No horn or turn signals

I need some help. I have a 74 cj5 that I built about 3 years ago. It has a fiberglass tub and fenders, and a painless wiring harness.
I have no turn signals, however the flashers work. I have no horn. I have checked all my grounds. I have checked the horn itself. I pulled apart the chevy column and replace the turn signal switch. Still nothing. I can hear the horn relay kicking in and out. All four bulbs and wiring to them are good. I am running out of ideas. I'm beginning to wonder if my fuse block may be malfunctioning. Any other thoughts?

 

Know that if horn has single wire to it, you also have to ground horn case to frame or engine. Each light will have to have a ground wire from mounting stud down to frame unless you have a special light w/3 wires. Turn/Marker/Ground. The 4ways can be misleading in that they can circle thru all four bulbs and magically find a load (resistance) thru some unknow device.

 

Also, check the horn itself.
See if you get 12v between the hot and ground when you press the horn.
Simple, but could be your problem.

But I would bet dollars to doughnuts its like Walt said, the horn isn't properly grounded after the glass tub replacement.

 

Horn works now. Still no turn signals. I have everything ground about 3 different ways. Gotta get a voltage sensor and start checking individual wires. May be I have a broken wire under the insulation.

 

For the record, all the electrical has worked fine for 3 yrs.

 

Hmm, so the flashers used to work, but now they don't?

I'm assuming the parking lights and the brake lights work?

What happens when you turn the parking lights on with the TS engaged? The brake lights?
The Spartan TS can get gunked up, but its strange that it just cut out. If it just stopped suddenly it would sure sound like a bad or broken connection, either hot or ground. Not sure when they changed fuse styles, but my 73 has those awful inline fuses, you might take a look at those too.

Oh, and of course, swap the hazard flasher relay with the TS flasher relay to make sure that isn't your problem, since you say the flashers work.

What fixed the horn?

 

Am I reading correctly that it's a Chevy column? not the stock? That would rule out the Spartan. Does the column have a 4 way flasher switch? Things to check out might think it is in 4 way mode. The column I have is out of a newer Jeep that I cut down to use in the 72. I didn't hook up the 4 ways but if the switch gets pushed in I get all four corners on no flash.

 

It's not quite there but I making some headway. Yes it is a GM column. It does have a 4way pull switch, and that works.
The horn now works, the turn signals now work for several minutes and then blow the fuse. So I still have some kind of short but at least it is not a dead short. I changed the flasher today, so far it hasn't blown but I haven't had them on much either. Will keep you all posted.

 

I've got a similar problem. The turn signals work for a short trip then the fuse blows.

Background:
Originally the 30 amp main ignition fuse was blowing and everything went dead. The PO had a 30 amp fuse in the turn signal circuit. I replaced the 30 amp TS fuse with a 15 and the main ignition fuse doesn't blow but the turn signal fuse still does.

It won't blow sitting engine off or on. Only when I'm moving.

Could the flasher do this? I recently replaced the flasher and the turn signal indicator light bulbs and that's the only change in the turn signal circuit. I tested the thing with the turn signal indicator bulbs out but that didn't solve the problem. Got me baffled.

My horn was on the same fuse as the turn signals but I moved that.

 

Search wire loom where it flexes between body and frame and/or any parts that move when vehicle moves, i.e. clutch/brake movement, etc.

 

I found my problem last night finally. It was a short where the wire went through the frame heading up to the right rear tail light. Of course this was pulling every other light out and checking all connections.

 

White Jeepers can sleep in peace now.
I found mine as well. The PO had run the turn signal wires too close to the clutch petal linkage and it was shorting out (sometimes) when the clutch was used. Rewired and all is well.

Thanks!