hotrod 4cyl possible?

Yeah but this way you can get to 60mph MUCH faster

 

Well, "low end power" is sort-of a contradiction in terms - you should have more power as the engine turns faster, since power goes like torque*RPM. With a flat torque curve, the power just keeps increasing until something blows up. In reality, you start to run out of power when the torque curve starts to fall off, somewhere before 4000 RPM for most modern street engines.

With the 134, there's lots of torque at low RPMs, but the torque starts to fall off after 2200 RPM, so even if you run up to its red line at 4000 RPM, there's not a great increase in power. I'd think you could adjust that by changing the cam in particular - usually a cam with a short duration makes more torque, but poops out as the RPMs increase. I'd imagine that the intake is restrictive too, being cast into the head (for the F4) - but I don't know if the cam or the intake is more limiting. You should be able to overcome the restrictive intake, especially at lower speeds, by pressurizing the intake. If the turbo runs fast enough, the boost will come on at low speeds and will increase the power without needing a lot of additional speed from the engine.

 

Not exactly hot rodding...http://www.film.queensu.ca/CJ3B/Tech/KamunenEngine.html

 

Pffft. I’ve had the Corveep up past 115 MPH, and it’ll run past 60 like it’s nothing. 3rd gear in my SM420 is generally good for ‘bout anything from 5 MPH to over 70.
Not that I’d recommend that for everyone, mind you. R)

 

I do tend to leave those sway bars disconnected on mine though. She gets a wee bit tipsy past 70.

 

I cruise mine at 75+ on the interstates quite regularly, goes straight as an arrow. I redlined the 283 in 4th gear direct once just to see if I could do it...the speedometer went all the way and had come back up around again. It still felt pretty stable...

 

Hey all, I didn't intend to change the conversation on the topic.... Let's hear more on beefing up the performance of the F head 134....

The last thing I'll say about stability at higher speeds is.... just wear your seat belt cause short wheel based vehicles tend to flip and it doesn't take much to do it at higher speeds.

 

You know, Jeep made a higher compression F-134 for high altitudes

If you had one of those rebuilt I wonder how it it would perform.

These engines were painted yellow from the factory.

 

A hi compression f4 is relative, at 7.4:1 I don't hink anybody else would term it hi compression.

 

look, get a garrett draw through turbo setup like on the buick v6 around 79-84ish time from. these had a 4bbl that sat on a plate and the turbo drew from it. when the gas atomized, it got real cold which means you wont need an intercooler. all you do is change the internals of the turbine area so it spools up faster (less exhaust on the 4 cyl) and itll boost at around 1500 rpm and run stable at about 7-8 psi (stock setup on these).
these turbo's can be bought on ebay for around $100 or so. thats where i bought mine. the reason the 4 cyl wont wind up has alot to do with not being able to flow larger quantities of air. turbo will change that big time. all you would need to do would be to manufacture a plate to bolt the turbo inlet up too and route your exhaust. wouldnt be TOO difficult, i mean you do have alot of unused room in there right? if it has steels rods and whatnot, itll take a good amount of beating (i wouldnt go too high on the rpm, but 4000 wont hurt it i wouldnt imagine).
you would still keep your lower end torque, but once your turbo spooled, you'd gain mucho power. have someone make some 7:1's or 8:1's and boost the crap out of it.. 0=)
1. make sure you ring lands are wide enough to support the added pressure in the cylinders or you will smash the power ring into the secondary ring.
2. make sure your cam doesnt have exhaust/intake overlap (or very much of it)
3. make sure you bring a broom with you to sweep the parts off the hyway if you get carried away. 0=)

 

I'd disagree about RPM on the 134 being limited primarily by the intake. The 134 has a very long stroke and this makes the piston velocities quite high near the red line. I thought (and it makes sense to me) that the rod bearings will be at risk above red line because of the forces from the high piston velocity. Jim (jpflat2a) insists that the 134 can thrive at highway speeds (between 3000-4000 RPM) if in good condition, and I believe him. However, I think that all bets are off above 4000 RPM.

 

The flywheel and the fact that this little motor has a longer stroke (4.375") and rods than 99% of the big blocks ever made is mainly what keeps it from revving. Better breathing would help, a paxton supercharger would do more for this little motor than anything. You wouldn't have to worry about lag, or spool up time. It would simply have more power from idle to whatever redline it has. Turbo's are great but they produce heat and large quantities of it, not really what you want creeping thru the woods. A turbo would be utterly useless on a jeep at under 1500rpm no matter how well the turbo is matched to the motor. Polish the chambers, do a little port matching and clean up, put a header on it a better carb, electronic ignition and a Paxton and you would have a very practical setup that should easily make a 100hp and lots of torque.

 

agreed on the paxton. they make a great blower. i was thinking $$ wise. i have never priced a centrifugal blower on ebay. it deffinately would do better in this situation than a turbo.
prolly be better to just put in a v-motor whether a 6 or 8 and go with that over the 4. or build a hotrod and keep the jeep to creep in.