Temp Gauge and Charging Circuit

Gentlemen and Ladies

Maybe the gurus on this forum can can give me a clue where I've gone wrong.
r.e. '59 CJ5 F134

Problem 1 -- Temp Guage
Installed a new guage (old guage would not work). Started the engine, let it warm up. Guage read 280 deg... horrors. But, the radiator did not boil over, nor did the engine feel any hotter than normal. After letting it cool down, restarted the engine and watched the radiator until I saw the thermostat open (180 deg). Temp guage showed 280. Had an extra (new) sender, so using a jumper wire to the guage I stuck it in the radiator. Still reading 280. Any ideas? Did I miss something? The sender is located at the rear right side of the head (which is the stock location I believe). Should I change the location to the front of the head just above the water pump (where it was originally)? My inspection of the head when it was apart showed no apparant blockage, so I'm buffaloed.

Problem 2 -- Charging Circuit
The Amp guage was also blotto. I switched to a volt meter, which took that guage out of the charging circuit. Problem is I get no indication that the generator is charging.
Unhooked the ARM terminal on the generator. Voltage measures about 14V, thus I have to assume the generator is working. Voltage regulator is new, and every test I've run shows it to be working properly.
Read every manual I have (FSM, Chiltons and Motor) and I'm still lost.
Wire diagram -- http://www.smithfamilycolorado.com/SmittysWillys/1959CJ5/WireDiagram.jpg
Apparantly I have a later version of the solenoid that has an "I" and "S" terminal, as opposed to the single "S" terminal shown in the FSM. The question is, how should the voltage regulator be wired without an ammeter in the circuit?

Your assistance is appreciated.

-- Smitty

 

I recommend a Mechanical Gadge-- you have some kind of electrical problem. A Mechanical will not allow you electrical problem to give you an inaccurate temp reading. I find 280 degrees hard to believe--


Is your Jeep 12 volts? if so---
Next I recommend you install a "one-wire" delco alternator. This will simplify your electrics. No external regulator.

http://www.film.queensu.ca/CJ3B/Alternator.html

 

does the temp sender go to 280 when just the key is turned on (engine off)?
or does it gradually keep climbing as the engine warms up ?
have you made sure you have a good ground to the cluster ?

the voltmeter won't show charging + or- like the amp gauge did; just system voltage

 

A little egg on me face.

Problem 1 - Temp Gauge.
Double and triple checked ground and other connections using jumper wires and continuity testing. All connections are good. When the key is turned on, the guage jumps to about 40 deg, then slowly increases as the engine warms. At about 280 the thermostat opens. Thinking the gauge is bad, I discussed with my FLAPS and they will replace it with another.

Problem 2 -- Charging Circuit.
I must have had a brain fart. I was looking at the wrong scale on my volt meter (my only excuse is it's a new meter which I'm not used to, and the two I drank out of frustration). The generator is putting out 12V, not 14. But, it is producing voltage. Guess I'll have to invest in a working ammeter to make a bench tester to resolve the issue.
I forget to mention, I unhooked the battery with the engine running. The engine died. Since the generator is putting out voltage, the engine should have continued to run. Which leads me to believe I still have not wired correctly.
I am aware that an alternator is an alternative, but I want to stick with the original generator on this one.

Call it nostalgia. Thanks for the replies.

Smitty

 

Re: Temp Gauge and Charging Circuit - Resolution

Problem 1 - Temp Gauge
New guage plus different short block (more on that below) and temperature is reading accurately now. It boiled over slightly from under the radiator cap ("newer" 7 lb with the pressure release tab) when it warmed up the first time. I let it cool, put the original cap (4 lb) back on and all was normal after that. The final test will be to top off the coolant and see if it stays normal.

Problem 2 -- Charging Circuit.
Took the generator to a repair shop. Checked out okay. Nice folks, all it cost me was transport to get it there and back. After questioning the GOB (good old boy) I determined that I polarized the voltage regulator incorrectly (either I fooled with the wiring after I polarized, or I did not have all the wiring attached correctly -- one or both were the culprits). That, and I realized I had put a second connection on the ARM that was not required. Installed the generator, polarized the VReg properly and it started charging on the second warm up (13.5 volts on the volt meter).

I also learned something new. A quick test to determine if a generator is working. Put it in a vice. Using jumper cables to a battery connect positive to ARM and ground to ground. The generator should start "motoring" on its own. Then if you jumper from ARM to FLD the generator should bog down. The only information you do not know at that point is how many volts/amps it's putting out. If I have this wrong or backwards please let me know.

At the same time I was having the above problems, I found my engine repair was not successful. The engine still had a very slight rod knock, and the transmission-to-transfer case seal was leaking. So I pulled and prepped the engine from the parts jeep and resealed the tranny while it was out. The only issue I have now is an oil pressure question, but that's for another thread.

I also updated the wiring diagram referenced below. See http://www.smithfamilycolorado.com/SmittysWillys/1959CJ5/WireDiagram.jpg The only thing that will change is I will remove the power point from the fuse box and power it from the ACC terminal on the ignition with a 20 amp inline fuse. That way I can have power without having to start the engine, and have the option to back feed from a solar charger.

Sorry, no updated pictures yet. I'm delaying more pictures until I get the body painted.

-- Smitty

 

the coolant level may not stay at/to the bottom of the cap opening. When warm, it will expand and push some coolant out; this is normal.
Don't be surprised if the level drops an inch or two before it stabilizes itself. I would run the 7lb cap if the choice were mine, without the lever.
Nice going on figuring out the wiring and charging system; I can see the smile on your face from here!