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Master Cylinder Cap

Discussion in 'Early CJ5 and CJ6 Tech' started by 65cj5-, Jul 22, 2008.

  1. Jul 22, 2008
    65cj5-

    65cj5- New Member

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    I have a 65 cj5, F-head, with a single reservoir master cylinder. It's been sitting for quite a while, so the brakes barely work at all. I'm pretty sure that there is little to no brake fluid in the MC. Unfortunately the MC cap head is square, not to mention partially stripped. Does anyone have any suggestions on how to remove the cap? There is very limited room since it is mounted on the frame rail and paritally stripped. I'm wondering if I should remove the whole mc to get the cap of???
     
  2. Jul 22, 2008
    Steelwheels

    Steelwheels New Member

    Central Calif. Coast
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    Jul 22, 2008
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    Howdy, I've got the same, a '65 CJ-5. Mine sat for 12 years so the brakes needed a total overhaul. I'm thinking you ought to replace the master cyl. and the wheel cyls., flush out the hard lines, replace the rubber lines, replace the shoes maybe, and turn the drums. Only way to make sure you're going to stop when you want to. I got to my master cyl. cap from underneath with a big wrench. There is a hatch through the floorboard just over the m. cyl. but you probably already know that. Good luck!
     
  3. Jul 22, 2008
    65cj5-

    65cj5- New Member

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    A 3/4" wrench would work great, but there is no room to turn it. I've tried from the engine compartment and the access hole in the floor board....... Its also too stripped at the corners for a 12 pt socket to work.
     
  4. Jul 22, 2008
    Homebrew2

    Homebrew2 Member

    Dunlap, CA
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    Because it's kinda stripped already, can you try a small (6") pipe wrench on it? Is it a steel cap or plastic?
     
  5. Jul 22, 2008
    Don X

    Don X The Prodigal Moderator Staff Member 2023 Sponsor

    San Diego,...
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    Probably not enough room for a pipe wrench. First time I opened mine was with a socket through the opening in the firewall. I got lucky and it only took a little effort but I can see how it could strip easily. You might want to try a socket from above through the engine compartment but using a ratchet with a flexible handle (Harbor Feight special) or a breaker bar that can be angled.

    Removing the MC isn't that hard and might be the way to go. 2 bolts along with the break lines and the push rod. If you have a heat shield it takes a little more wiggling to move the heat shield out of the way but afther that it should come out rather quickly.
     
    Last edited: Jul 22, 2008
  6. Jul 22, 2008
    Homebrew2

    Homebrew2 Member

    Dunlap, CA
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    I think the guy's having a prob that we with 'A1's don't have regarding access to the cap. So, I don't really know what he's experiencing but wanted to offer a possible solution. On my 'A1, I can easily get a 6" pipe wrench (6" overall length) on the cap "nut" from either the engine bay or in the cab and can loosen and tighten it (just tried it) :)
     
  7. Jul 22, 2008
    Posimoto

    Posimoto Hopeless JEEP Addict

    Minden, Nevada
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    On my buddies CJ I took a rather large washer, cut it in half and welded it to the nut/bolt head. It made a nice wingnut and you can loosenit by hand through the hole in the floorboards. Of course that doesn't help you get it loose now, but it works well once you get the new MC in.
     
  8. Jul 23, 2008
    Howard Eisenhauer

    Howard Eisenhauer Administrator Staff Member

    Tantallon, Nova...
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    I've always gone at it through the floorboards with an adjustable wrench, its a pain but it works. Frankly, if its been sitting that long I'd replace the MC, wheel cylinders & lines just on spec.

    H.
     
    Last edited: Jul 23, 2008
  9. Jul 23, 2008
    Vanguard

    Vanguard Take Off! Staff Member

    Vista, CA USA
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    I'm with Howard. I used a crescent on mine initially. The brass cap is soft and strips easily. Once I finally got it open, it was clear the MC needed replacement.
     
  10. Jul 24, 2008
    65cj5-

    65cj5- New Member

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    I hear you about the full replacement of everything. My goal right now is to get it running and driveable, then assess what I need to replace to make it full street and light trail ready. Hopefully with some brake fliud I can get some braking action.

    I think I found my solution.......apparently they make 8 pt sockets. Hopefully I can order one from carquest and get the MC cap off with that. I believe it was 3/4"x3/4", does anyone know for sure (65 cj5, F-head, orig. single resevoir frame mounted MC)?
     
  11. Oct 17, 2013
    1960willyscj5

    1960willyscj5 Well-Known Member

    Mesa, Arizona
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    You could always remove the whole removable floor assembly like you would do for working on the clutch. Gets all that flooring out of your way and you are not trying to work through that little 4 1/2 in hole in the floor.
     
  12. Oct 18, 2013
    Walt Couch

    Walt Couch sidehill Cordele, Ga. 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    cordele, Ga.
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    I think the thread before yours is about 5 years old. ;) He should have gotten it by now. :beer::beer::beer:
     
  13. Oct 19, 2013
    1960willyscj5

    1960willyscj5 Well-Known Member

    Mesa, Arizona
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    Yeah, I just noticed the date.

    How ever, you never know. That thing could have been sitting there all this time waiting for an answer.
     
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