best way to patch rust

Hey, my sister just picked up a CJ5 thats in pretty good shape. I fixed pretty much everything for it to pass inspection in a few days, all thats left is the body. Its got a bit of rust. I actually like the rust, so I was thinking just silicone caulk pieces of tin over it, go to a hack job inspection place, then pull the tin off when I get home. That way I wouldn't even have holes from rivets or metal screws. My friend said use aluminum tape, thats what everyone uses.??? There are a couple spots on the side that are bubbled up pretty bad, but I can grind them down and cover them or patch them (using aluminum tape or body filler? i don't know!). The main concern is the floor in the tool box is completly gone, meaning the frame mount is floating in air, and so it the same mount on the drivers side. I was thinking just screw in sheet metal or tin to cover it up so they can't see. Honestly, the body is solid and I like the way it looks, I just need it to pass inspection in a quick. I don't want to cut or weld and I rather not get into riveting. Whats the best way to patch rust? Aluminum tape, body filler, pieces of sheet metal screwed on, etc? Any advice would be great!!!

 

Those two statements don't belong together.

 

If you want to just stick another piece over the rusty spots, at very least use some sort of rust converter first. And DON'T use silicon caulk, some of them are slightly acidic, so you'll only be adding to problem. Rust convert first, then glue on the cover panel with windshield adhesive. Make sure that's how you want to do it, 'cuz that's probably as permanent as welding....

 

Duct tape fixes anything

 

well, i just need this to pass inspection, i actually like the random rust spots. I was thinking cover it with steel just to pass then pull it off. if anything i could sheet metal screw it on, but I was thinking an adhesive would be better. what about rtv sealant? that sounds good, I think I'm going with it. my friend told me about aluminum tape tho. he said everyone uses it to patch rust. what do you think about aluminum tape?

 

Do what a lot of people do. Bolt on diamond plate. Thats if there is enough metal to bolt to.R)

 

there certainly is enough metal, but i don't like the look of diamond plate, plus its waaayy to expensive. has anyone heard of this so called aluminum tape?

 

Don't know about "patching" rust, but you can find an aluminum tape in the heating/cooling ductwork section of your local hardware store. Seriously, it's gonna be strictly cosmetic.....

 

I've heard of alumatape,matter of fact have used it at work quite frequently, never thought of it to patch rust holes I suppose it would work its quite adhesive and its pretty firm im just not sure why you are worried about covering rust for an inspection, does this mean that all cars were you live are in prestine condition? you talk about the tool box being gone well tin tape isnt gonna help a body mount so im kinda confused on this one.

 

Well there are some rust holes in the fenders and such, probable about 2inches by 2 inches at the biggest. if they don't have a problem with that, then geeze, my life just got a little easier. as far as the tool box, I just got in from that. I pulled a chunck of tin off the walls in my workshop (used to be a chicken coupe in the 1800's). I cut it 24"x30", folded up all the sides to make a tray, dropped it in the tool box, riveted it all along the sides, put a screw through the body mount. Not a very effecient body mount but a great bottom to a tool box, and looks awsome for inspection.

 

JMO - I'd give up on the idea of removing the patch after passing inspection. If it were mine, and I wanted to patch it up, I'd stabilize the rust with an anti-rust paint like Eastwood Rust Encapsulator, POR-15 or Rust Bullet, then glue and pop-rivet patches over the holes. It'll last for a while.

 

ok, that sounds good. do I have to remove all the rust? or just grind it down smooth and coat it?

 

With the urethane paint, (as above), you need to remove the loose rust, but the rust that's still attached to the remaining metal can remain. These moisture cured urethanes (MCUs) will seal in the rust and draw moisture from the metal, stabilizing the rust.