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Brake line replacement?

Discussion in 'Intermediate CJ-5/6/7/8' started by bncrshr77, Feb 6, 2008.

  1. Feb 6, 2008
    bncrshr77

    bncrshr77 bncrshr77

    Ohio
    Joined:
    Aug 22, 2007
    Messages:
    8
    Hello,
    I'm looking into running my own fuel lines and have a few questions. I have read the threads but want to clarify for myself. I have a 72-74 year 304 w/carb and I will be using a carter gm6906 pump with 1/4" threads. What diameter fuel line should I use with this setup? Do I flare the tubes just like a brake tube flare? Any advice on where to buy it? Thanks again fellas!
     
  2. Feb 6, 2008
    timgr

    timgr We stand on the shoulders of giants. 2022 Sponsor

    Medford Mass USA
    Joined:
    Aug 10, 2003
    Messages:
    23,596
    You should have pipe threads at the pump. Use a 5/16" barb fitting and a short length of rubber 5/16" fuel line to the steel fuel line. Possibly you could use a pipe thread to 5/16" flare nut fitting, but I don't think it's necessary. The line to the carb is 5/16" OD and the return line is 1/4" OD. The steel fuel lines are available at any parts store - they are the same as brake line. The brake lines will be flared on each end, but you'll have to cut one end to get the nuts off (you'll see).

    I'd think you'd either want to double flare the tubing (in the manner that it's flared when you get it) or not flare it. IME rubber hose over unflared steel line seals fine if you use a worm clamp.
     
    Last edited: Feb 6, 2008
  3. Feb 6, 2008
    double R

    double R Member

    Reseda, CA
    Joined:
    Mar 18, 2003
    Messages:
    332
    This is good to hear. I've been wondering whether it was necessary for me to rent a flaring tool kit and double flare the hard line to rubber line connections.

    I bought my steel fuel lines from NAPA. They have a few fuel repair line kits that are cut to certain lengths and in different diameters. Depending on the kit, some came with the threaded fitting and some with a connector to connect hard line to hard line (i forget the proper name). You can browse NAPA's online catalog to get the parts number.
     
    Last edited: Feb 6, 2008
  4. Feb 6, 2008
    bncrshr77

    bncrshr77 bncrshr77

    Ohio
    Joined:
    Aug 22, 2007
    Messages:
    8
    Thanks for the info fellas!! I'll how many lines I can destroy in the process!!
     
  5. Feb 6, 2008
    Hawkes

    Hawkes Member

    Nova scotia
    Joined:
    Jun 18, 2003
    Messages:
    490
    I put all new 5/16 fuel lines on my Jeepster, and as timgr said used rubber fuel line to tie into the tank and engine side. Mine is fuel injected with about 45 lbs from the pump, and my rubber lines are slid right onto the steel line without a flare. No problems at all. I bought a roll of steel line from a hardware store. I used fuel injection rubber hose but you don't have to. Fuel injection hose is many times more expensive than regular fuel line. If you have a harbor freight or similar place local pick up a tubing bender, they're quite cheap and make nice bends.

    Paul
     
    Last edited: Feb 6, 2008
  6. Feb 7, 2008
    bncrshr77

    bncrshr77 bncrshr77

    Ohio
    Joined:
    Aug 22, 2007
    Messages:
    8
    I'll be attempting this operation in a little over a week! It should be a fairly straight forward job now that I have the info! Thanks fellas!
     
  7. Feb 8, 2008
    NorCoJeeper

    NorCoJeeper Member

    Ft. Collins CO
    Joined:
    Feb 10, 2006
    Messages:
    470
    No need to double flare fuel lines like brake lines, a single flare is fine. A better alternative when using hose to steel line is to do the first step of the double flare: putting the bubble flare in using the die, but don't do the second step of collapsing it. This will improve retention, although I've never had a problem with fuel hose coming off unflared line.
     
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