What are these?!

Doesn't really matter one way or the other to me. It is licensed and titled as a '71.

 

Not trying to be picky but titling itas a 71 model means nothing it if actually has different equipment than a 71. In that time period that would have been quite a few differences. we have lots of guys on here that have titled vehicles that are titled as the next years model and in some cases models that are almost 2 years farther in production.

 

Hate to get back on topic but:
Does that steering box have bolts in the lower tabs? The box is either 3 or 4 bolt, two being on top and 1 or 2 on the bottom depending on the box, this looks like only the top two are being used. Guessing that is why the angle iron cross brace holding the top.

Do have to agree that is some scary fab work. I've also never seen a floor modified like that, guess they need more foot room. Most people cut the rear fender to move the seat back.

 

Looks like there are 2 unused bolts on the bottom of the steering box. I'm not sure what you see on the floor. Looks like a simple floor pan on what looks like some por-15 coated origional floor. Anyone know where I can get a bolt on bracket for that steering box?

 

Advanced Adapters has a weld on kit, page isn't working this morning.

FS Jeeps (at least Waggys) have a bolt on plate for the steering box. Not sure how it matches to the Jeep frame but could probably get a picture this evening, if I can find it.

 

. . . what's not stock?


Ummm . . . . I'll take steering for 10 Bob!

 

Pretty much requires welding. If you read the sticky thread on the Fabrication forum, there are some plans for a bracket that Mike (Mcruff, resident master machinist) posted. Lots of good background info there. You could have that bracket made and a local shop could weld it for you.

If the bottom two tabs on the steering box aren't connected to anything, IMO it's time to cut it all off and redo it.

Floors look original to me except for the pop-riveted patches.

 

I see the pictures of the bracket but I can't find the plans for it. Can somebody guide me to some plans so I can have one fabricated?

I also noticed that mine is is mounted lower than what I"m seeing on the pics around here. Is this a big deal? I was thinking that maybe I could just fab a bracket for it's current location so I wouldn't have to mess with anything else. Here's some pics...

 

From the tech pages:

 

Time for head gaskets I see, too.

 

You mean the coolant leak? I think that's coming from the freeze plug. Looks oily above it but not wet.

Did the Commando use the rag joint? (that rubber disk thing) I know the Wagoneer did. usually the cross-member is notched to clear the steering shaft... maybe that's why the steering gear is mounted low?

Plans could be in the gallery - I'll look.

 

Here is a link to the drawings I made.
http://www.earlycj5.com/tech/steering/saginaw/saginaw.php I can also make the parts for you at a pretty decent price if your interested. I have made probably 20-25 of them over the years.
The location depends, I don' like them mounted to low or cocked at to much of an angle but there is room to move it around to some degree.

 

Mcruff,
I might take you up on your offer. I still have some concerns about the location. It's currently mounted 1.5 inches away from the rail and that rag joint maybe has .25 inch clearance from the crossmember. I can see your mount working with the current setup if the box itself is leveled from where it is. If it's leveled, it will put an increased angle at the rag joint. Will it take that much of an anlge? As is sits right now, theres not much angle at all. Also, if your mount is only .5 inches thick and it's current location is 1.5 inches away, it would move the box 1 inch closer to the rail which might make the rag joint hit the rail. Would it be possible to either use thicker plate, double up the plate, or maybe just make the bolt risers 1 inche longer than what you currently have? Of course none of this takes into consideration that your bracket would position my box higher than it currently is.

Would you be able to custom make a bracket that would allow me to use my current steering componants?
Here's some more pics of what I'm refering to...

 

Get rid of the rag joint and buy a U-joint. Yes, it's going to cost a couple dollar ($80ish probably cheaper online) but his will cure you clearance issues and be a much better joint.

in the picture you can see the rag joint (that is being replaced) and almost the u-joint on the steering box, the D-shaft slips into the joint.

 

I agree on getting rid of the rag joint. They wear very easy and chances are yours is wore now if its been on there for more than a couple of years. I would also caution against moving the mounting plate away from the frame as it amplifies the leverage the box has against the frame and causes way more flex on the frame rail. I would not skimp in this area at all, take the whole thing apart and do it right instead of trying to make a previous owners mess work. I would hate to see you in an accident because of a steering failure.

 

I think I'm ready to get this steering taken care of. Would it be too much to ask for someone to make a list of everything I might need to fix this problem? I really don't like starting a project without all of the parts available to me. Mcruff, I would appreciate a quote on your mounting bracket and anything else you think I might need. Also, are the steering wheel and column ok or should I upgrade those as well?