'72 CJ-5 With 304 and "Painless" Wiring

Hello to all this is my first post, so forgive me.... I have a '72 Cj-5 with a 304, A few days ago I was having problems with the fuel bowl not filling enough and the float getting stuck at the bottom of the bowel, thus flooding the engine. I fixed the problem today but ran into another. The engine seems to want to start, it cranks over, plenty of spark, good fuel mix, but the min. I put the key to run it dies. I have replaced the coil with a MSD blaster 2 coil. A painless off road wiring set. All the fuses are good, I am stuck in a rut.....I tend to think I know what I am generally doing and am not afraid to admit when I have reached the end of my knowledge. And I am there, I would appreciate some words of wisdom or advice.


Thanks,
Green Beast

 

ignition switch or the wiring for the run circut is bad. More than likely the switch.

 

One way may help, go to Painless web site, download the prints for your harness and trace out your wires. Recheck the coil install also. May be coil as posted earlier. Hope this helps. Let us know.

 

Your losing 12v when your not cranking the engine. There should be an ign. wire that goes to the starter solenoid. Make sure its hooked up to a keyed on/crank 12v source.

 

This can also be a worn out ignition switch - a common problem. If the motor will crank, you can hot wire from the battery to the switch side of the coil, and see if it will run. This is only ok for a test; don't leave it connected this way for long. Not all harnesses use the ignition connection on the solenoid - check the diagram for your harness to be sure.

 

Thanks For All The Advice Guys, I am gonna check the ignition switch tomorrow. I replaced it a while ago, When I first tore part the Jeep to restore it, its been a modest build, doing what I can when I can. And I bought the cheapest universal switch I could find. So I will start there and I will be back tomorrow with the results!!!

Thanks Again

 

I got a new factory style ign. switch from Napa for about 23 bucks.

 

Ok I tried the Ignition Switch and nothing, same thing, I also tried replacing what looked like a burnt ignition wire. I used a piece of 14 gauge wire I had in my un-used wiring stuff. I am not for sure if the wire thickness has anything thing to do with the proper voltage getting from the starter regulator to the ignition switch then to the coil... Maybe I am just over thinking the problem and the situation. If anyone has any more suggestions PLEASE let me know

Thanks

 

Is there still a ballast resister in this?
Some used to have a wire that went from the starter to the coil to increase the voltage on a hot start, then the voltage thru the ballast resister would keep it running after starting.
I'm not familiar with the painless stuff so I hope I haven't confused things even more.

 

Yes, that's typical.

The starter solenoid has an "ignition" (I) terminal that can be used to give the coil a full 12V when starting. Alternately, some ignition switches provide the full 12V at startup. The ballast resistor is in the "run" circuit, from the ignition switch. A full 12V will make a somewhat hotter spark, but the coil may heat up after a while without a bllast resistor to limit current.

 

The line from the coil to the starter is omitted if there is no ballast resistor. Check your distributor points. May be that you had a little water and the points are all mucked. Did you do a standard tuneup on it?(Plugs, wire, cap)

 

That is where I was trying to hint to with original post, thought I might let them figure it out.
I'd be lost without my multimeters.

 

I just have the regular stater solenoid, its new as well. I think I am going to take the 4th and rewire the whole starter/ignition system. I have also have a resistor on the fire wall going to the coil that changes it from the 12v to about 6v or so, I don't have a multimeter yet, its among my wish list. I will let you guys know on the fourth how its going.

 

OK got her running, it was a burnt wire about 4 inches long in the wiring harness. I had to take the wiring harness apart to find it. But I got it running, Thanks for all the help and advise!!!

 

next question why was it burnt??? it would be a shame for it to happen again......the burnt wire may be a symptom not the cause.....

 

It got caught between the clutch lever and the back stop for it, so it got smashed and then shorted out, I would have never found it if I hadn't taken the dash out and started redoing the wiring. I have everything pretty nice and tight under the dash and this just happened....Thanks Again for all the help