I Need Help On 1971 CJ-5 Clutch Problems

I only use my Jeep for hunting each year. For several years I've had problems with a very stiff clutch breaking clutch cables even though I drive it only 100-300 miles a year. For the last 3 years I've adjusted the clutch cable to facilitate ease of shifting and in just a few miles I'm grinding gears when I shift. Year before last I adjusted the cable several times during my elk hunt. Last year and again this year (even using HD Locktite on the cable during adjusment) I adjusted the cable before I left on the hunting trip. After driving several miles hunting in the mountains I've again started grinding gears. Both of these years I just drastically reduced the use of the Jeep. It was disappointing since I had in September finally installed my GM High Energy Ignition and replaced my too dicey power steering box with a later power steering box from a Jeep Wagon. They both worked great! Everything was great except that blankity blank clutch. There is a ghost messing with the adjustment.
In the past few days I've taken my Jeep to two places and talked to two others. One says the out of adjustment occurs because, in just a few miles I've stretched the cable. This is because of the pressure plate being worn out. Another says the out of adjustment is because of heat warping the disk. Another says it's the "old pressure plate". All say they can solve my problem for about $450 up to $725.
Since this problem seems to be common I wonder if anyone has any suggestions/thoughts. I have spent several hours reviewing old posts (including some of my own on this subject)and didn't come to any conclusion. Because the Jeep is a 1971 the pedals are not suspended so the AA chain conversion won't work. When, 3 or 4 years ago, I looked into the linkage conversion kit sold by Turner 4WD, it wouldn't fit because of tail pipes etc. I'm now ready to move pipes if necessary but now the kit doesn't appear to be available any more.
I'm not sure which way to run. Get a new clutch installed and maybe solve the problem and maybe not. Install a linkage conversion???? Where? What? Stiff clutches seem to be rather common. Help!

Claude, Meridian, ID-----1971 CJ-5, 225 V-6, T-18 (4 speed) plus Husky O/D

 

The AA chain conversion will work, there are several members that have it. You will have to alter the clutch tube to work like the mechanical one. There is a tab on the cross shaft missing, you can weld one on or buy a new one.
My clutch cable is at least 15 years old, since I bought the jeep in 92, I have put around 12,000-13,000 miles on it with no problems and no adjustments. My guess is that your clutch is shot or somethings not hooked up right.

 

Thanks for the input. The Advance Adapter website shows a P/N 716640 Jeep Clutch Control for 1946-70 and a P/N 716639 for 1972-85. It shows nothing for 1971. Which one will work on the '71 or is there someone else making a chain drive?
You may very well be right. The clutch may be trash however it has never slipped or shown any other symtoms other than being very stiff. The hookup, that is cable, springs, clutch yoke attachment etc. has been checked several times. Nothing appears to be amiss.

 

sounds like the problem is internal;
the t/o bearing is not sliding properly on the front bearing retainer; the bearing retainer is severly worn from the t/o bearing; or the fork pivot area of the bellhousing is amiss; maybe the fork itself;
if you've inspected/replaced all you can on the outside, it might be time to drop the trans and see what's going on.

 

my 1 piece cable is older than Mike's...
nice and easy as the day I installed it

 

The model listed for the 1946-70 model will work so long as you replace the x shaft with this part.
http://www.jeepdoc.com/catalog/zproducts.asp?id=30
part #642624 at $14.25. If you go to the link and look at the picture posted with the part # you will notice that this shaft is just like yours but missing the tab on the right side. The 4 cylinder models still used it in 1971, they never went with a cable activated clutch.
But like Jim said there is something wrong with your clutch or TO bearing!! You should be able to press the clutch in with your hand quite easily.

 

Yes, paying someone to fix this could get expensive. It's pretty hard to keep these older vehicles if you can't do the work yourself. Are you willing to try and fix it yourself? CJs are pretty easy to work on compared to most cars - lots of room to work, simple construction. You'll get lots of support here if you decide to get into it.

The factory manual will show you what's involved. If you don't have one, they are pretty inexpensive from Turners and lots of other places http://thejeep.com/shop/HOT+SELLERS....html?osCsid=2208b45bc3d5a091786adc997c5a79d0

If this is a factory 4-speed in a 1971, it's a rare bird. Worth fixing right, definitely.

Re the clutch stiffness, a lot depends on which clutch parts you install. If you replace everything with new parts (disk, pressure plate, throwout bearing) and don't install a 'performance' clutch, then get everything aligned and lubed properly, I'd think it would be fine. That's what I would do.

 

I've recently done quite a bit of work on my 1971. I just installed a new bilot bearing, clutch and throw out bearing, rebuilt the transmission and transfer case. I have been have problems with the adjustment on the clutch. I finally tried a brand new cable and the adjustment fell easilly into place. I did notice however that if the cable attachment points arent perfectly centered in the holders mounted to the frame that the clutch is very hard to push down. When I straightened them out it really reduced the friction and the clutch is very easy to operate. I'm still coming up a bit short on the needed free play, but my plan is to get the axle in, drive it around the block and try to readjust. I may also be interested in the AA kit.

 

Do a google search.
For: RRich, Hard clutch fix commando.

You will find lots of answers to this problem here.

I know its a commando but it will apply.

 

I greatly appreciate all of your inputs and comments on the AA chain system and the experiences you've had. RRich wrote quite a book on stiff clutches. My reading it was alot like the boy who had to read a book on penguins. He learned alot more about penquins (or stiff clutches) than he/I ever wanted to know.
Based on your comments I'm now leaning toward having a new clutch installed. Although I have installed several clutches in trucks and autos, overhauled and rebuilt engines etc. this was a few years ago. The most I've done lately to the CJ-5 is put in a timing set,cam, lifters etc. plus complete the HEI conversion and replacement of the steering box. I'm getting a little too much of a geezer to do this clutch replacement myself--- as I was reminded by my wife when I mentioned it would be alot of work but fun to do.
I am aware that I do have a very rare vehicle with the factory 4 speed. Thanks to one of you I learned this from this forum about 3 years ago.
From what was said I understand that I should get the standard duty diaphagm clutch kit installed. The shop I'm leaning toward uses the Valeo O.E.M. clutches. Any experience with these?

 

I am not familar with that brand.
You need to know where the clutch is really made and if they are rebuilt or new.

I am using a LUK clutch and its new from S. africa.

I have took out 2 clutchs recently that looked new but were already shot.

One was from Korea and one from China.
American company dosnt always mean, U.S. made.

 

Claude, if you want to do this project in your garage, there may be another member in your area that would be willing to help with the heavy lifting. If you do it in your garage, you'll want a floor jack of some kind with the T-18 - either a floor jack with some kind of add-on to hold the transmission, or a bona-fide transmission jack.

 

With help from someone who's done it before I certainly would consider doing it in my garage at their convenience. I do have a HD floor jack, could rent a transmission jack and probably have all the tools, jack stands etc. required. I live in Meridian, Idaho which buts right up to Boise.

 

I made a new tab on mine that's a 1/4" taller. made a big difference in clutch effort.