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Overheating

Discussion in 'Early CJ5 and CJ6 Tech' started by SkysTheLimit, Aug 26, 2009.

  1. SkysTheLimit

    SkysTheLimit Member

    So I have a new 3-core replacement radiator that I got from 4wd Hardware (I think it's bigger than the factory one too, as I had to fab new brackets to mount it). I also put in a 17" flex fan. So, the radiator has one extra core, and the fan is 2 or 3" larger than stock. I have a one inch fan spacer installed, and it keeps the fan 1" from the radiator at the bottom of the radiator (the engine sits at an angle so the top of the fan is further away from the radiator). Anyway, when I got the Jeep it didn't have a fan shroud, and I currently don't have one installed. The Jeep runs inconsistently hot and cool. Its okay for some time, then gets hot, then runs cool, then hot, etc, etc. It reaches 220 pretty easily when it gets hot, and one time it got to 235 before I noticed and shut it down. It has a brand new 160* thermostat in it, and when I fire it up for the first time and let it run, it will run right at 160*, then when it starts to heat up, it will run anywhere from 160* to 220*, up and down. If I put on a fan shroud, will this solve my problem and keep it running at 160-180? How much does the shroud help? I could also put a pusher fan on the outside (front) of my radiator, but it will cost more money, and electrical stuff does have the chance of failing. So, anyway, what do you think about the shroud, how much will it help? And where can I find one? I could make one if I have to, but getting tired of fabbing everything on my Jeep and factory/replacement shroud would be easy and look nice. Please help! I wanna go 'wheeling again this weekend. Thanks.
     
  2. Glenn

    Glenn Kinda grumpy old man Staff Member

    First question is are you positive it's really getting that hot? Do you have a mechanical or electric temp. gauge? The inconsistent temperatures are puzzling.
     
  3. Walt Couch

    Walt Couch sidehill Cordele, Ga. 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    Grab your fan with both hands and turn it. If you can slip it on the fan belt then the belt is too loose. Try drilling a hole in the T-stat. You may have some air still in the system. What is your total advance on timing? Are you running stock Dist or Elect?
     
  4. LarryD

    LarryD Member

    As Glenn said first thing is to verify the temperature reading is correct, a good mechanical gage or I use a meat thermometer, compare the readings on the thermometer to your temp gage.
    I don't personally have experience with the 225 CID but 220 is to hot. Yes a shroud will make a difference. I don't personally run an electric fan but if everything else is ok it shouldn't be necessary.
     
  5. Patrick

    Patrick Super Moderator Staff Member

    If this is a 225, drilling a hole in the T stat won't do anything, as they have a bypass hose.
     
  6. SkysTheLimit

    SkysTheLimit Member

    To try and answer everyone's questions...I am running a Delco distributor, one of the huge ones that looks kinda like the DUI distributors. My timing was advanced 6* when the issue first happened, then today I advanced it to 12*, it runs a very tiny bit better, but still gets hot. I put a new gage in it just recently, it is a mechanical one, the temp sending unit goes in through the intake manifold on the top of it, the only wires for the gage are for lighting it during nighttime. Since the gage is new, I assume it is working correctly, who knows...The fan turns when the engine is on, and when I rev it up, the fan flattens out a slight bit, as it is a flex fan. If I can spin the fan by hand with the engine off, that means the belt is too loose? Tightening it up till it won't spin by hand, can that really be the culprit? Is there something else I'm overlooking?
     
  7. Walt Couch

    Walt Couch sidehill Cordele, Ga. 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    You should not be able to slip the fan either left or right (unless it's a clutch fan) and this will cause slippage at various speeds causing your problem.
     
  8. Glenn

    Glenn Kinda grumpy old man Staff Member

    Personally I'd take that flex fan and toss it, and put on a stock fan. Even if it's not causing the heating problem those things are dangerous.
     
  9. birddog56

    birddog56 Member

    First off, verify if you are really gettin hot. If you are gettin hot and it is not a false reading , then I doubt your fan or lack of a sroud is causing it. It sounds like you are getting hot spots. I would remove the thermostat and see what happens. If no change , then look for air in the system. Rig up a hose adapter and run some water through the sytem until it overflows the radiator . If that doesn't help, change the water pump. I had a water pump with a loose impellor that acted similar.
    If the fan shroud was an issue , I would expect it to run hot and stay hot , not vary. If you aren't getting water through the radiator consistently, a fan shroud won't help. Also, make sure the radiator isn't partially blocked.
     
