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Disc brake conversion - caliper position

Discussion in 'Early CJ5 and CJ6 Tech' started by jayhawkclint, Aug 14, 2006.

  1. Aug 14, 2006
    jayhawkclint

    jayhawkclint ΜΟΛΩΝ ΛΑΒΕ

    Oklahoma City, USA
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    Stock D27 knuckles: I ground down my knuckles to where I can easily slide the caliper on and off. Now I have a "clocking" problem. From what I see, I've basically got two choices of caliper mounting position on the driver's side:

    At about the 1 o'clock position my calipers hit the kingpin bearing cap; even if I clearanced them a hair, I don't think I could connect the brake lines.

    At the 3 o'clock position the caliper hits the drain plug. The tech page does show a ground down draing plug, but doesn't specifically mention this step, and I'm not sure how I'd get it off afterward. I thought about installing a flush plug with one of those inverted 3/8 or 1/2 square drive sockets, but I don't think I'd be able to remove it without pulling the caliper off, which would suck if it ever became necessary to access on the trail.

    Am I missing something obvious here? Any ideas appreciated.
     
  2. Aug 14, 2006
    Posimoto

    Posimoto Hopeless JEEP Addict

    Minden, Nevada
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    You should replace the drain plug with the flush mount type you described. If you are using the Chevy style caliper, they come off pretty easily/quickly. Thats the standard setup for a D27.
     
  3. Aug 14, 2006
    grannyscj

    grannyscj Headed to the Yukon

    Anchorage, AK
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    From Steve's original article. Located in the paragraph where he discusses filling the knuckle w/ gear oil.
     
  4. Aug 14, 2006
    jayhawkclint

    jayhawkclint ΜΟΛΩΝ ΛΑΒΕ

    Oklahoma City, USA
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    :oops: Missed that part. Thanks.
     
  5. Jun 19, 2009
    SiLiconD17

    SiLiconD17 New Member

    Lutz, FL
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    Sorry to dig this up guys, but I'm in a bit of a pickle with finding a solution to the fill plug.

    I did some research and puchased a few steel 1/2" NPT pipe plugs with a recessed hex head (allen head type) from a local hydraulics shop and thought they would do the trick. They don't go in near far enough to clear the calipers still. I also tried several other pipe plug fittings with recessed heads of the same size off some different things that I had (AMC20 and Dana 30 axles, transfer cases, etc) and they went in the same depth.

    At this point my only solution seems to be either to tap out the knuckle a little wider, which would be my last resort. My other solution is to purchase the same 1/2" NPT recessed hex head plug in brass instead of steel (so it's easier for me to cut), and then basically cutting it in half on the vise.

    Did anyone else run into this or come up with any solutions?
     
  6. Jun 19, 2009
    djbutler

    djbutler Sponsor

    Rio Linda CA
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    Get a hold of a 1/2 NPT pipe die and run the new plug down into the die another couple of turns to cut the threads in the plug a little smaller. NPT is a tapered thread, so be careful not to take it too far down into the die or it will not seal tight in your knuckle.
    If you don't want to buy a die to use for a one time job, try a plumbing shop.

    Don
     
  7. Jun 19, 2009
    Patrick

    Patrick Super Moderator Staff Member

    Los Alamos, NM
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    My dad just (like last weekend) went thru this. Like mentioned above, he used flat plugs (3/8" square drive) and ground the ends down so they would clear the stub axle/ axle.
     
  8. Jun 21, 2009
    birddog56

    birddog56 Member

    Pennsylvania
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    You definately don't want to be in the 1 oclock position. The calipers must be behind the axle to bleed properly. In addition to the above listed optins , you can knock off the male square on your plug and put in a femal square or hex. Drill the center out, then heat it up and knock in a cut allen wrench, or torx, or whatever. Remove the allen after the plug cools, run a die over the threads and your set.
    The other option , and a lot more difficult, is to weld the old mount holes shut and put ne ones in where you want them. I made my caliper mounts from scratch and they clear the plug as well as the knuckle. No grinding.
     
  9. Jun 21, 2009
    Mcruff

    Mcruff Earlycj5 Machinist

    Albertville, AL
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    NPT plugs that have the hex socket come in both dry and wet seal with the dry seal being longer. If you have a choice go with the wet seal as they are about 3 threads shorter, other than that you are stuck with running a die over them.
     
  10. Jun 21, 2009
    n6ifp

    n6ifp Member

    San Bruno/...
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    I used the aluminum plugs that come with outdoor electrical boxes. They are only about 1/2 inch deep. I got that at my local hardware store. They had a scredriver slot in them and a hex. They worked for me. Larry
     
  11. Jun 21, 2009
    Patrick

    Patrick Super Moderator Staff Member

    Los Alamos, NM
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    If you use GM calipers, they are in the 1 o'clock position on a factory application...
    Why do they have to be behind the axle to bleed? As long as the bleeder is above the brake line port, they should bleed.
     
  12. Jun 21, 2009
    birddog56

    birddog56 Member

    Pennsylvania
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    Too quick of an answer on my part. I should have said that ford had problems bleeding brakes with the caliper in front when they were desgning some earlier trucks. The caliper should be to the center of the vehicle for protection, but you are correct, as long as the bleeder is above the port, they should be ok. I personally have never tried to bleed a caliper mounted on the front of an axle , so anything I say is conjecture in that regard.
     
  13. Jun 21, 2009
    Patrick

    Patrick Super Moderator Staff Member

    Los Alamos, NM
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    Ain't that the truth! R)
     
  14. Jun 22, 2009
    mortten

    mortten I can’t put my finger on it 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    Peninsula, Ohio
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    This is what I used also. Everything cleared no problem.
     
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