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Well the project has begun

Discussion in 'Builds and Fabricators Forum' started by Oldyeller, Sep 25, 2009.

  1. Sep 25, 2009
    Oldyeller

    Oldyeller New Member

    Westminster,...
    Joined:
    Mar 3, 2004
    Messages:
    24
    Hey guys,
    Its been a long time since I've been on butnow that I've started my "restore" of Old Yeller I figured I post some pics.

    I'm not going for a show quality restoration here, I'm just trying to stop the decay and get Yeller running again. He's been sitting for , Yikes 6-7 years now! He didn't get winterized properly either, just parked. I already have the tranny and T-case rebuilt and ready to go, so now its on to the rest...
    I have the body mostly off, am waiting for more muscle to get the tub off.
    An observation, Old Jeeps come apart fast :shock: I know it won't go together as quickly.

    Had a couple of questions too...
    First any recommendations on paint and primers for the frame and body?

    How do I get started checking the engine out and getting it back on its feet? It ran fine when I parked it.

    Any good tricks for cleaning up the frame, from rust, and fixing cracks? I'm tempted to do a partial boxing of the frame, I just don't want to have to put a million weld nuts in.

    Any other valuable tips, I'm sure I'll be asking other questions later.

    By the way its good to actually have something to post, instead of just lurking.

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Sep 25, 2009
  2. Sep 25, 2009
    Oldyeller

    Oldyeller New Member

    Westminster,...
    Joined:
    Mar 3, 2004
    Messages:
    24
    Posting rules say I can't post attachments, apparently I'm not cool enough.:mad:
     
  3. Sep 25, 2009
    Patrick

    Patrick Super Moderator Staff Member

    Los Alamos, NM
    Joined:
    Sep 22, 2002
    Messages:
    8,360
    Attachments are disabled for everyone. Leftover from when the site was hacked.
    Use Photobucket or the like.
     
  4. Sep 25, 2009
    1969_CJ5

    1969_CJ5 Sponsor

    North Carolina
    Joined:
    Feb 14, 2004
    Messages:
    182
    Welcome back....

    I too am just starting an old project that has been sitting for a few years. I will be interested to see what people say about getting the motor started again after sitting for so long.

    Cleaning the frame? I have heard (not tried it) that oven cleaner works well.
     
  5. Sep 25, 2009
    Warloch

    Warloch Did you say Flattie??? Staff Member

    Falcon, CO
    Joined:
    Mar 4, 2003
    Messages:
    5,470
    I like to change the oil, add some MMO to each cyl and let it sit for a bit, turn them by hand after things have a chance to soak - maybe take a couple times like that depending on if you think it got wet or any moisture in the cyls.

    Check the hoses - spin up the oil to make sure I have preasure, fresh plugs, wires, check rotor, cap, coil. Make sure the carb is good before putting fuel in it (take it apart, clean check gaskets)...

    Other than the soak for the pistons the rest usually takes a day and I get them running.
     
  6. Sep 25, 2009
    LarryD

    LarryD Member

    Gallup NM/ 4 Corners
    Joined:
    Jul 7, 2006
    Messages:
    637
    Regarding the fuel, if sitting that long get rid of any fuel left in the system, in fact I like to use a remote tank made of a old gas can with a short length of fuel line connected to the carb. that eliminates a lot of variables like, are the fuel lines plugged, is the fuel filter pluged, is the fuel pump shot ect. Then make certian the batt is fully charged and start her up. This is after you confirm the engine is not stuck.
     
  7. Sep 25, 2009
    Oldyeller

    Oldyeller New Member

    Westminster,...
    Joined:
    Mar 3, 2004
    Messages:
    24
    What is MMO? And thanks for the engine check list.

    And Cleaning the frame is more of a question about best way to remove rust, prep fro welding, and prep for primer and paint.
     
  8. Sep 25, 2009
    bkd

    bkd Moderator Supreme Staff Member 2022 Sponsor

    K-Town Tenn.
    Joined:
    Apr 29, 2007
    Messages:
    3,294
    Marvel Mystery Oil.....get it at any flaps
    Jim S.
     
  9. Sep 27, 2009
    clay

    clay Driving

    Hopkinton, MA
    Joined:
    Aug 14, 2005
    Messages:
    338
    Frame sandblast. The oven cleaner is for the engine works great.
     
  10. Sep 27, 2009
    jflots

    jflots Member

    New Smyrna Beach, FL
    Joined:
    Sep 30, 2005
    Messages:
    308
    I can't find the photos but mine wasn't running when I got it. It turned over fine and wanted to fire but wasn't getting fuel. I was too impatient to wait for a new pump so I rigged a gravity feed set up using a pick up tube from a portable boat tank held vertically with a spring clamp and a funell in the top of the tube. It started and ran! I could watch the fuel level drop in the tube and topped it off with a Corona bottle (to avoid any confusion) filled with fuel as it ran. It worked great but some friends with children are nervous of their kids thinking vehicles can run on beer after seeing the pictures.
     
  11. Sep 28, 2009
    aallison

    aallison 74 cj6, 76 cj5. Has anyone seen my screwdriver?

    Green Cove...
    Joined:
    Nov 24, 2006
    Messages:
    1,929
    I'm working on my frame now. I'm in humid florida and so far the best thing I've found for rusty frame parts is to: clean with a degreaser (oven-off, purple stuff,etc), wire wheel it to remove loose paint and rust. Now I weld up anything that needs welding. In the areas paint is still good and no rust,just a quick wire wheel to roughen it up. Next get some rust converter. By far the best I've found is made by Permatex. It is in white bottle and says it's rust converter. it's not real expensice, like 7 bucks a bottle. Ithink walmart has it. FLAPS will. You brush it on, wait 20 minutes and give it another coat. All the red rust will be black. If not, add antoher coat until all the red is black. I've used up to 4 coats. It dries with a coating and the bottle says you can paint right over it. I do not. After I use the rust converter drys, I scuff sand it with a 220 paper using my hand. I only knock down the roughies. Then prime with a rustolum rusty metal primmer. Scuff sand with 320. Then paint. I use Tractor Supply Implemeint Paint and add their harnerner on the last coat of paint.

    So far, this is the only thing I can get to work.........

    And down the road, I can wire wheel it and weld to repair, add somthing, etc.
     
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