Snorkel questions

Hi all

I need your ideas. I think something happen to my engine last weekend with the watercrossing I made during the trail. First, what is needed to waterproof the ignition, and second, did everyone here ever built some sort of snorkel to fit into this kind of engine compartement ?

As usual, thanks to all

Bob in Sherbrooke, Province of Québec

 

If water crossings are in your future, do a Taurus fan conversion, with a toggle switch on the dash to kill the fan relay before going in.

I put a snorkle on my CJ, but really haven't done much to waterproof the HEI,etc yet. It's more insurance against hydrolocking and busting a rod, rather than to keep running in the water if I should find a deeper than expected hole.

 

Thanks all

maybe I did not express myself right in the first post, I was distracted at home, and it did not came out as I tought. I don't want to build a submarine, just avoid water-related problem.

I already putted the dielectric grease of all wires. But why does the cap need a vent ? Is this not supposed to work all sealed off ?

Oh and I like the idea of a baffle in front of the cap and maybe I'll put a baffle in front of the air intake, just so that I don't spray water directly inside. This was the intent purpose of the snorkel.



Other ideas ?


Bob in Sherbrooke

 

Forget those cheaply made restricting snorkels.

Get a carb riser and a velocity stack and cut a hole in your hood.
Weld together a scoop and put it on your hood.

I have had water up to the top my headlights with no problem.






Unless you are one of those OEM guys.
My jeep is for one thing. To live ! Not a trailer queen !

 

You guys aren't thinking. The army already figured this one out. It's called a M38-A1. It has all the waterproofing you need.

One thing most people don't think about when submerging is the clutch problems. Water gets between the clutch plate and causes friction problems. The M-series jeeps have positive pressure fittings that come off the exaust and run to the transmission, transfer case, front end, rear end, and bell housing. What this means is that when it goes underwater, it has higher pressure than the surrounding water causing bubbles, which gets around making all this stuff watertight, but makes it waterproof. This is along with a waterproof distributor, wiring, sparkplugs, disengaging fan, and snorkel. The only problem is that the M-Series stuff is 24 volt.

I guess what I am getting at is that if you can find a junked out M-38 or A1, you can probably get all this stuff, ...or most of the important stuff...and as for the electrical, just silicone the He** out of it.

 

You can get a plenum from K&N and use a MAF mount to go through the firewall, then hook a K&N filter on it. I didn't go with a high external snorkel because my MSD ignition, timing computer, and EFI ECM are all under dash.....and if they go swimming . Spray silicone sealer and weather-pack connectors work well for the electrical connections.

 

But then, you are feeding your engine stinky feet air. Wait are you getting a few extra HP that way? R)

Really a sweet set up.

 

A cool alternative to the vent is a vac line. I had the dubious honor of owning not one but two Nissan Patrols. Both of these rigs had a restricted vac line running through the dist to a clean air source in the air cleaner. Actually a simple set up. If your carb is running a heat riser choke, then it gets even simpler, as you only need to plumb the dist in the cold air side of the heat riser.

 

I used to run this setup. The airfilter noise is annoying and if you like steep hillclimbs, it might leak gas into the passenger compartment via the airfilter.

 

I didn't really notice it to be annoyingly loud after putting on the throttle body injection. TBI takes the fuel slosh problem out of the picture also.

I keep forgetting people still have carburators R)