Clutch Question

Hi,
I just registerd for the forum here, but i've been lurking around for a while now. I"ve got a question about the clutch set up on my cj that maybe you can help me with...

After a few encounters with mud i shouldnt have been in, the throwout bearing on the cj is squealing like a bizzich.

I see listings for a 10.5" clutch and and 11" clutch, I'm fairly sure that I need the 10.5", but just wanted to check. BTW: Its a 72 drivetrain with a 304, 3-speed combo. The Trans is porbably a t-15, but i havent taken the time to positively identify it.

Also, my cj has a cable operated clutch, and after years of neglect, and over zealous cranking on the adjuster, the threads are stripped. I dont seem to be able to find the proper cable, or at least one that matches the description of mine.

The odd combo of a 70 body with a 72 AMC drivetrain has left it hard to find a proper part number. I'm not even sure what years jeep used a cable operated clutch, but i know it was rare, and it was during the late 60's early 70's. Anybod have any advice for me?


Thanks,
-Dante

p.s. It looks like the commando's used cable clutches...:?

 

the Commando cables won't work in a CJ application as they come up thru the floorboard differently and were very problematic
for a V6 application in a CJ, the Jeep p/n was: 992533
for a V8 application in a 72-75 CJ, the Jeep p/n was: 8122225
both of these use the threaded ball adjuster on the t/o fork.
the later cable come up thru the floor as well :
pics of both setups can be found here: http://earlycj5.com/gallery2/v/picBank/album_005/
AMC later came out with a solid linkage conversion kit to remove the cable and go back to a bellcrank style of linkage; these kits are now discontinued .
do you have a pic of your current set-up ?
might help us to identify what you currently have
there also is a possibility you could adapt the AA chain set-up to your Jeep as well.
forgot to mention you can use the part numbers above and try to find replacement cables at Walcks, Krage etc...once you know what you have

 

On my 75 with a 304/T15 the flywheel had bolt holes for both a 10.5" and 11" clutch. I installed an 11" clutch with little problem, although I have an adjustment issue with the linkage. PO used post-76 parts on the linkage.

 

thats a great resource, but unfortunately my set up is unlike any of them. I'll go get some pics...

EDIT:
Here are the pedals from the inside...


Here is the way the cable is routed and attached to the pedal...



and here is a bad picture of the clutch fork end...

 

you were looking stock V6 1 piece cable till that last pic
any chance of getting a better pic ?
the end of the stock cable would be like a threaded stud, and the jamb nut and adjuster thread onto the end
everything else I see in your pics is factory stock for 70-71 model year

hmm, you're right the 1 piece cable isn't pictured
gonna have to see if I can dig one up
do you have the bracket on the transfer case that the cable mounts into ?

 

I wont be able to get a better pic till sunday, I'm headed out of town after work tomorrow. sorry for the bad pic.

You are spot-on with the description of that cable end.

There is not a bracket on the t-case. (this is not the t-case it came with though, this is a different one that i swapped tera low gears into, but the case i took out didnt have a braket either.)

 

so what holds the cable at the fork end then ?

 

Ok, so i couldnt get a better picture so hopefully this will help further explain the set up. The a djuster dosent thread on the end of the cable, rather the cable threads Through the adjuster, and hte adjuster rides in the clutch fork.
heres that same bad pic with some of my picasso-like illustration...


Its this helping at all?

 

the cable should be supported by a bracket down below; the end of the cable would have a collar on it; this collar would fit thru a hole in the bracket and secured by a clip; this keeps the cable in place and mounted securely.
What is holding the fork end of the cable securely ?
some other home brew bracket ?
or is the cable simply attached somehow straight to the fork ?
If the latter, I don't see how that could work
let me go snap a pic of mine....

 

Thats a good question... I'm not sure whats holding that cable back. I'll have to shoot a pic when i get home on sunday. I have a feeling that there is some kind of backyard-fab bracket like you describe though.

 

the first pic is of the cable and adjuster at the fork
2nd pic is cable mounted in the factory bracket
hope this helps

 

yes it is Lynn
the wise Jeeper keeps one in his Jeep (wink wink)

 

Hmmm, that looks extremely close to what i have, but the adjuster is different. on mine the clutch cable threads through the adjuster, not into it. hmmmm...

So far this has been very helpful. thanks
-Dante

 

not saying what you have is wrong
just trying to identify what you have

 

Try this site for the cable. My business partner ordered one for his '70. Apparently they are BO for a little while.

http://www.accountwizard.com/client...willys&page=class&class=CLUTCH&subclass=Cable

 

A few more pics of the clutch

the adjuster...


the bracket...


Both... (ignore the black cable that i'm holding out of the way)


Another one of the bracket..


and the pedal side again for reference...


Ok so do we have any ideas which cable i need? Thanks
-Dante

 

cable end at pedal is factory
cable could be factory stock
lower cable bracket is home brew job
adjuster appears to be nothing more than a couple of nuts threaded onto the cable and resting against the fork
me thinks if you had the correct bracket to mount on the transfer case, and not the home brew bracket, then cable length might be correct to where you could use the stock adjuster at the fork.
my 0.2 worth

 

Take out your cable and measure it. Refer to the website in my previous post. A friend of mine just got his replacement from them for his '70. Fit perfectly. From looking at your pics, I'd say his and yours are the same.

 

By the way, that bracket for the pedal end of the cable is stock. Check it for cracks where it is welded to the frame. They've been known to break loose there. Don't ask me how I know.