Spicer 18 Twin Stick

I have never used the four wheel drive on my 65 CJ5 since I bought it. I am not sure how the twin stick operates and I did a search but this simple of a question doesn't seem to have been asked. How do you switch it from 2wd to 4wd or is it always in 4wd high but unless you get out and lock in the front hubs you are really not in 4wd? If the first lever is moved to the out postion and the second into neutral would this be for towing. Obviously, I don't even know what I have- my bad. Thanks

 

You have a Jeep, and have never used the 4WD? :?

Yeah, you have to lock in the hubs first. Otherwise, you'll be engaging and turning the axle, but not the front wheels. I understand a lot of folks just leave the hubs engaged all the time, doesn't hurt anything. After all, they were non-selective from the factory, selective hubs are options. You'll want to disengage them for towing though.

You'll be amazed at 1st gear, 4wd, low range, if you have 5.38 axles you can get out and walk alongside the Jeep as it idles along.

 

Yep, I know pretty embarassing- don't want to get it dirty :?. I understand most of what is going on now and I did know the pattern already. If you disengage the front axle you must have it in high for 2wd high as the transfer case in neutral means no go? Would someone ever run it at 2wd low? If the front axle is engaged (lets say accidentally) without the front hubs locked in will that scenario hurt anything? Do you have to do anything special when you lock or unlock the hubs other than CCW &CW rotation such as have the front axle already engaged or trans in neutral, etc? Do you have to do anything special to shift it into 4wd, and then high or low as in a particular sequence? When unlocking the hubs any sequence and do you need to back up to fully unlock them? Finally, when towing should you disengage the front axle, put transfer case into neutral position and then trans into first or neutral? These are the questions I have and thanks for the anticipated replies...gilly......

 

My old Tracker, you locked the hubs, then you got into the vehicle, moved it about 20 feet, then locked it into 4wd via the Transfer Case lever. I dont recall anything ever breaking if I left the hubs locked/unlocked, but I usually managed to switch them back.

 

1.) 2wd low is sketchy since your putting lots of power to just the rear wheels. Some people tow boats out of water in this mode. be careful!

Usually when I'm back-road wheeling, as soon as I leave the pavement, I'll turn in the hubs in, but keep it in 2wd. That way I don't have to get out in the mud when it stops going in 2wd, I just shift a lever. When I leave the back roads, I turn the hubs back out. Back in WW2, as other people have mentioned, jeeps didn't have hubs. This would be like having them always engaged. When people are shooting at GI's, they don't have time to get out and turn the hubs in!

Personally, I never drive on the highway with my hubs turned in. Think about it! its turning things it doesn't (and in most cases shouldn't) need to be turning. Its wasting gas and wearing things out!

Also, I 'wheel with an open differential. This essentially means my jeep will only put power down until the wheel with least traction slips. Another type of diff is called a locker (google around for posi, tracloc, limited slip etc etc). If you have lockers you need to be a little more careful about when things are locked and unlocked. Gravel roads at speed with a fully locked rig is asking for trouble unless your expecting it.

If its stock, its an open diff.

2.) Pull the E brake first. turn in the hubs first with the transfer case in 2wd. Its easier to do the final alignment of all the systems internally from the cab. Shift the transmission into a gear. Gently use the with the engine / clutch to spin transfer case, then let them fully spin down before shifting. Shift into your desired range.

3.) Usually newer vehicles that have some sort of dashboard based locking mechanism you have to back up. AFAIK from what you have mentioned about your setup, no backing up needed.

4.) Put em both in neutral. eg, if the transmission or transfer case accidentally ever falls into gear, you have redundancy that nothing bad will happen.

 

I use 2 low for backing out of spots in parking lots. other wise mucho clutch slipping with the powr lok.

 

Personally, I think the case for locking hubs has been way oversold.

Prior to 1975, hubs weren't even a factory option - they were only sold as a dealer- or owner-installed accessory. The factory did not see the need. That said, I guess better than 90% of all Jeeps leaving the dealer lots in 1974 had hubs.

It was only after hubs had been popularized by Warn and the other aftermarket suppliers that Jeep started offering them as a factory option.

With my truck, I generally use the hubs once a year - locked in the winter, when I first need them to move over snow or ice, and unlocked in the spring, when I don't. Of course, my truck sees very few miles in the winter (bad salt conditions here), and I have not driven it off the pavement yet.

So, use 'em if you have them, but IMO the mileage and wear issues are so minor that you can't measure them reliably.

 

You can shift from 2HI to 4HI at any speed if the hubs are locked. If the hubs are unlocked and you try it at anything other than a full stop, you'll get terrible gear clash from the transfer case.

I think the stock D18 transfer case has to be modified to allow 2LO, otherwise low is locked out if you aren't in 4WD.

As long as there's no load on the drivetrain (ie in gear, parked on a hill) the hubs should go in and out pretty easily. No special shifting or shift position is required. If you have trouble, it's probably time to remove them, take them apart, clean, lube and replace

Shifting into reverse or neutral is only needed on cars with an automatic trans.

2HI to 4HI and back is ok at any speed, as long as the hubs are in. HI to LO and back has to be at a full stop or at most a baby crawl. You'll get a little clash if you're moving but it's ok.

Lots of discussion of this in the past, and opinions vary. Safest is to remove the rear driveshaft and unlock the hubs. I don't know all the issues with the D18, so I can't advise you there.

Sorry to the previous posters if some of this has been covered before, but it's easier to answer all the Qs rather than to pick out what hasn't been covered.

 

Thanks guys for the 4WD and grammar lessons. You have all answered my questions thoroughly...........gilly

 

Driving on the street with a PowrLok and hubs locked, even if in 2hi, can cause steering feed back at times. Even worse, I had to put it in "front wheel drive" once (removed the rear driveshaft due to mechanical problem and then shifted to 4hi). Holy cow what a white knuckle ride. Apply too much torque or let off the gas too fast and you get a random lane change. Unlocking one hub made it predictable, although still not fun.

 

At one time I had a 63 chevy pickup with no hubs. So when I could afford it I put on warn hubs thinking of the fantastic gas mileage I was going to get. It didnt make a bit of difference in the gas mileage at all. But they do eliminate the wheel hop when turning a tight corner. I dont think I have unlocked the hubs on my CJ-5 in years. Actually I dont remember ever having the wheel hop problem with any CJ either.