Engine test

Either way I'm not using the converter or flexplate. I'm sticking with my T18
If he doesn't want to pay for the converter and flexplate I'll just throw them in or throw them away. The converter appeared to be in good condition.

High5

 

After a long time in service, the convertor will have a lot of sediment in it. It'll probably be ok, but you always replace them in a rebuild. I certainly wouldn't pay extra for it.

Flex plates crack (and make a racket) and new ones aren't very expensive, so your buyer should use a new one.

Just FYI.

 

Yeah,

but if he wants to buy it and get it out of my garage, I will certainly allow him to

If not, I'll chuck it in the garbage.

High5

 

Caveat emptor, methinks he wants $$$ for JEEP parts!R)

 

The shops around here want $300 and any new parts are extra.

 

I have decided to throw in the converter and keep the flexplate so I can do an engine stand compression check. I'm always trying to get money out of old parts I don't want. Get's crap out of my garage and keeps the wife happy.

High5

 

I would really recommend pulling the pan and having a peek at the bearings. You don't need to pull them all, just a couple of mains and a couple rods to get an idea of the wear on the engine.

Then just check for obvious damage, bent rods etc. I can't remember if you can get a good look at the cam from the bottom on an AMC engine, but if you can, check for damaged lobes.

Like someone previously said, installing a new main seal at this point is easy.

Ideally I would pull the heads and have a look at the cylinder wear and see if there is a crosshatch on the cylinders, and if not then see how much of a ring ridge is on the cylinders.

If all looks good, then the purchase of a new gasket set is a cheap investment that will only help in the long run. If this engine has sat a long time there will be more than one leak from the old gaskets and seals.

I am not a pro engine builder, but have rebuilt more than my share of engines of all makes, and a little time and money spent now will save a lot of stress in the future.

 

Hey guys, I turned the engine over by hand today. I didn't have the sparkplugs in tight, but it sure sounded like it was at least making some compression. Turns over nicely. Also got it on the engine stand last night. That pig must be awfully heavy as the 1000 pound rated stand flexed quite a bit. I put a 2X4 and a wider board under the front of the oil pan to keep it from flexing too much. It's not denting the pan. I hope to have the garage cleaned out this weekend so I have a place to work and a place to park.... Supposed to snow tonight into tomorrow.

High5

 

Is it possible to do a compression test just by turning the engine over by hand??? Would it work the same or not??? I don't mind the arm work out if possible.

High5

 

Everytime I've asked that question of someone that I thought would know, the answer was always NO.I can remember thinking along the same line as you but never tried it. I don't think you can turn it fast enough by hand to get a consistant reading.

 

I've done this before with a boat engine, worked great. Hooked one wire up to the coil and took a set of jumper cables and attached the negative to the block and touched the positive to starter. Just make sure you tie it down to something, i didn't and the engine allmost tipped over when i bliped the throttle.