Rebuilt Rochester 2G overflowing

Out the port marked in red.... this is not my carb but it looks like this one for the most part, I don't have the plastic spout, this was a google image search carb.

When I rebuilt it everything seemed to be moving freely and not binding up... what would cause this to overflow... it starts as soon as you start cranking, hence why the engine was flooding out so badly before, with the air cleaner on you would never know hat it was doing to flood it. I tore it all down, but all new gaskets in, a new needle and seat.... and all was moving freely it seemed... I am stumped on what exactly to look at, been years since I messed with a carb and never had anything like this happen. It almost seems like a stuck float, but It moves freely :?

 

You have too much fuel going into the bowl. The part you circled is the vent for the bowl. If it's coming out of the vent, you should adjust the level of the float.

Mine did the same thing when I first rebuilt it. According to the rebuild kit's chitty diagram and measurement tool, the float was dead on. After I had fuel spraying out of the vent, I removed the float, bent the end a little and it worked fine.

 

Which way do I bend it though, up or down? According to my FSM its supposed to be set at 1 7/8" IIRC and its spot on that.... I am assuming I bend it up (so it doesn't hang down as much?)

 

Did you test the FLOAT.They do go bad.if it does'nt float your in a world of hurt.this is a part of carb overhaul .kinda like trying to do a tuneup with a shot battery.like someone said,its all basic when you break it down.

mike s.

 

mine did the same thing, it was a bad float. check it like mike said.

 

mie did it, because of too much fuel pressure.

 

I haven't changed anything on the pump, and this is the same carb I have been using for months, same fuel pump too.... all I changed was the block and intake.

 

What about the needle valve or seat? Could be bad or have bit of dirt or something keeping it from shutting.

 

I rebuilt it, they are both brand new and were functioning fine. I am going to go adjust the float and see what happens

 

Weird, I had it apart and there was nothing in the float, and I have been using this carb since January with no issue, I go back to adjust the float and it was full of gasoline...

Got a new float on order... if it's not one thing its another R)

 

Carburetors are finicky, fiddly devices - if the float bracket is slightly bent or the float and needle aren't adjusted just right, or if there's anything like foreign matter in the needle valve, the float can hang up and the bowl will overflow. The overflow is placed where it is so that if you have a stuck float, the overflow will go into the engine and (hopefully) flood out the motor, not flow over the outside of the carb and maybe ignite.

Did you test that the inlet needle seal? If you put the carb together and attach a piece of hose to the gas inlet, with the bowl empty and the carb upright, you can blow through the hose and your breath will come out the bowl vent. Turn the carb upside down and the inlet should be tightly sealed - no air escaping.

If it's a brass float, the float should be empty when you shake it. If you immerse it in a bowl of hot water, if you see bubbles it leaks. A nitrophyl (plastic) float should be obviously flooded if you shake it. Both should float like a cork.

 

See the post above yours... the float was full of gas, but it wasn't before... kinda weird. Eh well... nothing will need re-done on it now.

 

Thats happened to be many of times. I've actually had a new float that leaked. Boy did that **** me off when I found out the hard way. Check your brand new float too!!!! Put it in a glass of water with a rock or something ontop, holding it down for a few minutes. Make sure it dosn't fill up.

 

another minor point to watch for. when you rebuild the carb be sure to pay attention to which clip you use to secure the float needle to the float.

sometimes there are two different clips in the kit. the longer one which looks more secure will eventually move and catch keeping the float from rising high enough and also blocking the needle from closing the hole.

i had the same problem but in my case it wasn't a leaky float but the clip catching. same symptoms. took me about an hour of fooling with it to get it to do it while apart.

 

I forgot I had a parts carb in the basement, checked that float, then put it in before I Spent cash on a new float, and that was the issue... I will pick up the new one later this week.... now to figure out why it is running a bit warmer then wanted.... I know an overflow bottle should help a bit....

 

Ok - mine is doing the same thing. New carb - flooded - I took in and had it rebuilt with a brass float. Now starts but floods out. When I clamp off the fuel line it runs great until the bowl is empty - when I unclamp it - it floods out.

What about the fuel pressure?


The float was adjusted once to specks. ?

Very frustrated.....help!

Dan

 

I re-adjusted the float, the spec wasn't working. Once I did that the jeep has done great on and off road.

 

make sure that the float needle (the one that clips to the float and shuts off the inlet of gas to the bowl) is seating correctly and that it isn't causing the float to stick.

This is what happened to me. I used the wrong clip from the package and the needle would seat correctly.