rust in my M.C.!

my brake pedal wouldn't move a bit in my new to me 63 cj5.
i took off the m.c. and lo and behold the piston seems to work just fine.
i dumped the fluid out and there is what is a dead ringer for rust inside of the reservoir.
that means everything is toast i would assume.
i wonder if my brakes are rusted solid and thats why the pedal wouldnt move?
what say you o gurus?

so what do i need?
a round of cylinders for the house.
a buncha tubing.
some crazy flaring tool ive never seen before.
line nuts.
shoes?
and all the other stuff i know nothing about.

if i have to start replacing all the wiring ,brakes, etc.
i am in over my head .
i cant afford this hobby.....

 

Hehe... I'm (my parents) were in prolly 8K and I barely got to drive it. Another grand in paint, some in seals and it may actually be done!
Brake fluid sops up moisture over time. Lines are one thing I don't touch. But, they're not bad. Someone who knows more about these will chime in.
You can hone all cylinders IIRC
Do you have a FSM? It shows everything and is very hand.

 

Brakes are something I don't try to cobble together. I put everything new on mine.
M/C - $25
Stainless Lines - $165
4 Drums - $200
4 Wheel Cylinders - $30
Brake Shoes - $40
All new Hardware - $20

Around $500 total. Brakes work perfect, just like new.

 

whats IIRC?
whats FSM?


p.s.
i dont have any money and my parents lived and died poor.

 

If I Recall Correctly
Factory Service Manual

You can google acronyms - then you won't have to wait for an answer.

I would get a new master cylinder. If money is really tight, you can try to rebuild it, but sometimes they don't last very long.

If this Jeep has sat out and not been driven for a while, you're going to have to go through the brakes completely.

For brake parts, your friendly local auto parts store (FLAPS) may be able to help you. You'll do better if you go to a regular parts store, and not a chain store like Autozone or Pep Boys. If no luck at the FLAPS, try www.rockauto.com - conventinal parts stores will be cheaper than the specialty Jeep places.

 

unbent lines are cheap. Flairing to length isnt hard with a good tool which isnt all that expensive either. Having the drums resurfaced is very cheap and good as new or better because of the crappy new metals as long as the old ones arnt crackd. Theres no mystery about a jeep drum brake system theyre very simple theres info on them everywhere. Just tackle it and get it done if you dwell on it too long youll be overwhealmed.

 

so far NAPA has had the m.c. and /or the repair kits in stock.
(i was suprised)

 

If everything is trashed (in my opinion rust = trash when it comes to brakes), might be a good time to convert to hanging pedals and vacuum assisted or hydro brakes. Not sure what your long term restoration goals are, but late model donor parts are probably going to be cheaper than replacing everything back to OE, and will yield better performance, too.

Boyink did a good writeup on an S-10 master cylinder with modified pedals.
I did the same with equally plentiful Cherokee XJ parts.
You should also do a search here or in Google for Mustang hydro brakes.
If you want to do some hunting, intermediate pedals will swap in easily, too.
Buy brake line by the roll, whole JEEP will probably cost you $25.
Manual flare tool and brass fittings will probably be another $50 or so.
A lot of guys throw out their 10" brake parts for the trash man, might be a super cheap upgrade over the stock 9" on there now, might even get decent wheel cylinders and shoes in the deal as a bonus.

And as for the expense of the hobby, well, it's in the name:
Just
Empty
Every
Pocket

 

where did you find those parts at those prices?
did you buy them in 1970?
m.c. for 25 bucks?

 

that was a joke^


kinda.....

 

Why don't you try placing a want to buy add here in our classified section, A lot of people upgrade their brake system and throw out the old parts, I would have given my old brake parts away just for the cost of shipping. maybe you can gather together some original parts and buy some new just to get you up and going and worry about upgrading later.

 

thats a good idea.
thanks cap'n!

 

Autozone. Current price, $27.99


http://www.autozone.com/R,2567162/v...partType,00007/shopping/partProductDetail.htm


Here is a drum. $50.00

http://www.autozone.com/R,325835/ve...partType,00835/shopping/partProductDetail.htm


Wheel cylinders have gone all the way up to $12

http://www.autozone.com/R,5128560/v...partType,00763/shopping/partProductDetail.htm

Stainless brake lines are $169.99 at Quadratec today. Things have gone up a little bit, but not much

 

Rather than buying drums, I would upgrade to 11" brakes. You can do this with scrounged parts, but kits are available that are comparable to the cost of refurbishing the original 9" brakes. This is a very popular upgrade.

I would not buy many new parts for the 9" brakes if money were tight. Instead I would look for good used drums and wheel cylinders, and rebuild the wheel cylinders. Used parts for 9" brakes should be cheap or free. I would definitely spring for a new master cylinder though, esp. if I were keeping the single-cylinder type MC.

 

your numbers are for a 1972
mine are for a 1963


front cylinders $43

rear cylinders $40
they dont carry the m.c.
the kit is $28
front drum $157.99
rear drum $44.99

 

a member here contacted me.
something with 10 inch brakes may happen...