Frame Coating Ideas Needed

I've been grinding and sanding on my JEEP part time for a month now:
http://www.kcjeepclub.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=7836

I've got the tub almost ready for paint. The other day I started wire brushing the frame. Looks like some previous owner had it undercoated. I'm not sure what was used on it, some kind of Ziebart type stuff maybe. It is taking me a lot of time to grind off. I was going to take it down to metal and then paint it, but now I'm thinking I'm either going to need to pay big bucks for a shop to do blast it off, or else I need to just put another coating on it; I think painting over top of this coating with anything glossy would not look attractive.

So, I'm looking for some type of durable coating that doesn't require top coating, will spray on, has some texture to it, will rust proof over metal, and either isn't glossy or will hide over the texture already there.

You can see what I'm talking about in the pic below. Note where I've wire brushed the frame and sprayed some oxide primer on it is smooth, but check out how thick the coating is right above it (and that is actually somewhat feathered from the wire brush):

 

Clint,

I feel your pain!!!!! I just finished my frame a week ago. Fortunately I am doing a frame-off so getting around is easier, but I still ran into the same kind of junk you did and in the same area. It's really got to be difficult working with the body on the frame.

I took mine down to the metal and then put on Rust Bullet and their black top coat. It's very glossy and unless you start with a smooth surface it will not look to good. You're right in trying to find something to cover it up instead.

I know this reply didn't help much, but at least you know you were not alone in your struggle.

 

Are you leaving the tub on while doing this?

 

Trying not to, but having a hellubba time getting the rear two body bolts off.

 

I would pay to have it blasted. If it is spendy there, bring it this way. The Furd dealer did my Bantam tub for $45. The same place just did a co-workers '49 Furd rolling chassis (media blast AND paint) for $150

 

I used a propane torch to heat up the Ziebart on my Tranny cross member, then used a putty knife to scrape most of it off before finishing up with a wire wheel. Took a while but it came out, when my Siphon Draw sandblaster media just built up on it.

 

I had mine blasted for under $100 best money I spent. The problem is that is sets a standard for everything that goes back on.

 

Do you own a Sawsall?

 

I got a quote for $400 here.

Yup. Tried last weekend. Didn't have any luck with it. Blade keeps poking into the tank. Haven't had much time to mess with it this week. Going to try one more time with a higher quality blade, then moving on to the big angle grinder with cutoff wheel next.

 

what about drilling/cutting the bolt head from the top?

 

I could do a hole saw through the bed to get to the top of the bolts, but I still wouldn't be able to access the nuts inside the crossmember. I might go out and take a picture of this tonight so you guys can see what I'm talking about; I think whoever put this in was just playing some cruel trick on me the way it is boxed in.

 

Clint: keep us posted on all this! I feel like I am only a few steps behind you and learning lots from your posts. Keep the pics coming too!

 

Bump. Still looking for ideas. I haven't been able to find a real abrasive shop here in Lawrence. I could take it to the Line-X people, but I'm thinking their prices are on a different currency system or something because I'd have to take out a 2nd mortgage on the house to afford them. They tried to sell me on how it was an investment. The only other shop I know of is in Topeka. I guess I really don't want to go all the way to Manhattan, although that seems like a killer deal. If I end up not taking the frame down to bare metal, what other rubberized-type coatings do you guys have experience with that would hide over this Ziebart stuff on the frame and in the wheel wells?

 

If you want a good job and don't want to be doing this again in a few years, there's really no shortcuts. The rubberized coatings require a very clean surface w/ good bite or they will lift. I doubt if it would even stick well to another coating and I know no shop will provide any warranty that way. If I could I would take it to a commercial sandblaster, they can knock it out in no time. If however, like me, nothing commercial is available to you, and you have a sufficient compressor, the equipment to do it yourself plus the sand will run you less than $100. Its hard work and it isn't fun but the sense of accomplishment you get from doing it yourself is quite rewarding.:v6:

 

Victor Wrench for the stuck bolts.

Just a thought, don't put a bunch of thick gooey stuff on your frame like POR or Bullet or Undercoat. You want to visibly tell when a crack is starting.

 

I blasted mine in the driveway. I hated the job but the results were fantastic. I used Eastwoods three part kit. The rust converter (I swear it was just Corroseal rebagded), rust encapsulator and their chassis paint which is low gloss and looks just right. I did all this last summer and the frame is still outside in the weather with no ill effects, still looks fresh despite the tree that landed on it during a real good storm.

 

I know you mentioned that you didn't want to, but my opinion is to sandblast it, use Eastwood rust encapsulator and then spray it with chassis black . Mine was done 2 years ago this march and still loooks great.

 

If you don't want a glossy finish, and want something textured, you might try this stuff from 3M...



I've used it on frames and floorpans and it covers well, especially over places where you don't get the old paint and stuff off. The last jeep floor I did was very beat up, and this stuff made it look new by just vacuuming the dirt out and spraying it on. It's a little high at around $8-$10 per can at FLAPS, but one can goes a long way, so it might be worth a try for what it seems like you are looking for.

Just a thought...

 

I too am following with interest. I just got most everythig removed from my frame. I tried to find some one local to sand blast it , but no one wanted the job. I can buy a sand blaster from Harbor Freight for under $100 but my air compressor is pushing 20 years old.

Thought I might try Loctite Extend Rust Neruralizer. It says it converts rust, then you cover it with oil based paint. :?



As you can see... it's all rust.

Jay