Frustrating Brakes!

I am so utterly frustrated with brakes on my 68 CJ5. I considered rolling it into the back yard and using it to build a fire with. Watching it burn to the ground right now would almost be satisfing. Anyways, to get to the point.. The brakes have always been pretty bad ever since I got it a few months ago. I figured I would address it while installing the lift kit. I started with the front axle.. Durring the lift spring install I found that the wheel cylinders were only pushing from one side. I bought new shoes and wheel cylinders along with drums. Finished the front today and had the wife help me bleed them. I took it down the road and was suprised to find that the brakes really are no better!! It would take me 100 yards to stop from 40! This was dissapointing. I figured I would get some results from doing the fronts seeing on conventional cars the front brakes is 75% of the braking.. The pedel still feels a little mooshy but not real bad. I planed on moving on to the rear this week but have lost motivation seeing that I seemed to have wasted the last week working on the fronts. How often do the brake master cylinders go bad? The lines really dont look that bad, could they be swelling on the inside? Any insight would be great before I push this thing down a hill.. Thanks and sorry about the book I just wrote..R)

 

When I got mine, I put a new MC on, replaced the rubber hoses and blew all the old fluid out of the hard lines. Also under the pivots for the brake shoes (9" brakes) put anti seize so it wouldnt try and rust together anymore if it sits for a while. After doing that the brakes are good. I can lock up all 4 tires if I need to. Which is kind of fun b/c people assume 9" brakes are horrible.

 

While I was reading your post I was thinking what you posted there right at the end. Yes the lines can and will swell on the inside, not allowing much fluid to flow. If they are original it would be smart to change them.

How does the master cylinder look? Do you have any fluid on the firewall? Is there any sludge in the resevoir?

And of course just make sure the brakes are adjusted up properly and that you don't have any air in the lines.

 

When I bought my 65 cj5 a month or so ago I had the garage I was buyin it from just replace all 4 wheel cylinders, all the lines and the master cylinder as well as new shoes all around. The reason.. At least I can stop. From 50 mph I can stand on the brakes and lock up all 4R) get squirrely but stops faster than any car I've had.
The reason I said this is..don't beat yourself up, just replace all the crap then you have the peace of mind that you can stop.
Bleeding done easy, crack all 4 bleeders and put a hose on each one to a container, then relaxe drink a beer and just dump about 2 quarts into the system then close all 4. Thats what the mechanic did on mine and no problems, takes about an hour,( just bench bleed the master cylinder first) Hope this helped at all.

 

Yea, I know you guys are right but I was trying to do things right but keep to a budget seeing that the wife is watching!R)

I guess new lines and MC are next after I do the rear suspension..

 

Whats this budget you speak of? Jeep rule #436 is throw the budget out the window because you won't even keep close to it.

 

Do it step by step, unless you know the lines are in bad shape, Id just get a new MC to start. Reason being is you can change it out easily and the jeep wont be down long to replace. Plus its cheaper than a brake line kit

 

Personally, I would do all of it if possible, especially the fluid and the rubber hoses. I'd at least blow out the steel lines with compressed air too. And look 'em all over real close for kinks or smashed steel lines. Considering those parts are 38 years old, if everything's still original.

I consider brakes at the top of my "important stuff" list. Steering is #2.

 

When I got my "69 I had to change everything but the drums and shoes. The master cyl. and new brakes lines made the biggest difference in brake function. I got pretty good at making brakes lines.

Brakes have turned out to be one of the least expensive things I have done - after I bought the new MC. If I had to break the budget, I'd do it on brakes. It's nice to be able to stop.

 

That's my point exactly ...gettin er going is easy and the fun part. If you can't stop.. then it sucks pretty bad.
Don't skimp on brakes!

 

There's nothing like the feeling of terror as you're hurtling towards something with your foot pounding the brake pedal against the floor.

 

Is there a way to test the MC to see if it is functioning properly? When I bleed the brakes, the fluid does seem to flow pretty good out the bleeders so I am not sure the lines are swelled. There are no visable leaks from the MC either. The seal on the top cover of the MC looks a little shotty I am considering changing it.. Could old nasty fluid cause this? I would think fluid is fluid old or new it wont compress but I guess I could be wrong??

 

X2 I agree Totaly!!!

 

My favorite mod to date:

Doing this cost me about the same money as fixing drums:

 

Your not wrong about the brake fluid. It should be changed and flushed if you have any doubt. As far as the lines you have to remember that when your bleeding the brakes there is no resistance so the flow will seem O.K. If you have the original rubber hoses or your not sure you need to replace them.

Also you should definately replace the MC cap seal if your not gonna replace the MC itself.

 

Don't worry about it, brakes are overrated.
Seriously just replace it all, my MC was the big problem though!

 

Yes, brake fluid definitely can go bad! It will absorb moisture, for one, causing mucho lovely rust in your cylinders and lines. I've also heard it can "boil" at high altitudes, but I'm not sure about that. I've had brake shops tell me it should be flushed and replaced every 35,000 miles or so, but that might just be a revenue-generating trick on their part too. We have several pro mechanics here that will certainly know more about this subject than me.

 

You are right but it doesn't need to be at high altitude to boil.

 

Before you go out and buy a new master cylinder, take your old one apart and inspect it...it's dirt cheap to rebuild one. As long as the bore is in good shape, there's no reason not to do it. I've done a bunch of them over the years, and they're really pretty easy. If the bore is pitted, I'd just toss it and get a new one. I'd bet the only tool you need is a pair of snap ring pliars. If you get really ambitious you can strip the housing and paint it with some nice cast-iron grey paint and make it look all purdy. Just don't spill your brake fluid on it if you do .