POR15 Opinions.

Before anyone tells me to use the search i did and kept on getting different opinons on how to do it.

http://www.earlycj5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=53522&page=3 (quick link to how rusty my frame is i will be wire brushin some of the rough stuff but most of it isnt very bad)

Heres the main question how clean do you have to make this in order to use it?

Or is this a brush on and dont worry about it again type of deal. Also is it nessary to get a gallon? 130 bucks is pretty expensive. If anyone has done this how much paint did you go through.

 

I used the Eastwood rust encapsualtor which is similar to the POR15. It took around a quart of it to do a frame. You can brush, roll or spray it on. You need to knock say 50% of the rust down. Using a wire wheel is a good way to do it. The Eastwood product drys faster and does not need a top coat because it is UV stabilized, the prep for both products is similar. YMMV

 

I used POR 15, and it took a quart, but you need to do it all at once. It does not store very well after it is opened.

Get a bottle of rust remover with the POR 15, it will make it a better job.

I degreased, used the rust remover and a pressure washer. I have been very happy with the results except for the xmember at the tranny, but that is my fault. I think I left a little oil on it and there has been some peeling there.

POR-15 will fade in the sunlight. At a minimum you will want to get some of the POR etching primer and paint the rear and front xmembers and the frame horns.

 

yea, don't waste money on a gallon. ask me how i know. i think its a great product. i advise to use the degreaser and the the acid. those who don't are the ones who complain about peeling. i used a simple rustoleum black for a topcoat due to the por15 light sensitivity. and USE GLOVES!! gasoline and a brillo pad are useless against that stuff. i have not used the eastwood products but they sound similar. i was planning on trying theirs on my next project just to see how well it works out. anyhow, good luck

 

if you take some plastic kitchen wrap and put it on top before you put the lid on it makes it a lot easier to get the lid back off. i also keep open cans this way in the fridge and they last more than a month, let them warm before reopening. i buy my por in the little six pack cans.

 

Instructions say to apply second coat before fully cured, while surface still has "finger drag" and you better believe it. If you recoat after fully cured it will blow off in the wind. No inter-coate adhesion after fully cured. They say to scuff with sandpaper after fully cured but there is no way I'm scuffing a frame. I used their tie-coat primer because it takes a few hours for it to be ready for second coat. I don't have blocks of time that big available for tinkering.

I paid a local guy to blast, prime, and paint my rear axle and springs with some industrial chassis paint he uses on tractor trailer frames. If I could go back in time I'd have paid him to do the frame and front axle, too. I think what he used is superior to POR 15. And I don't think I saved much by doing the POR15 myself considering what my time is worth to me.