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Truely Stumped...Stumped!

Discussion in 'Early CJ5 and CJ6 Tech' started by '63, Feb 8, 2009.

  1. Feb 8, 2009
    '63

    '63 New Member

    The Great...
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    So, I bouhgt a '63 willy's it has the F-Head engine, I was able to drive it after we got the brakes on. One day I noticed my oil pressure guage rising and falling. I called my Dad who is a mechanic(30yrs. pro Exp.) come to find out the oil dipstick tube had weird milky looking oil/coolant in it. Diagnosis Blown head gasket. Well, after two or three oil changes magnafluxing the cylinder head and even having it machined flat, the milky oil is still there. Now I know what you're thinking(Cracked Engine Block) we were too but the kicker is that I'm not losing coolant and the engine block looks dry as a bone??? Any Ideas?
     
  2. Feb 8, 2009
    jayhawkclint

    jayhawkclint ΜΟΛΩΝ ΛΑΒΕ

    Oklahoma City, USA
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    new head job bad, cracked block.
    Posted via Mobile Device
     
  3. Feb 8, 2009
    PeteL

    PeteL If it wasn't for physics, and law enforcement... 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    Hills of NH
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    Are you driving it enough to get the engine fully warmed up, and evaporate any moisture in the oil? Thermostat good? PCV system okay?

    Pete
     
  4. Feb 8, 2009
    Walt Couch

    Walt Couch sidehill Cordele, Ga. 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    cordele, Ga.
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    If your not loosing coolant like you say, then it is condensate. Can't be anything else. Gas in oil won't usually turn milky on dip stick. If the dipstick does not have a good seal around the tube it will draw in cold air and will condense on the dip stick. Could be the pblm.
     
  5. Feb 8, 2009
    blevisay

    blevisay Oh Noooooooooooooooo! Staff Member

    Portland Tn.
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    Pressure test the cooling system.
     
  6. Feb 8, 2009
    jeeper50

    jeeper50 jeeps 'till I die

    Spanish Fort. AL
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    Yep. what he said. Check cooling sytem. F heads can have a problem with cracks around the #2, #3 exhaust valve seat. Mine had two and also had a milky residue at the top of the oil fill tube, ended up rebuilding mine and having the cracks metal stitched. Hope that's not what you find.
     
  7. Feb 8, 2009
    Bruce Hamilton

    Bruce Hamilton oldjeeps

    West Newbury, MA
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    How about checking the crank case ventilation system.
     
  8. Feb 8, 2009
    w3srl

    w3srl All-around swell dude Staff Member

    Port Orange, FL
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    What Billy said. Any shop or maybe even your FLAPS will have a leak-down tester that pressurizes the cooling system. If it leaks down over time, there is sleak somewhere in the system.

    If you don't find any leaks, you aren't loosing coolant and the oil looks OK when drained then you've likeley got condensate as mentioned. Very common with old engines that get only short trips where the oil never really gets up to temps for long enough to burn off the moisture the accumulates.
     
  9. Feb 9, 2009
    '63

    '63 New Member

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    Well I know it's not condensate cause the iol has a grey tint to it after i've driven it for a few days. Thanks for the thought though. I think we're going to press the cooling system as our last hoorah before going switching engines. I don't feel comfy with a metal stitched block( heard to many stories). Should I go Vortec V-6 if I have too switch?
     
  10. Feb 9, 2009
    PeteL

    PeteL If it wasn't for physics, and law enforcement... 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    Hills of NH
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    True what Jeep50 says about cracks by the valve seats. But I've had them repaired sucessfully with threaded plugs inserted along the crack.

    I will add that I've always thought some gray-ish 'milkshake' in the oil filler tube was pretty much ordinary in F-heads. If you aren't losing any coolant, maybe you are within normal condensate limits?

    Good luck.
     
    Last edited: Feb 9, 2009
  11. Feb 11, 2009
    '63

    '63 New Member

    The Great...
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    well I was wrong!! We pressed the cooling system and it held 7lbs for longer than two min. So we think it's just the combo of bad residule oil and condensate on the dip stick. thanks for the advice guys it really helped. Glad I didn't have to cop-out to a newer engine :0)
     
  12. Feb 11, 2009
    Dbarker

    Dbarker KE5MOF

    Stillwater, Oklahoma
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    see, worried about nothing.

    change your oil, filter etc. then go have fun.
     
  13. Feb 11, 2009
    mdbeck1

    mdbeck1 55 Willys CJ5

    Oklahoma
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    Read the label on the Berryman B-12 can and apply to the oil. It might get rid of the junk in the pan.

    I've also seen the guys on this forum talk about using seafoam(?). That should get the engine cleaned out some and it's a lot less costly than an engine.
     
  14. Feb 11, 2009
    Dbarker

    Dbarker KE5MOF

    Stillwater, Oklahoma
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    seafoam and berryman b-12 FTW...
     
  15. Feb 11, 2009
    Vanguard

    Vanguard Take Off! Staff Member

    Vista, CA USA
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    BTDT. Get a $8 prestone kit and backflush the cooling system. Drain and refill with new 50/50 coolant mix. Use prestone or the storebrand premix. I like the NAPA brand premix myself.

    Don't use the Sierra coolant. My F-head made that stuff milkshake.
     
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