powermaster alternator install issues

I'm installing a powermaster (47140) on my '76 CJ7 w/304 V8 and it appears that the battery post on the alternator is going to hit my oil pressure sending unit unless I swing the alternator all the way out (not sure I even have enough travel for that). Ideally, I'd like to be able to separate the front and back of the alternator and rotate the back so that the battery post is out away from the engine instead of up against the oil pressure sending unit.

Did anyone else have any issues like this? I guess I just thought it was going to be more of a direct bolt in...:?

 

I had the same problem with mine on my 225. You can "clock" your alt, by carefully removing the bolts that hold the case on the alt and slowly turning the back of the alt untill you get the post where you want it. Some one will speakup here if I am wrong, but that is what I had to do to my Powermaster and it worked just fine

 

If the alt is designed with a single mounting front housing, yes you can clock it. Some are held together with three thru bolts (clock three positions only) while others have four thru bolts (four position clock). You remove the bolts and seperate the stator section (middle part) from the front housing just a slight amount (1/16") and no more, and rotate to desired position that will line up with the bolt holes and re-tighten. Some alternators are not clockable such as the Mopar types due mounting bracket on both front and back have to stay aligned.

 

Don't pull the halves apart unless you know the toothpick trick to get them back together. Like Walt wrote, just enough to clock and no more.

 

Thanks guys!...just what I wanted to hear...I'm glad I checked with you before separating...I would have just pulled em apart...

 

Timgr, you tease!
Speak up man!
What is the "toothpick trick?"
TIA

 

Oh ... from the reaches of distant memory. I was trying to keep the post short. Plus it's been more than 30 years.

When you pull the two halves apart, the brushes extend on their springs. You can't put the halves back together then because the commutator interferes with the brushes. The housing has a hole in it, so if you put a toothpick (or some similar nonmetallic item) in the hole, the toothpick will hold the brushes back until you put the halves together. When the housing is together, you pull the toothpick out and the brushes contact the commutator.

Kind of long-winded, but that's the gist of it.

<edit> It's in the FSM - the FSM says the hole is in the brush holder, but the toothpick will protrude outside the case.

 

30 years? You've been away from it a while I do a lot of alternator work, so I do this trick all the time. You can do it with a piece of wire (.035 welding wire is strong enough, barely, a straightened paper clip works better), but you HAVE to make sure you pull the wire before you hook up the battery or you get to fix more parts in the alternator. There are actually two holes, one in the housing, the other in the brush holder. Be sure to push your toothpick or wire in far enough to catch the second hole. If you only use the hole in the housing the brushes won't be retracted far enough and you risk breaking them or breaking your toothpick trying to lever them into place. When you pull the wire or toothpick, listen carefully for two clicks as the brushes snap into place. If you hear one or none, take the alt back apart to see what's going on.

 

If you prefer to NOT mess with the alternator... purchase 1- Close ALL THREAD metal nipple, 1- 1" Nipple and 2- 90 degree elbows. Now using teflon tape on all threads!..
1. Remove the oil pressure sensor!
2. Install the close nipple in place of the press. sensor.
3. Install the elbow, and set in the direction best suited.
4. Install the 1 1/2" nipple to elbow.
5. Add second elbow.
6. Reinstall the pressure sensor. Remember use teflon tape on threads or a valid thread sealant! NO LEAKS Please!

By utilizing stainless or carbon steel hardware, Your sensor will be supported and out of the way of your alternator. If concerned.... simply get some brass tubing and relocate the sensor to the damn firewall. Use a clamp and fasten the sensor to the firewall.

There are alot of options in lieu of messing with the alternator, unless you want to disassemble it?

Good luck... Gunner and Semper Fi!

 

Ok, I was able to separate the housing and rotate the battery post to the correct position and I have lots more clearance now! Thanks again!