Rear main seal??

Jeeps a 1959 CJ5 Willys, engine is a 134 "F" head. Orderd a rear main seal - received a felt pro# BS3165 , rope seal type. engine apart rear main seal is not a rope type but a newer design with a metal backing, parts people thank it may be a Victor's #JV 687. Any of Y'all got any ideas??
Victor is a sub for the rope the rope will still work?
Rope Vs. Victor which is better??
Thanks for the help
Rusty

 

My typo your are right F not L

 

Rubber seal is better IMO. Rope seal is cheap but a PITB to install with the crank in place. Can't put a rope seal in backwards though - that may be one advantage.

 

Rubber seal in backwards, - Old one may have been in backwards leaking bad. tell me the lip of the seal is it out to clutch side or inboard to sling ring on crank??
Thanks Rusty

 

Not sure from your description if the present seal is backwards or not. The lip of the seal points inward, toward the oil, so that any oil pressure pushes it tighter against the crank. The new seal has instructions on the box, at least the Felpro ones do.

 

Does anyone have a part # for the rubber seal and, for that matter the rubber valve cover seal for the f head?

 

Do you happen to have a Felpro # for the rubber main seal ?

 

Definitely use a Felpro brand. I am not sure of the part number, but I got mine at Checkers auto for 18.00. If I remember right I had to reference a 1970 or so JEEP to be able to have them look it up in their computer. Any JEEP with a F134 will do. JUst have to keep bugging them. It consists of two rubber dowel looking pieces and the two half moon seals (no rope seal). BTW do not trim/cut the rubber dowel seals as they are supposed to protrude and compress.

 

Great! Thanks much.

 

Update.

Felpro part# BS3165 is now a Rope type seal. I ordered it twice last week from a local parts store and both times a rope seal arrived. I even called Felpro. Rope seal only for this part#...if that wasn't bad enough, they guy told me that they have always made the rope for this part number and never had a lip type seal for this engine. Hmmm what a genius. I know I ordered one just a little over 2 years and it was the wide lip seal. Now I have 2 short rope types to squeeze in and hope they seal up where they meet. I also got a Sneaky Pete for another $32.

 

If you are still messing with this, I'd advise you seek out the molded rubber seal. Try a different parts store, or maybe give one of the Jeep specialist places a call, like Walck's or Turner. You can do the sneaky pete thing if you really want to, but I think your parts store is not working very hard for your money, and you can do better with the rubber seal.

 

I ran into the same thing this winter when I rebuilt my engine. Felpro no longer had the rubber type seal, only the rope type. The rope seal seems to be doing ok in the engine.

 

I'm going to try it this weekend. I have the bearing cap off, the other 2 loosened and picked up the sneaky pete today. I hope I can get it in there with the crank still in place. I found several mistakes that the machine shop did when they put it back together. First I noticed that they put gasket sealer on the flat surface where the cap meets the block. Then the dowls had no sealer in the holes and no sealer where the 2 halves meet. It was starting to leak pretty bad and I only now have 180miles on my frame off resto (complete rebuild). I should have put the engine back together myself after they did the machine work. Wish me luck with the rope seal. If it doesn't work out, I'll be pulling the motor.

 

Wow, I would think they would cover their work if you only have 180 miles on that engine and already in it. Good luck.

 

Read this link; this guy had major problems with the molded seal. The rope maybe a PITA to install but it won't cause bearing failure

http://earlycj5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=62849&highlight=rear+main+seal+failure

 

They would, if i wanted to pull the motor and bring it to them and hope they don't mess anything else up. I've had one hell of a time with them already. Had to pull the motor and bring it back to them right after I installed it since I had no compression...they accidentally put the L-head head gasket in.

 

Hey 53Willy's, how did the sneaky pete work for you? I have a 55 m38a1 and I already tried installing 3 rear seals before I found the threads refering that the crankshafts were the problem and some were too big. Since I dont have the $ right now to have it machined down to .230 Im gonna use the sneaky pete and felt pro seals, waiting on the tool so i can start. So any tips from anyone who's used a sneaky pete, it would be really great since im already annoyed with this issue

 

So far, so good. I've put around 120miles on it and no more puddles. The sneaky pete was a little tricky and slipped off 3 times but once I placed the correct amount of rope in it, everything worked out. I was concerned about having too much rope in the tool and not being able to get the tool off the rope without over pulling the rope. It was also a little tough trying to get a razor knife close enough to the crank to cut the excess off but I was able to do it with a little time and patience.

Happy with results so far...oh and no more synthetics, 15-40 Rotella only.

 

interesting, i had no trouble getting the rubber rear main seal, dont have the part #, but if i recall, it was a victor seal, the complete set was felpro and came with the rope