Transmission Removal

I've stripped everything else off my CJ6 and it is now time to remove the transmission and transfer case. Since I've never done this before I thought I'd ask a few questions.

I'm supposed to support the back end of the engine. How do I do this? Can I just put a floor jack under the oil pan? Is the pan strong enough? I don't see anything else that I can use to support the engine.

If I use a transmission jack to help remove the transmission, how do I get it in place with the crossmember in the way?

Is it easier to remove the transfer case from the transmission first?

Should I remove the transmission from the bellhousing before removing the bellhousing?

If I have a couple of guys helping can I remove the transmission without a transmission jack?

When I unbolt the transmission will it just slide out? What about the transfer case?

I have the Buick 225, a T15 with an adapter plate to mate it to the bellhousing and a D18 transfer case. The adapter, T15 and D18 will all be removed and replaced. I have an SM420 and a different D18 to install. I'll post a message with my installation questions when the time comes.

Any advice will be appreciated.

Scott Bruns

 

I forgot to mention that the tub is off.

I'm not using a lift. All 4 wheels are still on the ground.

Scott

 

I guess I figured the back of the motor would weigh a lot. I guess I'm wrong.

Scott

 

I think I would support the rear/oil pan with a block of wood and a jack; safety issue
no need to have it fall out if one of the mounts is weak
by also doing this way, you can then remove the x member and mounts
then remove trans t/case as assembly or split apart; your choice

 

I ususally remove the transfer case separate because I'm usually working by myself. I support the oil pan with a piece of wood and a floorjack.

 

Floor jack, or cement block w/ piece of wood under the floor pan is a good policy.
I'd keep the x-fer case attached to the tranny. Unbolt the tranny from the x-member; unbolt the tranny from the adapter plate/bellhousing; remove the shifters (difficult if you have the twin-stick transfer case shifters); remove the rear driveshaft, and use a come-along anchored on the rear x-member to the tranny. It'll inch the tranny rearward until it drops onto your chest or the floor .

 

Thanks for the tips. Looks like this is easier to do than I thought it would be.

I already have everything disconnected. The driveshafts have been removed, the tub is off. The master cylinder, steering box, clutch and brake pedals, all gone.

Looks like all I have left to do is take out the bolts.

Thanks.

Scott Bruns

 

Any chance you could take some pictures to chronicle the job and post 'em for us later??

 

Funny you should mention it. Check out http://www.pbase.com/scottbruns/jeep_cj6

I just uploaded some new photos. I'll take many more as I pull and replace the transmission and transfer case.

Scott Bruns

 

I find it easier to remove the transfer case first, then reattach later.

 

Nice set of pictures! I'm a bit green with envie over the great condition of the floors and tub in general. We have so much rust on everything here in the northeast. In one of the last pictures showing the rear end, i noticed that there were two shocks for each side of the axle. Is that second shock stock from the factory or and add on?

 

Cool 8) Looks solid.

Maybe powerwash before disassembly though?

 

The dual shocks were added by a PO because he thought they looked cool. One was missing. They're gone now.

I did not think to powerwash the engine before I stripped the steering. Now I'm not so sure how I'd manuver it out of the garage. Also my driveway has a bit of a slope and I'd worry that it would get out of control, especially without the brakes.

You wouldn't think there was much rust from the photos but the whole rear floor was replaced due to rust. There is also some bondo in the body. I'm not doing a restore so I'm not going to address either at this time. My plan it to make sure it is easy to pull the tub again. After I get the mechanicals working and I've enjoyed driving it for a while I'll think about fixing some of the body issues. This is my first rebuild and I'm trying to keep the scope in check.

Scott Bruns

 

Scott.
If I was you i would look for a set of danna 44's for that jeep. maybe run full width axels. kewl.
I used to have a set but someone took the rear. I only have the front 44 now

 

I already have a set of D44s from a 78 Wagoneer waiting to be installed. Disc brakes up front. Real parking brakes out back. I'm planing on running them full width.

Scott Bruns

 

who

who is going to do the full width swap for you? what shop? or do you plan on doing it yourself.
I am doing the same thing with my CJ5

 

I'm planing to do it myself, with some help from my friends. I've participated in swapping axles before. It doesn't seem too hard.

I'm going to go back to SUA. The existing front axle perches are almost right on. The rear perches need to be installed new. I'll get a welding friend to do the actual welding for me. I don't trust my welds that much.

For me the big worry is in the rest of the details, brake lines, shocks, drive shafts, emergency brake hookup, steering, stuff like that. While those things are mostly just bolt on items, getting the right item to bolt on is what concerns me.

I'll have to see how I like running the wide axles. (Off the top of my head I think they are 10" wider than what I have right now.) If they don't work out I'll have to narrow them. (That job I'd have to leave to someone else. I've seen it done and it looks too much like work to me.) I'm a little concerned with the way the front axle lockuts stick out. Here in AZ anything that sticks out gets beatup by the rocks. I guess I'll have to keep the tires out there a ways. There's no doubt, this Jeep will have a solid stance.

Scott Bruns