Tub removal

Well, what started out as patch 'n' paint has now progressed (or digressed, depending on your point of view) into a frame off. Had I planned this from the start, I would've made better preparations. As she sits now, I've got 21gal of about fuel onboard by my math, and I believe 15 of it sits in the rear tank. I'm trying to avoid sumping the tank and dropping it, but I can't figure out how to remove the last two body bolts that are right above the rear bumper - the nuts are on the inside of the frame rail and the back side of the tank; I can't get a wrench or socket in there.

Anyone with a rear tank ever been successful at getting those two bolts out?

I tried the sawzall, but burnt through two blades and didn't make much progress to speak of, plus I'm worried about poking a hole in the tank. I might try an abrasive cutoff wheel tomorrow, unless someone has a better suggestion at how to access them.

 

Dont..... make sparks anywhere near your tank!!!
My Dad had one blow up on him no joke. He was in the hospital for weeks and rehab for months had a cast on half his body.

Draining it makes it worse because then it's fumes which are more volital.
If... you endup having to grind anything near it drain it and fill it up with water.

I dont have a rear tank so I dont know if it can come out first but that would be best.

 

I took my rear tank out once with the body on, I used a ratchet going between the rear of the body and the rear channel. Litterally just enough space in there to get the ratchet.

 

I guess if you really get in a jam you could drill a hole in the top of your cross member large enough to stick a socket with an extension through. Maybe not the best way but it would be safer than a die grinder and they would always be there for your next removal. Just a thought.

 

That sounds like an idea, but the biggest bit I've got is 1/2". Going to have to shop the hardware store tomorrow and see what a big bit is going to run. I think I'm going to need at least a 7/8" or 1" hole to get my socket in there.

I'm still having problems with this. Those two bolts are completely boxed in. The frame is on the outsides, crossmember to the rear, tank to the front, skid to the bottom, and tub on top. I started taking the skid off, and those nuts are spinning, too. I can't figure out how the thing was put together.

 

You would need a hole saw bit.

 

Go ahead and drain the tank remove it and get it out of your way
you have already wasted more time than it would have taken to do that problly ...BUT sometimes you just have to try.$.02

 

I'm thinking a 1" hole saw will make short work of this. Use plenty of oil while your drilling and run the drill slow. Heat will kill your bit. Good luck.

 

Won't work like that on a factory 70-71 rear tank. There not held in like that. You might be able to wled the nuts to the bracket but I'm not sure, I can't remember how there held in right off the top of my head. I do know that the tank can be taken out with the body on, I have done it.
In this picture which body mounts or bolts are you having problems with.
The 2 in the middle are fairly easy as they go thru the tub, the 2 outer ones pictured on mine never had nuts on them they were simply sandwiched between the body and frame.

 

That's what I'm saying... I tried taking the skid down to get to the tank, and there is a row of bolts along the back of the skid that are also boxed in - and they are spinning, too. I think I've got some non-OEM parts on there, and whoever put them on wasn't really thinking about future maintenance.

 

It's free! Took a large cut-off wheel and a lot of cussing. I normally don't like making sparks that close to the tank, but it's done. Now I just need to enlist a couple buddies to come over and help me lift it off.

 

congrats! take some pictures while your friends are removing the tub!