Saginaw Steering With Stock Column?

I am contemplating Saginaw steering this winter. Ross box is working well, but the whole JEEP is tore apart right now, so I figure the timing is right; lots of room to work. I've been assembling parts for many months now and have both power and manual 4 bolt boxes, various pumps, shafts, and columns to mix and match from various eras of Jeep and GM.

I would like to retain the stock dash and column. I've read about the postal column, but would like to keep my stock column if possible. Been looking at lots of pics in picture bank and member photobuckets. What I can't find is a pic of a the rag joint where a stock Ross column has been adapted to some other intermediate shaft. Anyone done such a mod and took the pics?

 

Funny, I just posted the same question 3 minutes earlier. :}

Hopefully we will get a response from someone who has done this.

 

you want to use a u-joint where the two shafts meet together.
72-75 CJs had a ujoint there, or Borgeson and others make smaller versions; 76 and later CJS had a small ujoint of sorts there.
The rag joint/bell coupler would come off the steering box stub shaft.
This gives you flex at the box.
You could use the stock column, but you will have to cut the worm off and reweld a donor splined shaft in it's place.(or maybe a slide on type with a set screw or even pinned)
This needs to be done by someone you would trust your life to.
READ: POSSIBLE LIFE THREATENING IF NOT DONE CORRECTLY !
It's what I did to my shaft.
Some folks frown on this, some states say it's illegal.
I say do what will work for you.

 

I used the stock column on my 46 2A. I basically used the Advance Adapter setup but sourced my own parts. You have to cut the worm gear off of the shaft. I got u joints and a length of double D shaft from Summit Racing. A buddy of mine made a bushing to put in the end of the column to hold the bottom of the shaft. I posted pics before but removed them due to space. I don't have them on this computer but when I get home I will post them again.

 

On second thought they are still on my PhotoBucket. I didn't realize it was set on private. It is now public for all to view.

 

There is a hypothesis that states "If 1,000 monkeys sat down to 1,000 typewriters and began punching keys, eventually one of them would come up with the Gettysburg Address." Sparky has 4,000 members. Hmmm...

Thanks for the info. I know what Jim is saying, and I've got those same apprehensions. For some reason, welding seems better to me than set screws, but maybe that's just me. Will have to ponder it some more.

Mortten, in this picture, is that a hole going all the way through the column shaft that corresponds to a matching hole in the u-joint that a bolt goes through?

 

I don't see the hole you are talking about. This pic was before I drilled it. After I mounted the column and got the u-joint where I wanted it I marked it and drilled a through hole in the shaft. The u-joint has a shoulder bolt that goes through it and the shaft. I dimpled all of the set screws and Lok-Tited them. They all had lock nuts on them which I also Lok-Tited. I checked them every 100 miles for about 1,000 miles and never had one loosen up. I check once a month out of paranoia. I may weld them some day when I have the welder out again. The Herm kit is basically what I scrounged up although my buddy went a little overboard on the bushing. What you can't see is it is also drilled for a zerk fitting to grease it. It isn't installed as of yet.

 

I'm not trying to scare you from doing it.
heck, if I didn't think mine was safe I wouldn't be driving it for all these years.
If you can't do the welding, just get a qualified person to do it for you.
I don't think running out and buying a welder and practicing on a steering shaft is a good idea, that's all. (not that you would do that)