is 6 feet sufficent to replace fuel supply line?

WIll a 6 foot 5/16 section replace the factory run? I have a completely incorrect one to address so no template to go by.

 

Good question. I need to know also. It seems all the PO's do the same temporary fixes to all of our jeeps.

 

Should be plenty. I have a 258, from the tank, it has a hard green plastic line almost to where it meets the steel line on the frame. So there is a short 4" section there of rubber to connect the plastic to the steel line. The steel runs up the frame to within 18" or so of the fuel pump. The rubber is used to connect the steel line to the pump. Running out of the pump is steel line, up and over the valve cover to a little 2" section of rubber line, the fuel filter, another little 2" section of rubber connecting to a short piece of steel line to the carb.

I'd shoot ya some pics, but we got buried with two more feet of snow in 4 hours last night, so it's not the time to go crawling around the jeep....not a big fan of cold.

Any 5/16" rubber you have left over you can use to refresh a line or two to your evap canister, should you still have one. As those lines get old and crack, you sometimes start to get the gasoline odor under the hood. Might as well replace.

 

on the 304, I understand the hard line runs to just past the driver side engine mount, then probably aims at a reasonable angle to put the hose toward the fuel pump.

about where in the rear does the hard line terminate? I have that plastic hose as well, which is currently connecting in the vicinity of the driver side upper shock mount. Unfortunately all this is happening on the outside of the frame rail.

Does this plastic line fatigue? in my case it looks far thinner (it's black) then the rest of the materials, although the hose used fits it. The jeep makes it seem it's possible on the supply run to have almost all hardline to the tank, with just enough hose to install it/drop it. Not sure if this is as it should be. Seems that plastic stuff has at least some intended length of run, I would suspect it's better than rubber and has some flexibility.

My largest reason with asking about length is inlinetube sells straight (I think) 6 foor stainless runs, which if it's sufficient beats getting a coil for both simplicity and cost. (unless you need it for more Jeeps).

 

I replaced the rubber hose put in by the PO with stainless. You can buy a bender from Harbour Freight cheap enough and run the new line inside the frame (use adel clamps with rubber) and make it a lazy Saturday project. It's easier if you jack the whole jeep up about a foot prior to starting. It seems like mine took a couple of hours. I also added a fuel shutoff valve underneath. The last five or six inches are rubber line.

 

My plastic line from the tank terminates right about the same place yours does only on the passenger side. I found that green plastic to be tough as hell, not easy to cut at all.

I guess what you decide will all depend on how much work you're willing to do.
I just replaced the rubber bits, easy to do, and I've no leaks, fuel or air.

 

thanks, so the assumption that the steel line on a 304 74 terminates and then goes to the plastic line around the area of the upper shock mount is likely correct then, and terminates in the front in front of and away from of course the engine mount, bending off to a logical angle to supply the pump, with the usual effort to keep hoses short and neat.

I was inclined to replace the plastic due to age, but now it sounds just fine to leave it. It is in good condition.

I have no leaks. My catalyst to doing this is:

my fuel line now is running.....
outside the drive frame rail.
from front, over the rail, behind the shock boot, then to the obvious LOWER edge of the frame rail, UNDER the body mount metal 'outrigger' on the frame (VIBE and off road pinch point), then along the rail at this established low point now (hey why bend it any better after that first one, right?)
Then it stops right in front of the upper shock mount and a 5" section of hose meets the plastic line, so I have rubber hose OVER the shock mount and it's metal 'ears'.

I have just about exorcised this Jeep of all that the PO touched, the fuel line and redoing the header gaskets are all that remain. Although I think he said he rebuilt the carb, so I'll probably begin looking for a good source of totally rebuilt 2100s, although she does run.

I have a bender, and she's way up in the air as I redid the entire suspension, shackles, brakes mechanical to backing plates blasted and painted, and will be doing brake hydraulics and lines so might as well do fuel right.



Lastly, was the stock 5/16 line clipped in like the brake lines with push ins, or was it screwed down with adels? seems the latter is likely preferable regardless.

 

I put all my wiring and fuel lines inside the frame. It looked so nice in there with the brake lines.... ...also protects it from just about anything I could ever get in to. Of course it also makes it a pain to work on if I don't have a jack that will lift it off of the ground.

 

I went to tackle this today. I am highly confused.

I was attempting to use steel 5/16 line.
Going along the top of the driver frame rail, inside, above/behind Prop valve, it seems to be a logical run.

Then you hit the boxed frame....Am I supposed to be going through this and out the hole before the brake line pass through?

Seems impossible with the consistency of this steel line to bend this as I go. Alumn might make it possible.

Trying to go on the top of the frame rail causes close quarters with the clutch pivot rod...That doesn't seen right to me (keep in mind I still have yet to see the factory run either on a jeep or a pic for a 304).