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Initial Inspection brings up some questions

Discussion in 'Early CJ5 and CJ6 Tech' started by dauntless_powered, Sep 25, 2006.

  1. Sep 25, 2006
    dauntless_powered

    dauntless_powered SUB COB 2024 Sponsor

    Groton, CT
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    I started pulling things apart today, and I have take some pics of a couple things I need to ask. Before I get into those I have a Carb/Engine Question:

    When the Jeep is cold I need to pull the choke all the way out to get it to start ( I figure thats normal) however once it warms up it backfires when i get on the gas if i leave the choke out. If i push the choke in and get on the gas it stumbles real bad to the point of stalling out. There is some minor surface rust in the bottom of the carb, so I plan on rebuilding/cleaning it out right away. Also the plugs need changed real bad. I am assuming that my stumbling problem is due to the dirty/old carb and plugs am i correct? I have poured some seafoam into the carb and gas so we will see how that does. Ok here goes my other questions with pics:

    [​IMG]

    What are the three nipples i have labled 1,2 and 3 in this pic. I know one should be water temp and one should be oil pressure, but which is what and why three of them?

    Also on the back of the carb there is a large outlet type pipe coming out with this black rubber cap on it- labled #4, what is it?

    [​IMG]

    what is this "horn" shaped metal pipe coming up in this pic? my 70 did not have this.

    [​IMG]

    what is this capped rubber tubing coming out of the cover? can i just put breather caps on both manifold covers? one has this hose coming out of it, the other has a hose going to teh airfilter. cant i just cap them with breather covers? i guess thats it for now, thanks in advance i realize these were a lot of silly questions? just trying to get back in the game its been awhile since i was under the hood of one of these.

    here is one last pic of how she sits while i type this:
    [​IMG]
     
  2. Sep 25, 2006
    CD60

    CD60 Member

    Northern California
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    O.K. I'll try and answer a few of these. Numbers 1 and 3 look like they're screwed into the intake runners so those should be vacuum sources, kind of hard to see. Number two looks like the water temp sender. Not sure about number 4 can't really see it.

    The horn shaped thing on the exhaust manifold is for the air cleaner or an old air cleaner. There should be a metal hose going from there to the bottom of the air cleaner. Helps during cold start up.
     
  3. Sep 25, 2006
    jeepfreak81

    jeepfreak81 When in Doubt, Pedal out!

    Owosso, MI
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    yep and it could be part of the stumbling problem if it's real cold out in itself
     
  4. Sep 25, 2006
    mortten

    mortten I can’t put my finger on it 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    Peninsula, Ohio
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    #2 is where the heater hose attached. Looks like someone bushed it down for a sender. Maybe for an aftermarket guage. The OEM sender is on the front right of the intake manifold. 1 & 3 are vacuum connections probably for the heater controls. If they are open that's a direct leak which would run very poorly. #4 I can't tell. The horn in the second pic looks like a preheater for the aircleaner. A hose would go from there to the air cleaner. The last one looks like the wrong grommet for the PVC valve or maybe the wrong valve and grommet. Any vacuum leak will cause bad running.
     
  5. Sep 25, 2006
    dauntless_powered

    dauntless_powered SUB COB 2024 Sponsor

    Groton, CT
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    ok...its about 70 here so being cold isnt really an issue. the only hose from the aircleaner is going to the hole in the manifold cover on the drivers side.

    as far as 1 and 3 being vacuum hoses, there was a broken off "wire" that was covered in rubber that was kinda hanging on to number 3... dont see any missing vaccuum lines, but that doesnt mean anything either.....could a vacuum leak be causing my stumbling, what about timing? i am picking up my gun tonight from a buddy. The plugs were real dark and wet, i cleaned them off, but that didnt help any...you could tell the plugs are kinda old...new plugs will be coming soon
     
  6. Sep 25, 2006
    dauntless_powered

    dauntless_powered SUB COB 2024 Sponsor

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    thanks mortten!! i dont have a heater so that could be my problem then...can i just cap 1,2,and 3...with some kind of rubber fitting then? i will get a better picture of 4.......
     
  7. Sep 25, 2006
    CD60

    CD60 Member

    Northern California
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    A vacuum leak will definately cause the engine to run rough. With it idling you can put you hand over the top of the carb. If the engine speeds up and smooths out then it's running lean. That could be a vacuum leak or carb out of adjustment.

    You can go ahead and cap any fittings your not using. Won't hurt anything.
     
