gas tank refurbishing

I got two tanks from the m38a1. They are both old and I am wondering if a radiator shop does any type of process where they can seal up the tank somehow for a pretty permanent solution? Don't know much about radiator shops except they do some pretty amazing things. I hear there is a way to line the inside of the gastank?

Oh, and it seems like there is a huge fin right down the middle of the gas tank, on the inside. Anyone know what this is?

Thanks in advance guys

 

I had one lined a few years ago at a rad shop. Cost me $100. Worked great. They acid etch then use some kind of black epoxy on the whole tank. They dip it. Remove sending unit and anything else attached (plugs etc). Buddy did a 36 Dodge about 20 yrs ago and hasn't peeled yet. There is also an inside treatment from Eastwood. Have seen it used on cycle tanks.It's preetty much for surface rust though. Rad shop stuff will seal rust holes upto about 1/4".

 

the "fin" is a stock baffle inside the tank; strenthens the tank in the middle to keep it from collapsing and helps control fuel slosh as well.

 

excellent. sounds great. I'll start calling around. was gonna buy a new tank but their $250

 

Here is picture of the inside of my 62 CJ5 tank. The outside looked good but the inside is real bad...to bad to be self fixed. Note the walnuts inside on both sides of the baffle. The baffle does not have a hole large enough for the walnuts to get through on one side???
If it was a CJ tank I would say just get a replacement but I know the deeper military one is a lot of money.
Personally I don't like sitting on a fuel tank so I am moving mine to under the rear seat in it's own chamber separate from the passengers. It is a new 12 gallon plastic marine grade tank I got for around $50.
Ed

 

A little more info on the gas tank I will be placing under my custom rear seat. It is a Tempo marine grade gas tank and is suitable for mounting with it's deep groves around the unit for straps. It is 1.5 gallons more than the stock 10.5 gallons and at 24 inches wide it will leave 12 by 18 x 10 inches beside the tank for an extra removable container of fuel. The tank will be located with steal in front and top to protect the passengers from flames. The floor will be well ventilated to let fumes out and a vent will be added so the cap can be sealed.
Other below deck tanks are available that are 36 inches wide, 18 deep and only 7 inches high plus it hold 16 gallons!
Below is the write up on the tank I have by the manufacture.

24-1/4" L x 18" W x 10" H w/cap 12 gallons...The low profile and seamless one-piece construction make this an easy-to-carry, easy-to-store fuel tank. A reserve fuel area is designed right into the tank by means of a partitioned bottom. When the gauge registers empty, simply tilt the tank and the reserve fuel supply becomes available. The 90° fuel gauge withdrawal assembly and fill cap is recessed for additional protection.

Hope this will give a few people a safer and cheaper option or if they are thinking of a second tank.
Ed

 

I called around to find a place to line the inside of my tank and no radiator shops around here will do it. I have a friend who is getting some kind of a kit from POR15 to do the inside of gas tanks. I've patched it up with huge globs of gas and radiator repair puddy. It says its permanent, but does anyone have any opinions on using it? I'm thinking I should chip it all off and either use solder or braze it? I've never brazed before, so I honestly have no idea what I'm talking about. Any of these good patch options?

 

If you braze be EXTREMELY careful. My old boss killed himself and his kid doing that. Got in a hurry didn't clean out good enough. Fumes are what blows not gas. He was a welder/fabricator for a living. Rinse out several times. Let dry for days to get rid of fumes rinse again. If you can still smell fuel do it again. Brazing will work pretty well and it's simple, if you have oxy acet set up. Dont know about solder.
You cannot be too careful with fuel and fire in an confined space.

 

Agreed all around.
I’ve had a gas tank brazed before and that’s what the guy did. Filled it with water up to just below the area to be brazed.
I wouldn’t recommend that though. Even done this way, the flame still ignited little pockets of fumes.
For an internal sealer, try your local motorcycle shop. The Honda shop just outside C-Town carries some stuff called Kreem that includes a chemical etcher, dehydrator for after rinsing, and a sealer that’s applied after the inside has been treated.
That’s one rout to take but I still wouldn’t bother. I did that to my tank and it sealed up the holes for a month or so but started leaking again after I went wheeling.
Personally, I’d spend the money on a poly tank and never worry about it again.

 

"Personally, I’d spend the money on a poly tank and never worry about it again." X2

Even if you had to buy a cheaper CJ tank and fill the bottom of the M38A1 well. Any type of sealer kit is going to cost you 1/3 the price of a CJ tank.
The tank in my previous picture did not have any holes in it but there was too much crap to clean out.
If it has holes, then it has lots of rust and scale inside that any type of sealer will have a hard time sticking to the walls.

 

I used the POR15 kit on bike tanks and my 46 2A. It worked great in both. Never had any problems and the bike tank was real bad. Gas sitting in it for 10 years. It is a 3 step process. Follow the instructions.

 

I have seen them for 150 bucks for a replacement.....I don't think the labor and materials is cheaper than that...not to mention the time and dirt involved. Good Luck

 

I've repaired many tanks from three 2a'a to an M38A1. If the problem is pin holes or seams leaking than a tank liner is the ticket. I've gotten them when they looked like a dry dust/rust bowl on the inside and a pitted mess on the outside.
Work on the outside first with a wire wheel on a grinder. get it down to as bear metal as you can, this will also bring up all the "issues" if it's still only a few pin holes go for the inside tank treatment. I'll use a cup or two of Kerosene and a hand full (or two) of large bolts and roll it around the inside of the tank. Some have even fastened the tank to a cement mixer or something to roll it an hour or two. That done flush the tank and dry it with acetone. I do this about three times.
With the inside clean (it will never be perfect, don't get too worried about it) and the outside spanked of rust. treat the outside with acetone and make sure you got any oil off it. Then cover all the pinholes and seams with JB WELD. You can by this stuff in the big tubes at the tractor supply store for $10.00 don't be stingy here, most of your "issues" will be below the sight line.
Buy the tank liner at the locale parts store (I got mine at NAPA for about $24.00 a quart) most of these are the same components just different manufactures. One quart is plenty for a tank.
Make sure you pull all the sending units out and drain plugs. the pick up line you will have to physicaly blow into after the application to make sure its clear.
For under $50.00 you can have your tank last for many years. hope this helps. Gary

 

thanks gary. that gives me alot of insight. I actually think I can get away with just JB welding the crack on the seam. I hear thats the stuff to use. probably don't even need the liner, it seems pretty clean inside and not too many leaks.

 

Don't use JB weld... It doesn't hold gasoline...
I think JB Weld makes a gas tank repair kit that works well, so I hear...

 

When I worked on a ranch I repaired the tanks on three differen pickups with liquid steel. Don't rember who makes it but it held. Cach was in short supply.
As easy as Jeep replacement gas tanks are to come by that would be the way to go.
This is gasoline and the vapor or fumes will collect in any low place. With the price of each gallon going up each drop is precious. That is secondary to a fire or explosion.

64 CJ5 Eeyore

01 TJ Tigger