Saginaw with 134 F head

I would like to replace my Ross steering with a Saginaw setup. Has anyone done this one an Early cj5 with an F head?

I would like to retain the original steering colum. But I will have to clear the exhaust, motor mount, and go thru the front X-member or under it.

If any one has pics of their conversion, I would love to see them.

Thanks, Jack

 

http://www.earlycj5.com/gallery2/v/picBank/album_017/?g2_page=1

http://s6.photobucket.com/albums/y233/mcruff/Saginaw steering/

 

Power steering in the F head -- gotta love it!!

kamel

 

Just a friendly comment - the power-to-weight ratio is just that: a ratio. The smaller it gets, the more an incremental loss of power will be noticed. Power steering is a parasitic load, just like your water pump, generator and fan. Remember that you're going to take a proportionately large hit in performance with PS on a small engine... there are members with manual Saginaw setups, and they are happy with them.

 

Domino effect. I'm responding to Kamel's post.

Maybe "Saginaw" implies power to some, since that's the usual upgrade in V6 and later CJs. Clearly doesn't though. I'm sure that Kamel knows that, as do I.

 

My sagninaw swap is manual, and employs an old-style column. I didn't assemble all the parts as i took them off a jeep with a V8 conversion but here's the run down of the components:

Stock column with worm grar cut off bottom and later model spud shaft ( I think) welded on

I have two U Joints between here and the main shaft, which runs forward to a generic rag joint, and then to the box.

My rag joint is actually recessed inside the front frame crossmember to allow me to mount the box higher. I have the shaft turning on bearing welded to the frame.

Also, I had to notch the driver side motor mount and weld in some angle iron to support and allow space for the shaft.

If I can remember, I'll post a pic tomorrow.

 

Power steering or not, I would like to see how the shaft is ran to the box and how it clears the exhaust, motor mount, front X-member.
If you could dig up some F-head pics Sparky, that would be awesome.

Thanks vajeeper

 

I had a shop in Rapid City put the manual Saginaw on my '64 CJ-5 several years ago. It is better than the Ross as there are fewer moving parts. I am running 30x9.50-15 tires and a 3" lift. I think that the effort to turn the wheel is less with Saginaw system than witht the old Ross.

 

I'm just starting a power steering conversion on my ride with the four banger. I'll eventually drop in a V-6, so I figured, after much consideration, that I might as well do PS now. I'm looking at using a left-over Stewart racing pump (I just sold my dirt Modified and trailer) with a large pulley and will have to figure out how to mount it. I've got a vague plan.

I'll most likely use a Flaming River shaft, for the time savings but I also wanted turn signals, flashers and tilt. Also, with the F-head, it looks easier to move the column up on the firewall for clearance issues and run the steering shaft away from the exhaust and motor mounts.

I'm using the AA kit, again for convenience. Don't have a lot of free time these days. The AA mounting bracket doesn't allow lowering of the steering box to clear the stock cross member, so I've notched the cross member. Stayed tuned ...

Great resources on this site. As with the rest of my life, nothing off the shelf seems to work and it's good to see what others have done.

 

The AA mount has a top lip on it that rides on top of the frame rail and prevents moving the box down, which is causing my problem. I'm not sure another box would make that much difference in my case. Might help the other guy, however.

 

Thanks for the info, w3srl. I'm too cheap not to use the AA mount now that I have it. I'll just have to figure out how to make it work.

 

Here is one of the picgtures of the F head with power steering.

http://www.earlycj5.com/gallery2/v/picBank/album_017/pump+mount.jpg.html

It is from the original post in this thread -- the first picture link, go to page 2 or three of the link and there it is.

kamel

 

Just a couple thoughts.

The clearance will be different with the v6 so you might have to redue some of it later?

The box on the front of the frame is more exposed to being hit. And with big tires is hard on the frame without a brace across.

I have these parts ready to go on mine, but now, I like the setup Herm has on his web site better. Ford box inside frame behind crossmember.

http://www.hermtheoverdriveguy.com/id83.htm

This is a way smarter idea.
Not so vulnerable to being hit, no side stress next to crossmember, and short lines to pump from there.

 

Yeah, I saw the photos. Thanks. They gave me some good starting points. However, I didn't like the rerouted radiator hoses because I thought I'd keep the original radiator until I do the engine swap. I'll mock something up here shortly.

I probably will have to redo some of the steering when I do the swap but I don't think it will be a major thing. At least I hope not. :smash:

I asked Herm about using his setup with the F-head and he said it wasn't designed for that, as I recall. I did like his idea of moving the box out of harm's way but I'm not making a rock crawler, just an old, fat goat chaser/trail rig. :driving: I'll most likely shim the box up a ways (1/2") and tilt it some. Then I'll just have to watch where I'm drivin' ...