  8. Sep 25, 2006
    dauntless_powered

    dauntless_powered SUB COB 2024 Sponsor

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    alright here is a closer pic of that black rubber cap on that back of the carb. if you pull the cab off the engine dies right away

    [​IMG]
     
  9. Sep 25, 2006
    CD60

    CD60 Member

    Northern California
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    Looks like a vacuum source for power brake unit.
     
  10. Sep 25, 2006
    dauntless_powered

    dauntless_powered SUB COB 2024 Sponsor

    Groton, CT
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    okay...well it seems capped, so i guess all is good........ i gotta run to try and get my buddies blazer running tonight...i will try and cap those fittings and see what happens with the motor tomorrow...thnaks there will be more questions i promise :(
     
  11. Sep 25, 2006
    w3srl

    w3srl All-around swell dude Staff Member

    Port Orange, FL
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    I'm with Mortten here Erik.

    The fact that you have to pull the choke out to get it to run says "vacuum leak" all over it. #1 looks like a nice open vacuum port into the manifold. Pull that puppy and put a threaded pipe plug in the hole with sealer. #3 right next to that big vacuum port on the back of the carb is a crimped off vacuum line that may be leaking. Pull that fitting and put a pipe plug in its place with some sealer.

    As for the choke stove/preheater, that sure is the mark of a later-model engine than a Dauntless. Those came into use in the very late 60's and early 70's for emissions, and I can't remember ever seeing one on a 225. Also, the PCV valve on the valve cover instead of the back of theintake manifold seems to indicate a later engine.

    I think I'd check the casting numbers to see what animal you really have there before you start buying parts for it. That, and pull the distributor cap to see if it really is an odd-fire engine or not.
     
  12. Sep 25, 2006
    jayhawkclint

    jayhawkclint ΜΟΛΩΝ ΛΑΒΕ

    Oklahoma City, USA
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    #3 went to the stock heater on my '70 before I removed it for power brakes.
     
  13. Sep 25, 2006
    beeser

    beeser Member

    Arizona
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    Connection for the anti-backfire valve. I think most people remove it and plug the opening as in your case when the smog equipment is removed.
     
  14. Sep 25, 2006
    Zoomer

    Zoomer eJeeper (walking)

    Minnesota
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    Pretty sure all the 225's with the paper element air cleaner had the preheat pipe. Here's a picture from the parts manual:

    [​IMG]
     
  15. Sep 25, 2006
    MOP

    MOP Active Member

    Pullman, WA
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    I'm with Steve..plug 1, 2, and 3 with threaded plugs and sealer. I would get a 90 degree fitting without the extra outlet for number 4. I would also get the appropriate sized grommet and a new pcv valve, and lose the extra tubing/grommet on the p/s valve cover.
     
  16. Sep 25, 2006
    w3srl

    w3srl All-around swell dude Staff Member

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    :oops: <kicking toe in the dirt>
     
  17. Sep 25, 2006
    jeep1970

    jeep1970 New Member

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    The big black rubber thing on the back of the carb is for the smog pump. I just plugged mine when I took off the smog. The small nipples are for vacum line for smog stuff. Just put brass plugs in the holes and you dont have to worry about leaks. The larger nipple is one of the heater lines if you have one. Just cap off if you dont have a heater. The deal on the exhaust manifold provides hot air to the carb. Could give you problems with ice in your carb. when its real cold outside. Good luck
     
  18. Sep 25, 2006
    Mcruff

    Mcruff Earlycj5 Machinist

    Albertville, AL
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    The temp sender is right for a 71 model Dauntless. The factory sender for the 71 is mounted there with the heater hose mounted in the front like yours is! On my 71 model the vacuum line on the drivers side is for the heater the other one was plugged.
     
  19. Sep 25, 2006
    dauntless_powered

    dauntless_powered SUB COB 2024 Sponsor

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    so what i am hearing is plug 1-3 with a threaded insert, pull off number 4 and find a better way to plug that up also. New PCV valve and hoses (i am replacing all hoses under the hood anyway) Now I may be crazy, but i can not find the inlets for the oil pressure or temp gage anywhere? I may just be blind tonight. So what can i do with the hose on the driver side cover that goes to the air filter...i am putting a K&N on eventually, can I just put a breather cap on that side? Thanks guys a ton of good info in just a few hours as always. Check the VIN info post for all the casting and serial numbers i put up.
     
  20. Sep 25, 2006
    MOP

    MOP Active Member

    Pullman, WA
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    I am not saying plug number 4, I would get somthing like one of these instead:

    [​IMG]



    breather cap should do the trick
     
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