches are pulled out of the frame and it has several broken leaves in the spring packs. The engine runs and it moves but the axle and frame drove it to be my parts rig.

    1977: This is the new one. It was originally a 304, t150 and dana20, dana30 front end, AMC 20 rear with 3:54 gears. I don’t have the 304 and the t150 is questionable (gears hanging out the back of it). The transfer-case and transmission are separated. It has a lot of things I would like to have power steering, power brakes, tilt wheel, disk brakes on front, 11” drum brakes on the back, front loop and connectors on the roll bar and the frame is the cleanest one of the three. The bad: The tub has rust through on the back half.

    What I want in the finished CJ5. My 225, twin sticks on the transfer case (I have the parts already) dana30 and disk brakes, 11” rear brakes, power steering, power brakes, tilt wheel, hard top, Roll bar with front loop and gas tank under the driver’s seat.

    I can take the two post 1972 bodies and make a good one (I hope).

    I figure these are my options for the drive train.
    1. Mate the 225 with the t14 to the dana20 (can it be done?) and put it in the 1977.
    2. Pull the 225, t14, dana18 and flanged dana44 rear end put in the 1977 and install a set of 3:73 in the dana30 front end.
    3. Pull the 225, t14, dana18 and flanged dana44 rear end put in the 1977 and install 4:88 gears in both the differentials.
    4. Track down an AMC V8 and put the 1977 back on the road and sell the other two.
     
  2. Nov 29, 2009
    OnlyinaJeepCJ

    OnlyinaJeepCJ Member

    Mobile, AL
    Joined:
    Apr 16, 2004
    Messages:
    52
    # 4. Compare the 77 tub mounts and frame and you'll see the post 75 frames are wider in the rear. So keeping the axles with the 77, you'll save time and $ with disk brakes up front and preches already set. plus 354 isn't bad for 31 to 32 inch tires. I think the Dana 18 and 20 have the same pattern. My CJ-6 had the T-14.dana 20 combo till I went with the 304 / T-15 / dana 20. I would compare ordering floorpans for the 66 (post 72 body) and repairing the rear of the 77 tub and go from there. Use the hardtop. and go with a tank in the rear. I would find a 304 or 360, but I'm sure the 225 can be swappped in fine.
     
  3. Nov 29, 2009
    dortoh

    dortoh New Member

    Palmer, Alaska
    Joined:
    Jun 5, 2009
    Messages:
    44
    Right now it looks like I will be using this version.

    The frame and body from the 1977 with all it's options. The engine :v6:, transmission and hard top (I think it was for a later windshield frame anyway) from my 1966 and what ever body panels I can pull from it to fix the rust on the back of the 1977.

    That will be the quickest and I know the condition of the engine :v6: and trans.:twisted:

    This should be the cheapest way to go. The clutch linkage and power steering brackets will be my challenges! Not many older Buicks up here to get parts from. All the older stuff has been crushed:(
     
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