Hoisting an F-Head

Does any one have a pictorial of where I can mount some chains to safely hoist an F-Head? I don't want to crack anything. I don't see any accessory bolt holes that look big enough to support the weight of the engine.

TIA.

 

I asked on my L-Head in the off topic R)
As far as I know neither have no places to "bolt" so you have to use a cradle of straps. A fellow told me to use 3/8 to 1/2 rope, but my dad found a military lifting strap to use.
Good luck with her.

 

I've always just wrapped a tow strap (one with hooks) around the motor a few times and pulled it out.

I've done that one everything from an AMC 258 to the F-head and L-heads. Never had a problem.

- Evan

 

I wraped a 3/8 inch rope around her and up she went ..... I made it up ok . and got it back down without a problem . I put the engine ,Tranny and tcase all in with the same piece of rope. No problems.

 

I just pulled a bolt out of each end of the block, put the bolts through a link of heavy chain, reinstalled the bolts. No problem.

 

i like the lifting bracket idea myself,not to hard to make either,don yes send us some pictures,my a1 didnt have em

 

x3

 

x whatever on the bolt through the chain method.

 

Thanks for all the suggestions, guys. Evan's idea sounded like the safest for my purposes since I was pulling the whole drivetrain at once and used the strap to secure the tranny and transfer case at the same time; worked great! Thanks again.

 

Just my opinion, but THAT looks dangerous as hell!!!! Looks to me like the suspension point is centered down around the block, and there's nothing really supporting the whole top end, looks very top-heavy and tippy to me! Also looks like a good way to damage other things too.

I just used the front and rear head bolts; put a big washer under the bolt head and ran it through a 1/2" chain link, also use one of those "load leveler" engine hoisting things from HF. I feel much safer with all the weight hanging down by the top of the motor, it's not top heavy so it has no chance to tip over, causing much grief and gnashing of teeth.

 

Actually Ron, this was the first time I've ever lifted a drivetrain this way, and I don't think I'll ever go back to lifting plates or bolts unless I'm doing just an engine. The way the straps wrap around, you couldn't push the motor over if you were trying. And by being able to strap the trans and motor at the same time, I was able to keep the whole thing flat, whereas just lifting the motor would have caused the whole thing to nose-up; made it a lot easier to push around by myself. The strap pictured was rated at 20k and is 3" or 4" wide x 20'. I wouldn't recommend using anything less. I also don't thinkg I'd feel comfortable using this method for just the engine unless I had some kind of cradle underneath it. For yesterday's purpose, however, I was extremely pleased.

 

you guys dont even want to know how i pulled my last one ok let me get one thinkg clear on my crude way of doing it,the jeep was to be junked when i bought it put the rolling chassis in the garage and set into it with the torch now all that is left is the motor trans transfer sitting on jack stands where the jeep used to be

 

Straps is the way to go R)
L head came out easily and now is sitting on a pallet (I think... Haven't seen it in 3 days so it may have broken through the pallet) (let's hope not) on the engine hoist's legs. I need to figure out how to get it apart now R)


And it was only a choker and one loop, and a strap over the hook, holding it up. I didn't realize it but one loop slipped off the hook, but the tension held it good enough. Best way ever. The 2A manuel even says if the engine needs an overhaul to use lifting straps only.

 

You fellers just knock yerselves out. I'm too old, and I've seen too many mishaps in my days. Had my share happen to me too. Pain is a great teacher.