  10. SkysTheLimit

    SkysTheLimit Member

    Basically, it will creep higher and higher in temp until random changes in driving, and I don't know what or why. Sometimes it heats up on the road at consistent throttle, sometimes it will cool off from being hot if I drive that way. Sometimes when I'm creepin' on the trail it will get hot, and sometimes when I go from a faster road to trail creepin' it will cool off. However, I most always must change my driving habits before it will change temp. For running a hose through the system till it overflows the radiator, do I do this with the thermostat out and the engine off, or with thermostat in and the rig up to temp? What's the deal with the air bubble idea, how do I get the air bubble? Also, I installed an overflow tank and it seems a tad bit mirky now. The engine did sit idle for three years with me, and who knows how long before that, and the radiator was out for at least two if not closer to three of those years that it sat while I worked on it. Could there be rust in the block that is coming off now that it is running, and mirking up my coolant? Does my radiator need to be blown out maybe? How can I tell if the radiator is partially blocked, as Birddog said to make sure it isn't? Thanks for the help.
     
  11. alex211

    alex211 Member

    It sounds like the thermostat is not working correctly.
     
  12. texas62cj5

    texas62cj5 New Member

    First off I'm a newbie here so this is JMHO.

    Thermostats only set the Minimum Temp an engine operates at. IMHO they only help cool an engine by giving the radiator time to cool the coolant that is currently in the radiator.(My 97 TJ had no thermostat when I bought it and in the summer/traffic the gauge went UP)

    You have a new radiator and new thermostat. I will assume you flushed the system before they were installed. You mentioned the overflow is getting Murky. My guess would to be check your compression(cuz its cheap and sounds like a head gasket leak if all the obvious probs. are clear)

    Hope its something simple and cheap.

    TCJ
     
  13. Rozcoking23

    Rozcoking23 RUN & GET BIT! 2024 Sponsor

    I had the same problem. I put in a new thermostat and it started overheating then cooling back down. I changed that thermostat and i havnt had aproblem since. Sometimes thermostats are bad even if new.
     
  14. 47willys

    47willys Member

    If it has never run right with this thermostat in it my guess is that it is bad. They make radiator flush and radiator cleaner, 2 separate products that you can get at NAPA, but I haven't used it yet.
     
  15. Glenn

    Glenn Kinda grumpy old man Staff Member

    Your description definitely indicates an intermittent problem in cooling. Checking fan belt tension as mentioned, removing thermostat and checking for blockage maybe, and if none there trying another thermostat as also mentioned would be the things I'd try first.
     
  16. Tom in RI

    Tom in RI Member

    Lots of good advice here. I wanted only to add - did you install the shroud yet?
    In order for any fan to do a good job it should be set up in a properly sized shroud so that air isnt just escaping around the fan when it really needs to be pulling. In the late's, Chevrolet would deliver L88 corvettes without a shroud because the cars were supposed to be driven fast (raced) and never stop. When joe average bought an L88 and tried to drive it on the street it would overheat. The cure was a shroud.

    Is your overheating while driving? or sitting in the driveway?

    Tom
     
  17. SkysTheLimit

    SkysTheLimit Member

    Unfortunately, I did replace the thermostat already. I didn't know if the one in there was maybe a 190 or 210, so I went to replace it with a 160, and it already had a160 in it, but I replaced it anyway, and same thing. I have not made a fan shroud yet, gonna try to make one today. What's the chances that both thermostats don't work properly, even though both were new? If I go to a 180, and give it more time to sit in the radiator, you think it will actually keep the engine cooler overall? Also, the rig does not overheat sitting in the driveway, it overheats under load, and then if I pull over and let it idle for about 5-10 min, it will cool back down, but usually stops around 180, never really gets fully back down to 160.
     
  18. You will run cooler with a 190/195 thermostat than with a 160. These engines run better at this temp and the coolant stays in the radiator longer
     
  19. Patrick

    Patrick Super Moderator Staff Member

    Never heard of that. My 225 runs ~about 5 degrees warmer than whatever specific temp. thermostat I have in it.
     
  20. Vanguard

    Vanguard Take Off! Staff Member

    Sounds like you going to need to start tearing into it further. I'd start by draining the radiator and pulling the hoses. Run a garden hose into the top and watch for flow out the bottom. It that seems to be flow well, then its time for an $8 prestone backflush kit. Leave the radiator disconnected and backflush the motor/heater core. Reconnect the radiator and backflush again. Retest.

    If still hot, then it's probably time to bypass the heater core, backflush and retest. If that fails change the water pump and retest. After that it's radiator time. Also, if your motor is a transplant then poke around for a heater control valve. If you find one, bypass it.

    You might also look for an aftermarket filter in your hoses as a last resort.