Installing ujoints

Somebody please tell me there is a trick to this. I am attempting to install new ujoints into a new Omix Ada front drive shaft. I cant get the cross into one end of the shaft,

the other end goes in just fine.

The drive shaft is part number 16590.01, the ujoints are Neapco part number 1-0200. When they didn't fit I bought Spicer 5-153X ujoints, still no go.

I have turned, wiggled, twisted, coerced and cussed at it. Is it possible there was a machining step they missed on making it?

Thanks,
David

 

Just food for thought, I have no experience with the Omix-Ada driveshafts but is it possible they used a different width yoke on one end that would require the U-Joint to be say ( for example ) 3 inches across the flats one way and 3.5 inches across the flats another?
I mention this only because I have ran into U-Joints like this on more than one light truck , Especially where different transmissions were retrofit and ordering a U-Joint like this was the best way to adapt to the existing drivetrain.
Dont know if this will help but it is a possibility worth checking out.

 

I'm open to just about any possibility, but the Neapco ujoints were included in the box with the shaft from Omix. I have confirmed that the Neapco and Spicer part numbers are interchangeable.

I measured the distance across the inside of the yokes, the one that goes is 2.30in, the one that doesn't is 2.145in.

 

I dont think the U-Joint is the problem then with measurements that close, You probably have a yoke casting that is a little off spec.
If there is plenty of beef in the yoke casting and the circle clip groves are the same distance apart as the flats of the U-Joint and you are not building a high horsepower rig I would not be afraid to open up the inside of the yoke equally on both sides a little, Some yokes also have a small chamfer ( on both sides ) right where the u-Joint body hits the yoke when the U-Joint is on an angle during installation ( right where the U-Joint body is resting in your first pic ) these chamfers go just to the machined bore diameter for the U-Joint cap.
These chamfers will ease installation and if you choose to do a little backyard machining/grinding I would recommend doing the small chamfer first to allow the U-Joint body to go into the bore a little farther then open up the inside of the yoke equally on both sides a little at a time.
From looking at the clearance you appear to be short in your pic the chamfer alone might almost do it.
I had to do this once on a light truck when I changed transmissions, It went well and I never had any trouble with it.
Thats about all the experience I have to offer.

 

I think I would be asking your supplier to check another one and if the same get an original...they are still pretty common.

 

:iagree: I do agree that modifying slightly off spec parts should be a last resort, I think 48cj2a is right on that one.

 

That was the idea I had, it is new so they should make it right.

I would much rather have an original, anyone know where they are available?

Thanks,
David

 

Am I missing something here? Are you talking about how tight the caps fit in the yoke? I've always had to press in u-joint caps, they don't just push in. I made a u-joint press out of a 6" C-clamp although they can be had at most FLAPS. The caps are supposed to fit tight. Don't know if it's the proper way, but here is how I put in u-joints. Put the cross shaft in place and start one of the caps. Press it in beyond flush (further than you need to go) so you can start the cap on the other end of the cross shaft. Then press the second cap on (in) to center the u--joint and install snap rings. The key is in getting the first cap far enough in that you can get the second cap to fit over the cross shaft to hold the needle bearings in place while you press in the caps. You can use a C-clamp and an appropriate socket to make a press.

 

That's how I do it as well. I never expect to be able to get the second cross shaft in with the first cap already on first cross shaft.

 

No, the cross will not go into the yoke at all. One end will, but the other won't. The first picture I posted shows the cross hitting.

 

So.......in the second picture, you have the cross shaft in the yoke. Can't you finish installing the caps at that point? Does the other end fit in the yoke on the T-case or diff end?