Steering problem

Greetings to the group,

I've been slowly restoring a 59 cj5. Really slowly! 2 children under 4 will do that to a project! My current project is repairing the steering linkage and gear. Last year I developed a binding problem in my steering apparatus. I couldn't turn past neutral to the right. No problem turning to the left. I lifted the front end and disconnected the drag link, Wheels would now move freely to the right and left leading me to believe my problem was in the gear box. I can feel a slight grinding when turning the wheel to the right with the drag link disconnected but atleast I could turn it. With the drag link attached and weight on the wheels I couldn't turn it at all to the right.


Two questions:


Any words of wisdom from anyone who has rebuilt a ross steering gear before?

I noticed that my steering column is not perpendicular to the frame. The column is slighty angles to the left (Drivers side). When the steering wheel is mounted the right side of the wheel is slightly closer to the driver than the left side of the steering wheel due to the obliquity of the column. Are there supposed to be any shims or washers used when mounting the steering box to the frame to offset that obliquity? It does not appear that my frame bent. Maybe that obliquity puts additional strain on the bearings?

Thanks for any help

Pete

 

I have yet to find anything perpendicular or square on my Jeep R).

Are you wishing to stick to the stock steering? Maybe it is time to go Saginaw.

Sorry, but I have no advice for you.

 

I bet the drag you feel in the box is due to a too tight centering bolt. This is probably due to the PO trying to tighten up the steering w/ it (a no-no). It has almost certainly necessitated a rebuild. Take a look in the gallery. This shows the centering bolt http://www.earlycj5.com/gallery2/v/picBank/album_017/Ross+Steering+Box+2.jpg.html and this shows the internals http://www.earlycj5.com/gallery2/v/picBank/album_017/rossboxinternal.JPG.html The sector shaft (thing the pitman arm attaches to) usually has wear spots on the two nipples that mesh w/ the worm gear. This is what gives you the play in the box. However there's a lotta joints in a ross setup and play in any will affect the steering (why many go to a saginaw setup). Here's some links that will help http://www.film.queensu.ca/cj3b/Tech/SteeringBox.html
http://www.film.queensu.ca/cj3b/Tech/Steering.html

They did use shims to mount the box for good alignment w/ the drag link. I don't think this has much affect on the column though. Maybe someone else can help w/ this.:v6:

 

It sounds like your is more severe but mine has a similar problem, it most certainly turns better to the left then the right. It isn't so sever that I can't drive it though. Definitely on the short list though.


I will chime in if I find out any good info.

Matt

 

Thanks for the replies. In particular the links provided were helpful.

Pete

 

I have rebuilt some Ross boxes, I agree with grannyscj. You may find this useful also.
http://www.earlycj5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=50606

 

Re: Steering problem/sector shaft installation

How tight should the sector shaft be when installed?

If the worm gear isn't in place should I be able to rotate it by hand? Just not sure how much reaming of the new bushings I need to do. In fact the old inner and outer bushings looks pretty good and I could probably just ream them out a little more rather than replace them. The original sector shaft was a really really snug fit. It seemed to snug a fit to me? I couldn't budge it by hand when trying to rotate it.

Thanks for any advice,

pete

 

Re: Steering problem/sector shaft installation

Tight is ok, The bushings have lubricant groves in them to assure distribution of gear oil to the entire length of the bushing.
These bushings bear a push pull force so a tight busing provides a better bearing surface than a loose one, They dont have to resist scoring from high rpm and high engine temperatures.
If you are unsure you cant go wrong with a tight palm press fit, If you can rotate it at all with mild to moderate effort with the Steering Gear Arm temporarily installed on the Sector Shaft it should be ok.

 

Brian,
"tight palm press fit" gives me a good idea as to the degree of tightness. Currently the only way to reseat the sector shaft is to pound it in with a hammer unless I ream the bushings further. I had to use a sledge to get the old sector shaft out. I think part of the problem I had was the previous owner must have rebuilt the steering box at some point and he installed the sector shaft awfully snug. Then he fit a zerk fitting into the cast iron housing and pumped grease into the box for lubrication. I don't think grease would adequately lubricate the bushings because it probably is to thick to move through that hole inside the box housing. Maybe that was partly to blame for the binding problem that developed?

Pete

 

Yes it could, Galling and Siezing can occur under high load with little rotary motion, With the shaft that tight grease may not have been able to get between the shaft and bushing.
If you look at the bushings you should see two spiral grooves in them to distribute lubricant to the entire length of the shaft.
You will also see a small hole ( as viewed from the worm side of housing ) that goes from the small reservoir ( space between bushings ) to the larger part of the gearbox.
This hole allows gear oil to pass up into this space and flow horizontally into the bushings through the groves.