v6 clutch: cable: snap: replace clutch?

I've been doing alot of research on my v6 clutch. Its very hard, as soon as I put a new cable in, its guarenteed to snap soon. I rigged up a system with chain and vise grips(those things are mighty strong! and make adjustment easy) that works pretty well, but thats not right. So anyways I was going to throw in a hydraulic system like I did with my 74, but read in many threads that the cable should be just fine. Alot of people can push it down with there hands!

Once you get mine to the floor, its easy to hold it there, but getting it down will give you arthritis quick. I can't imagine what this would be other then the springs stiffening up from sitting for ten years. Will they eventually loosen, or is it "drop 200 bucks time" and put in a new clutch? I assume this would certainly solve the issue right? Allowing a cable to operate my clutch very easily? Eh, everytime I turn around, it seems to be "drop 200 bucks time" again.

This is a t14a tranny

 

I recall a member here who had installed a LUK or other brand high dollar, stiff spring clutch, high performance clutch. Even with hydraulics, (and swinging pedels) it was a pain in the rear to depress the clutch pedal.....I would have ditched that set-up in a heart beat.

My clutch is stock, factory diaphram type, V6, with one piece cable.
And yes, you can depress the clutch pedal with your hand (easily).
This clutch is still the original clutch which was installed at the time of my V6 conversion (1983) The clutch cable is still the original cable.

The stiffer the springs in the pressure plate, the more resistance and harder it will be to depress the pedal, regardless of manual or hydraulic system.

As a side note, my clutch cables ( I carry a spare) were factory Jeep cables, no longer available. I understand some of the Crown or aftermarket cables out there are not as good.....from what others have said.

 

yes, but the Jeepster cables pulled up thru the floor and had their own seperate issues as well as being a different cable design.

 

Just an idea for you. check to make sure that the battery ground strap between engine and frame is good.i have seen instances were the cable became the ground and would burn up and seize in housing.

mike s.

 

No my clutch is just really stiff. Its gotta be from sitting, and I don't know if it will free up or not. The clutch grabs great.

I also know about the cables being inferior, but there is definitly something wrong with this clutch.

I probably would stay away from hi performance clutches anyways, figuring the stock clutches would be enough, and hi performance have stiffer springs. I'm sure this clutch has to work better in its hayday.

I was just wondering if anyone else maybe experienced this problem before. I guess my only option is to put a new stock clutch in?

 

All clutch pressure plates for V-6 application were mfgd by Borg Beck.

The early V-6's used the Borg Beck diaphram type clutch.
The diaphram type clutches generally have a smooth engagement with immediate full plate activation pressure. It has a total plate pressure of 1600 PSI

I believe the first three finger Borg Beck clutches appear in about 1968.
These have a total plate pressure of 1765 PSI.
With this type of clutch partial engagement can be much better regulated.

Both of these pressure plate types use the same Borg Beck driven disk.

I have seen the cable type of clutch control used as early as 1968.
In theory it seems it should be superior to the lever and tube system but ...

A friend of mine who has operated his jeep parts wharehouse for many
years tells me he too had trouble with his 1971 CJ cable control.
Apparently the cable acts as an engine ground.

Besides just correcting the grounding issue I would advise use of a
powdered form of soapstone (nonconductive) as a cable lubricant.

 

i too have a very stiff clutch due to the p.o.installing a hi performance clutch. obviously he has not spent much time on the trail trying to engage the thing over and over, for hours and hours. ouch. Needless to say...... when i have the opportunity i am going to change it back to the stock clutch. I also had to replace the old cable. the new one $27 Crown Cable is working very well for the moment and with the original clutch i can see it lasting a very long time.

 

I've never ever heard or seen this condition happen...in theory I suppose it could (and it has I guess)
just thinking of all the other ground issues that would have to exist for this to happen...I mean, what would the odds be ?
starnge for sure

 

I recall reading something in the CJ Rebuilders Manual by Moses Ludel.
In it I believe he promotes the use of the Centerforce brand clutch.

The Centerforce clutch is of the diaphram type having an additional unique feature.
As the engine RPM increases so does the plate PSI via centrifugal force.
This design is more in line with a high RPM race engine and it will not benefit the typically low RPM Jeep operations.
So while the Centerforce brand may be an excellent quality product,
I am not convinced that it is an ideal design for serious off road useage.

Myself I own a couple of NOS Borg Becks One being the diaphram type and the other with the 3 finger type release.
My personal preference is for the three finger type since it allows you to more readily "slip" the driven disc upon engagement.
Besides it has a somewhat higher plate pressure that is good when I feel like skidding logs.
This is the very same clutch used in the last few years for ECJ5's.
All in all I feel that late Kaiser ECJ5 had it nearly perfected right from the git go.