Fender well headers

Does antone know if I put fenderwell exit headers on my 75CJ, if they clear the steering shaft or do I need to modify the headers?

 

If its the correct header(s) for that Jeep, they should fit with no mods. Mine do.

 

You will have to trim the fenders

 

Thanks for the reply. I hope it works because it sure looks close to the seering shaft. I guess I'll buy them and hope they fit.

 

I don't know much but my 5 ( 258 ) has dual outlet headers (PO) and they don't clear the steering shaft. The PO dented the 1st tube in order for the shaft to move. It barely does. While I do the steering I'm either going to a single outlet or back to the factory manifold.

 

if you come out of fender you will probably get fumes in cab.

 

When you cut out the fenders, you let a lot of mud in.

 

I just bought some headmans for my 73 with a 304 and the steering knuckle does hit one of the tubes on the header. I am going to put a 2" body lift and see if that helps my clearance issue. Any thoughts?

 

Maybe not what you want - I say avoid headers. They are a lot of trouble, especially on a Jeep. Strictly race car tech.

 

My Flow Techs miss everythang , fit is good, ofcourse you have to trim the fender. If I had to do it again I would of stuck what Tim said , keep the manifolds , headers been a pain.

 

One of the guys on our local FL bb's put on a set of Hedman's (I think they were hedmans) and they hit the steering shaft. He hammered it and beat the stew out of it and it still didn't work well.

He took them off.

I'd stay wtih stock or another company that is recommended by someone that has used one.

But as Tim said, they don't do much for a torque engine. The stock 304 manifolds work fairly well. Until you get up at high RPM's they don't help.......much.

 

My Hedman Headers dont even come close to hitting the steering shaft. There is at least 1-3 inches of clearance all around the shaft. No body lift at all, nothing custom for motor mounts as far as I can tell.
I personally love the headers on this truck. When combined with the Holley TA 4bbl carb and the glasspacks...Nothing sounds the same
Here is some crappy cell phone pics I just took.





Yea they leak a little, but the gasket finally blew out after about 100 times revving the engine past 5000 RPM and no telling how many years of use. Don't really blame it, do you? LOL

 

From what Scott told me, it seems Heddman had a stock number where the post 76 and pre 76 was mixed up. Or something like that.

Napa did the same thing on my Dodge truck. The HD version and the standard version has two sets of pads. One is thicker than the other. I always get the wrong ones and have to grind them down.

Course I have no idea how to verify which is which on the headders. But some seem to work, some don't.

 

i have to disagree... however for the sake of clearance if its for an AMC engine manifolds would suit you fine.. i have a 5.0L ford in mine so manifolds just arent an option. after tons of research i found advance adapters has an excellent selection of headers for several CJ/engine combinations. they also GUARANTEE they will fit your application or they will take them back.

why fenderwell dumps? thats the first thing i got rid of when i started my rebuild. full-length in-frame exhaust is tight but i can make it happen.

 

Yes, I've seen several Intermediate CJs with full-length in-frame dual exhaust. Quite do-able.

Also, depending on the type of terrain you drive in, the exhaust takes a lot of abuse on a Jeep. When I lived in CA, i drove in rocky stream beds and over alluvial fans with big rocks quite often, and the (factory) exhaust was always getting banged up. I went through a couple of tailpipes and mufflers on my '73 just due to trail damage. Headers are not as strong as cast iron manifolds, and will be expensive to replace if damaged. Plus the flange is right down between the chassis rails, where it's vulnerable. The iron manifold flanges are up higher, and only pipe is exposed to damage. Ideally you want an exhaust system that's mounted up high, and which bolts together so you can replace the tailpipe and/or muffler when they get smashed.

If you run on sand or in mud, headers might make sense, but I think for trail riding you can spend your money better on other items. JMO.

 

I kept my old manifolds just in case. I mainly run in the sand at South Core Banks, NC. Thanks for the input, ya'll.

 

headers also dont have to be full-length.. i bet probbaly 1/2 of the purpose-built headers on the market right now are "shortie" type that arent much longer than manifolds. the days of dragging low-hanging headers over things are gone.